Is there a how to article on the heater bypass?

[fx4wannabe]

I looked in the articles and I didn't see one listed on how to do the heater core bypass. Is it just a valve that needs to be put in or a bunch of piping and stuff? I don't have A/C in the truck and on a hot day the heat in the floor boards will almost burn you and I was hoping this will help.

 

[Exekiel69]

I know the warden did it on He's truck.

 

[The Warden]

Not to toot my own horn, but here ya go

I do have one thing to add, though. I'm not normally a "buy-from-the-dealer-or-die-trying" type but in this case, I would recommend getting the bypass valve from Ford. It cost the same as the one I bought from Napa at first, and I always had trouble with the Napa valve leaking out of the top (a metal arm comes up that the vacuum pot pushes on; the point where the arm went through the plastic was where mine leaked). The Ford valve's been on for almost a year now and has been 100% leak-free.

 

[fx4wannabe]

Ok I did see that article but the title threw me off. Would it be possible just to put in a ball valve that you can just turn on and off? It would stay off most of the year down here.

 

[The Warden]

Ok I did see that article but the title threw me off. Would it be possible just to put in a ball valve that you can just turn on and off? It would stay off most of the year down here.

That would sort of work.

There are two schools of thought here. One is that coolant NEEDS to flow out of the head through the heater hose at all times, regardless of whether it goes into the heater core or gets redirected back to the water pump. If you subscribe to that belief, you would need to install two ball valves and two T-fittings to connect the two lines to each other.

The other is that that coolant doesn't need to flow. If you subscribe to that, a single ball valve would do it.

I honestly don't know which is right and which isn't, but I figured I would play it safe and make sure that coolant could flow from the head to the water pump even without going through the core. And, that Ford valve IS cheap (about $20, plus $3 or $4 for the vacuum stuff and four hose clamps). So, just for convenience's sake, I'd go with the Ford valve. But, one or the other ball valve setups would work as well, so it's your call.

Hope this helps...good luck

 

[fx4wannabe]

I see what you are saying. The only reason that I am kinda trying to stay away from the vaccum stuff is I don't know for sure how much of my vaccum system actually works right. The brakes work, the A/Cdoes not. I know the pump is good but my engine compartment is a mess and I just trying to make it go until I can afford a new motor.

 

[jauguston]

You can put a valve in either line to the heater to stop the flow. To see if it is worth the trouble take a pair of visegrips and clamp one of the hoses. That will let you see what a valve will do ----or leave the visegrips there (-:

Jim

 

[82fordtruck]

I did a coolant filter install and put one ball valve in. So, a small amount flows through the filter at all times, and in the summer I turn off the heater core.

 

[fx4wannabe]

Do you have any pics of how you routed everything. That sounds like a good idea to kill 2 birds with one stone.

 

[h2odrx]

i just un-hooked my lines and hooked them together for a quick fix?

 

[6_Myles]

So the coolant flow is from head to core back to water pump?

 

[The Warden]

So the coolant flow is from head to core back to water pump?

Yes

 

[82fordtruck]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12483

Look at thread #4 here.