Is my Blocks Life Over?

[USNENFTS]

So.... I started cleaning my block surface and made a very upsetting discovery, what do you all think? I think this block is nothing more than a pile of scrap at this point.... This is really making me upset.... Who knows when I'll be able to drive my truck again.....

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[79jasper]

I can't say for sure.
But looks likes a sleeve?

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[PwrSmoke]

Well, I guess everyone can see why some of us harp about studs. Not twisting the knife on you, Sailor, it a teachable moment. Anyway....

Same thing happened to mine. Comes from lots of combustion leakage and head lifting from stretched head bolts. The block deck can be surfaced but you have to compensate. by lowering the piston stickup above the beck (or the piston will hit the valves or head). One way is with destroked pistons... meaning the pin is moved up closer to the piston crown, which drops the crown down the bore by the same amount. Federal Mogul has a 0.010" destroked piston (there is an online catalog but I can dig out my papers and give you a number later if you need it). You can also shave the tops of the piston by the amount required. I only like that if it's a few thou- taking too much reduced the thickness of the piston and moves the top ring closer to the fire. You want to end up with the same amount of piston protrusion as you had stock, or within the range they give in the manual. You will also have to make sure of the valve recession in the head (which should have been adjusted with a valve job or a head resurface) so you don't end up with too much compression. My advice is to first have the block decked... as little as possible but as much as it takes to clean it up... and you want the same amount removed on both sides. Then you reinstall the crank and one piston without rings. Measure piston protrusion and compare it to the specs. The spec is 0.010-0.031 stick out and better at the lower end of that.. If you measure what you have now and subtract an estimated 0.010-0.015 or so, you can get an idea. You may need the 0.010" destroked piston and a little extra besides. Get your calculator and your mikes out! It's all doable.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for the best picture I have seen in a long time showing something very important. Its saveable but will require a sleeve with a lip on the top. That lip sleeve is so much better for sealing than a standard sleeve. Only issue with the sleeve that has a wide land at the top is it must be machined on both the top and bottom of the cylinder to fit correctly. That means the top of the block and the bottom of the cylinder areas have to be cut to the correct depth or the sleeve sits high on the block deck if the bottom is not cut deep enough. Looks like something was leaking for a really long time too. I'm not seeing this as a sleeved cylinder. But I'm not there looking at it either. No matter what. It can be machined out easily.

 

[USNENFTS]

I don't have any tools to measure anything.... Gary, do you know where I can get the sleeves you speak of? I don't have a lot of time and I am about to buy a Promar engine because I feel this is out of my range of capabilities.... No, there are no sleeves..... It's bored .030"

 

[G. Mann]

At this point, with a block that has already been bored .30 oversize, with surface issues, and the cost of sleeve repair by a competent machine shop.. I would drive toward finding a good used block that needed bored first time to .10 over.. or just honed.

I think the cost would be less than trying to sleeve this one and the result would be better.

 

[laserjock]

Food for thought. If you decide to go the promar route, I talked to them about building the motor the way I wanted with a different cam, valve springs, studs etc. For pretty much the cost of the parts if I remember right they would do it. That's pretty much the route I've decided to go but I need to contact them again. It's been a while. I got ahold of them via ebay message I think it was. It made more sense to have them put it together with the parts I wanted rather than me tear down a fresh rebuild and swap stuff. And they would honor the warranty. Might have been tougher to hold on to the warranty if I had opened it all up again.

 

[USNENFTS]

I'm going to pull my engine out of the donor truck and see what it looks like. I think its original, as long as the cavitation is to a minimum it'll work! I am done with this block, I will continue no further with it. How much scrap money is it worth? !

 

[79jasper]

Before calling promar, give Mel a call.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[IDIoit]

my condolences.
well atleast you found it!
bag and tag your heads after they come back and use them on the next one.
you know what they say about life?... its a what?
try to not fret over it too much,( i know, easier said than done)it only puts you in a bad mood, besides, you gonna have to do something about it one way or another.
keep chuggin along.

a question for the room, could that be welded up with a TIG, and then decked?
where the line is, it looks like to me that there has been some sort of sleeving for the line to form around in a diameter liike that.
maybe around the metal ring on the headgasket? i thought the metal gasket was larger than that .
i dont know, just curious.

 

[KZF250]

How much scrap money is it worth? !

Well that sucks man and not to kick you while your down but scrap is at a low we haven't seen in years.... .05-.06 cents a pound or worse in many yards across the country.

 

[cpdenton]

One other thing I will mention. That has been there for a long time. Your turbo install merely made the symptoms come to the surface. That took some miles to cause that sort of problem with the block deck.

Hope you are able to come up with a solution and get back on the road.

 

[USNENFTS]

Oilburners...... I need help.... If my spare engine is no good then I will not know what to do.... Does anyone know of someone or somewhere there is a good block? What should I do with my current one that is damaged? I need the space to take the spare apart to inspect it.... I don't want to throw it away cause I am sure the crank, cams, rods, all that can be re-used I just don't understand this engine.... I am used to being to adjust valve lash and on these you can't..... So how is one supposed to rebuild an engine and get the valve lash correct? I'm in a serious world of hurt right now....

 

[IDIoit]

if this was mine, and i was in your situation.

honestly, i would slap the heads back on, remove your goodies, and run it as long as you can.
it will run, but you dont want to be putting any kind of boost in it. just get it operational while you build another.
ive thrown some straight garbage together, and beat the hell out of it trying to wreck things.
sometimes the most obscure things ive done ran quite well. and never came apart like ive expected them to.

i would get a new set of head bolts so you dont ruin your new studs, with this issue i wouldnt run your bolts.
or hell run your bolts and just get it operational.

take a mental picture of your face after 100 miles of your turbo instal, and imprint it on the sun visor for inspiration.

 

[79jasper]

As I stated earlier. Call up Mel.
He's working on a drop in engine option. Maybe you can be the first to run one.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk