pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Thanks Laser, I had just found the Auto Meter version of the same adapter at Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2277
Jasper 7.3 IDI?
- Thread starter pastorjeep
- Start date
Amazon had the autometer ones too. This was just sooner in the list. Good luck. If you get a chance, post a pic of your pop tester. With all the talk about injectors and such, starting to think having the tools to refurb them might not be a bad idea. I've got a buddy with a Unimog and a Porsche that both have mechanical fuel injection and he might be interested in having that option as well. No rush or anything. I know there are other pop testers out there I just like to see how other people solve problems.
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Will do! As soon as I get the truck running finishing the Pop tester is my fun project.
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Ok, got it all back together today and it runs pretty good but seems way retarded on timing. The alternator has a busted case and the t-stat housing is leaking where I put in a new T-stat. Other than that I will drive it a while and wee what I have.
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pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Hey Gary sent you a PM. Someone on here give me some feed back on your thoughts about dealing with a cracked alt casing? Here is a picture of first run after getting everything back together.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vr0MyxuAYZA&list=UURimQFRDRo0Pb8RMBAgBEoQ
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Ok, a little update here. I still have the same problem that burnt the GP in the old motor. The WTS light only stays on for 5 seconds and I have to cycle it several times to get a cold start. New GP's and new controller. So now I suspect the harness. I was thinking that I would send 12V directly to the harness and check each GP end for voltage? To see if there is any drop on any single wire. I think the controller must be sensing a no resistance condition somewhere. It did it with the Berus and now with these Bosch as well? On the pop tester I am stumped right now. Evidently the jack type I have has a little grove for pressure relief? and is pushing fluid back to the reservoir. So I need a jack with the little return hole that I can plug. 
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Unplug all glowplugs and check resistance from each end back to the relay.
Personally at this point, I would go with a pushbutton setup. But I understand some people can't because other people drive their trucks also.
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Personally at this point, I would go with a pushbutton setup. But I understand some people can't because other people drive their trucks also.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Jasper, what is the proper resistance on something like that?
If you are just checking the wires from terminal to terminal (plug to relay) it should be very close to 0 Ohms (Dead short). You may see a few Ohms, but if it is high, like in the 1000's + ohms, you have an issue in that wire.
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
The moment we have all been waiting for 
I checked each GP and each wire and the average GP was 0.0-0.3 and each wire was in the exact same range. You noticed that I said average for the GP's, well I had one registering 7.8 and that was it. Technically it was "good" because the test light always lit on it. These were new GP's s this is more evidence for those who always say "don't just use the test light". Much frustration eliminated over a simple thirty minute test. The WTS light is back to twelve to fifteen seconds and the truck starts on one cycle. Thanks for all the positive input.
I checked each GP and each wire and the average GP was 0.0-0.3 and each wire was in the exact same range. You noticed that I said average for the GP's, well I had one registering 7.8 and that was it. Technically it was "good" because the test light always lit on it. These were new GP's s this is more evidence for those who always say "don't just use the test light". Much frustration eliminated over a simple thirty minute test. The WTS light is back to twelve to fifteen seconds and the truck starts on one cycle. Thanks for all the positive input.The moment we have all been waiting for
in post 37, jasper talks of the push button setup. the reason being,,those gp controllers. like to stick on,,and will burn ANY brand gp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hate to have you have the same problem happen with your "new" engine.........
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I recall you testing this new 6.9 controller years back Mel. Thanks for bringing this back to the top again. So far I have never had any issues with my 7.3 solid state controller in nearing 500,000 miles of travel starts. I hope I'm not knocking on wood saying this too. Nothing like testing the winds of change...
stealth13777
Full Access Member
Sorry for the brief hijack, but will someone clarify something for me; are you saying there are normal 6.9 controllers that screw in the head and use the existing harness, that are no longer prone to failing and taking out the glow plugs? If so, which controller would I need? That would be a simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade.
On topic, congrats on finding your problem, and I bet other people will be able to use this thread to diagnose their own systems.
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On topic, congrats on finding your problem, and I bet other people will be able to use this thread to diagnose their own systems.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
