IP on its way out?

cbarm

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My sig. truck has been getting hard to start on these cooler mornings. When I went to fire it up today it was pretty tough...rolled over for a good 30 seconds before it fired. If it was plugged in for 3 or 4 hrs it would start really easy. It was about 35F last night. I did notice that I have a return line cap leaking slightly, very minimal weeping (might lose a drop in 30 mins of running) but could that cause this hard starting? All new Beru's installed a month ago and fuel system is clean using Lucas fuel syatem cleaner/conditioner...
 

Devon Harley

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Hard to start my first thought would be the leaking cap/air in the system an the gp system ip would be my last guess imo.
 

cbarm

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Hmm...I was just reading in another thread that it could be compression/blowby related. How would I know without doing a compression test or is there any other way?
 

Mulochico

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Hard to start my first thought would be the leaking cap/air in the system an the gp system ip would be my last guess imo.

X2.

I had a little dampness on my return lines/caps. A little hard starting. redid the return lines w/ Russ' (Type4) kit ;Sweet, and it made a huge difference. It doesn't take much to have an air intrusion issue on these systems.

I would start with the easiest/cheapest (relatively speaking) potential problem 1st. then progress to others if it continues.
 

prepowerstroke

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my dads truck(1990 f250 7.3 idi) has been gettimg hard to start too... no return line leaks. it has new glow plugs new harness and a new controler and cranks prob 90 seconds before it starts(stoping every 30 seconds to not hurt new starter) and when it starts it runs really rough and pours out white smoke then idle smouths out after runing a while.... wht you guys think?
 

Hydro-idi

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my dads truck(1990 f250 7.3 idi) has been gettimg hard to start too... no return line leaks. it has new glow plugs new harness and a new controler and cranks prob 90 seconds before it starts(stoping every 30 seconds to not hurt new starter) and when it starts it runs really rough and pours out white smoke then idle smouths out after runing a while.... wht you guys think?

There could be an air leak that has not been identified. Other issues could include bad lift pump and dying IP and/or injectors. Something is telling me the glowplugs are not working right though. Is the WTS light coming on and cycling after glowplugs have heated?
 

prepowerstroke

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well the truck harnres stoped working(wire broke) so we ran a wire from the batteries to a pushbutten switch then to the battery side of the controller... wait to start light comes on and it does draw power bc the switch gets hot if u hold it a while
 

Hydro-idi

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When you say that the truck is easy to start when it is plugged in, this sounds like a glowplug problem is still occuring in my opinion. What is the history on your IP and injectors?? The white smoke is an indicator that it is getting plenty of fuel, just not enough heat to light it off, which is why I still think there is an issue with the glow sticks.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Test your glow plugs with a meter, even if they are new. It got a little colder here and I noticed my truck started just a tick harder than usual, and as it turned out I had one bad glow plug. When it gets colder the glow plugs are an absolute, and they are cheaper/easier than replacing a starter.
 

cbarm

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OK I will check my gp's out. They are all Beru's n all put in about a month ago. Can I just check em with a test light or do I need to get a multimeter? BTW I have a facet pump that I got from (damn I forgot who on this forum) so fuel shouldnt be a problem...
 

prepowerstroke

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When you say that the truck is easy to start when it is plugged in, this sounds like a glowplug problem is still occuring in my opinion. What is the history on your IP and injectors?? The white smoke is an indicator that it is getting plenty of fuel, just not enough heat to light it off, which is why I still think there is an issue with the glow sticks.

well when we got the truck guy said the motor and trans were rebuilt about 60,000 miles ago, the motor has a "void" sticker in the driver side valve cover and the trans trailor shifts but it used to start right up we used to start it inthe dead of winter at about 16 degrees out and it would fire up first try we never did replace injectors or ip because it ran good but now it misses about 2000 rpms too so maybe ip is going bad?
 

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