Lets play guess that sound!

[Mattc2066]

Sounds advanced to me and interesting to hear that it’s clattering all over that’s why I asked about pinpointing. In your one pic it looks like the one set of scribe marks is like a dime and a half towards the passenger. Turn that back to where they are lined up and see if it changes the sound. I’ve turned my IP on one of my engines like two dimes passenger side to see what it sounds like at different points and it sounded similar. That was before I got a meter. You need someone with a meter.

so i got the calipers out, the big scribe marks on the side of the pump are 5mm retarded and the small ones at the top are 3.26mm advanced

 

[hacked89]

so i got the calipers out, the big scribe marks on the side of the pump are 5mm retarded and the small ones at the top are 3.26mm advanced

Yep that's what I'm saying line up the small ones at the top and see if it changes the noise.

 

[Mattc2066]

so today I tried adjusting the IP, I lossened all 3 bolds competely and it will only move about 1 mm in either direction. No matter how much pressure I put on it with a wrench on the lug it will not move any more than that, so I moved it as much as it will go in both directions, tighten it back down and run it, no change in the knock but moving it as far as it will go toward the driver side did make it run slightly smoother going down the road so if I can figure out how to get it to move more maybe it will help. I took a video again of how the knock goes away after a run on the highway. here it is. listen to both videos and you can clearly hear how before a highway run it knocks and clacks but after its smooth and quiet for a few miles untill it slowly comes back.

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[hacked89]

You have to loosen some of the injector lines to get it to turn further. Glad it got smoother.

 

[Mattc2066]

You have to loosen some of the injector lines to get it to turn further. Glad it got smoother.

do I just need to back them off a few threads?

 

[gnathv]

Yes, loosen them all, including center

 

[Mattc2066]

okay so i can not rely on the marks that are on the pump. I got it all loose and lined up the marks and it smoked white and ran like absolute crap. so I moved it back to where it was plus about 1mm more of advance and the knock is almost gone. so my problem is that its timed to retarded not too advanced. still needs another mm or 2 of advance to completely get rid of the knock. once knock is gone I will leave it there until I find someone local with a meter to get it perfect.

 

[hacked89]

Too retarded smoking white makes sense. Kinda interesting to me that you needed more advance based on how it sounded in the video but glad playing with the timing fixed it for you.

 

[Jim993]

Diesels take a long time to warm up because the pump air wide open, no throttle blades restricting flow, especially in winter and if you are using cabin heat. You will see cross country truckers with canvas covers over their radiators in winter to keep engine/ coolant temperatures up. 185- 190 F sounds fine especially for December. I replaced three thermostats in my first couple of years of ownership before I figured that out.

The only way to be sure about timing is to go to a diesel shop that has a timing device for diesels.

On the cold knock question, does the engine exhibit typical cold knock or rattle then quiet down after the cold timing advance solenoid trips off? see the post below, some things to check. If the cold advance does not trip off the engine will be noisy.

For whatever it is worth, the sounds on your tape seem typical to me and I have run my truck 125,000 of the 267,000 on it, both NA and with the Banks turbo, and two different engines.

But get the timing accurately measured and set with a proper instrument and confirm that the cold idle solenoid is working.

Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI

www.intellidog.com

 

[Mattc2066]

Diesels take a long time to warm up because the pump air wide open, no throttle blades restricting flow, especially in winter and if you are using cabin heat. You will see cross country truckers with canvas covers over their radiators in winter to keep engine/ coolant temperatures up. 185- 190 F sounds fine especially for December. I replaced three thermostats in my first couple of years of ownership before I figured that out.

The only way to be sure about timing is to go to a diesel shop that has a timing device for diesels.

On the cold knock question, does the engine exhibit typical cold knock or rattle then quiet down after the cold timing advance solenoid trips off? see the post below, some things to check. If the cold advance does not trip off the engine will be noisy.

For whatever it is worth, the sounds on your tape seem typical to me and I have run my truck 125,000 of the 267,000 on it, both NA and with the Banks turbo, and two different engines.

But get the timing accurately measured and set with a proper instrument and confirm that the cold idle solenoid is working.

Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI

www.intellidog.com

so the high idle is not even hooked up. I noticed that while doing the timing. it is unplugged and never activates. it looks to me like someone also moved it back by loosening the mount bolts, pulling it back away from the "throttle" linkage and tightened back down. so I assume that it was probably stuck on. I will mess with that when the local rain stops because I would like to have high idle for warming it up in the morning or to switch the high idle to run compressors and things like that. the reason I asked about cold knock is because after a highway run (close to or right at 3k RPM) for a mile or 2, the knock goes away until the engine cools back down after a few miles of low RPM driving and then the knock returns. it seems the knock does get louder at around 2k RPM, also makes me wonder if it may be the flywheel I have heard about? I hear that the flywheel can cause a knock as well. I was told that it was upgraded but I dont know that to be a fact.

 

[Farmer Rock]

This is a stupid question, but you say the high idle isn't working, as you probably know there is also a cold timing advance.....is it only knocking for say 15-20 minutes until it warms up? Usually the timing advance would go off with the high idle, but if the high idle isn't on, you may not notice it as much going on or off.
I imagine when you get on the highway it's warm, so that kind of lines up with this.
To test this, run a jumper wire from a hot terminal on one of the batteries to the timing advance on the IP

Rock

 

[Mattc2066]

This is a stupid question, but you say the high idle isn't working, as you probably know there is also a cold timing advance.....is it only knocking for say 15-20 minutes until it warms up? Usually the timing advance would go off with the high idle, but if the high idle isn't on, you may not notice it as much going on or off.
I imagine when you get on the highway it's warm, so that kind of lines up with this.
To test this, run a jumper wire from a hot terminal on one of the batteries to the timing advance on the IP

Rock

it knocks all the time. the only time it stops is if I run very high RPM for a couple miles but once I slow down it comes back after a few miles. I know almost nothing about the IDI, so I am learning as I go. I can check that if you can be more detailed. Where is the advance on the pump? what am I looking for. and where do I jump it to on the advance? Also I gound out today that the silenoid for the high idle is broken. The rubber boot on the back was hanging off and the connections were snapped off.

 

[Farmer Rock]

it knocks all the time. the only time it stops is if I run very high RPM for a couple miles but once I slow down it comes back after a few miles. I know almost nothing about the IDI, so I am learning as I go. I can check that if you can be more detailed. Where is the advance on the pump? what am I looking for. and where do I jump it to on the advance? Also I gound out today that the silenoid for the high idle is broken. The rubber boot on the back was hanging off and the connections were snapped off.

There are 3 wires that connect on the IP. The one on the passenger side is the high idle. On the driver's side, the wire that is closer to the front of the truck is the fuel shutoff. The cold timing advance is on the driver's side as well, farthest towards the rear of the truck. To test the advance, just pull off the cold advance plug and see if you still hear the noise. Afterwards connect a jumper wire from there to a positive battery terminal. When the cold advance is on, it's gonna sound real knocky like you describe, so this will give you an idea if this is it or not.


Rock

 

[Mattc2066]

There are 3 wires that connect on the IP. The one on the passenger side is the high idle. On the driver's side, the wire that is closer to the front of the truck is the fuel shutoff. The cold timing advance is on the driver's side as well, farthest towards the rear of the truck. To test the advance, just pull off the cold advance plug and see if you still hear the noise. Afterwards connect a jumper wire from there to a positive battery terminal. When the cold advance is on, it's gonna sound real knocky like you describe, so this will give you an idea if this is it or not.


Rock

I unplugged it and it made no difference. But I think I found where the rest of the noise is coming from. Here is a video. The noise is coming from the clutch/flywheel area. I was told by the previous owner that it was all replaced and upgraded. The clutch definitely looks spanking new but the flywheel not so much. can anyone tell from the picture if this is the problematic noisy flywheel I have heard about?

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[Vern]

Thanks for letting us join you in on your idi and oilburner.net learning. I hope it doesn't sound unhelpful that you could familiarize with the forum and do us the courtesy of saying "advance the video to the ___ minute mark", since we just read what was your point.

Also meaning to be of help:

Injector imbalance/faults can make the noise as you describe. Injectors are removed and pop tested at an engine shop.

The noise of a solid flywheel retrofitted idi can be considerable but that should go away when the rpms rise above idle.