IP install ?????

[eastsideauto]

I know it has been covered NUMEROUS times but I just want to get this right the first time. I am a very competent ASE certified mechanic but this is the first IP change for me. When removing my old pump I dont need to remove the 4 bolts holding the timing cover on? What do I need to do to make sure all is timed well? #1 TDC? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

 

[xcite]

Do not remove the timing gear cover!! If you do it is hard to see the marks to line it back up. Remove old pump install new one line up the mark on the IP to the housing, this will get it close enough to get motor started. After that will need a timing meter to set correctly.

 

[justinray]

Leave the gear cover on, unbolt the IP from the cover and the fuel lines from the IP, once that is done, the IP will slide right right out.

 

[gandalf]

Absolutely, leave that gear cover on. Your world will turn nasty very quickly if you remove it.

Read Mel's article several times before you r&r the IP. I even printed the necessary parts and kept them handy at the work site.

Mel's Article

I have some pictures, among the four dozen, of my IP replacement job. Click on "My Photos" below.

 

[gdhillon]

Ken, could you email me bigger pictures of your ip r&r? [email protected]

 

[icanfixall]

^Thanks for asking this very important question BEFORE jumping in. Do not ever remove the gear cover that the pump bolts up to. At the front of this aluminum cover is a two bolt plate that needs to come off. Behind that is the three 12 point 5/1 bolts that holds the pump drive shaft to the gear. It requires a special socket to remove them and the retorue is 25 lbs. I know that sounds high but these three bolts are special hardened steel high quality and the same as our rear universal joint bolts. So if you ruin any of them just go to Nappa and buy a universal joint repair kit. It comes with 4 bolts the same length and two straps .. Removing the fast idle solenoid and bracket found on the passenger side of the pump will give you more working room to get at the lower 9/16 nut for the pump to gear cover. The top nut will need the pump moved towards the firewall before it will completely unscrew from the stud. We all know this little problem too so don't feel your getting stuck at all. Please ask questions here. Together we have changed out thousands of these pumps so there isn't anything we collectively have not seen before. A ford dealer is another thing. They charge by the hour and don't wear a mask when they rob you to the tune of $120.00 per hour. This forum is free and we strive to keep the money in your pocket.

 

[gandalf]

Ken, could you email me bigger pictures of your ip r&r? [email protected]

Sure. Not a problem. They're not all good, not all worth looking at, and I'm not sure just what you'd like to see. So, I've picked out eight pictures which I think illustrate best what's happening. Each picture averages about 825 Kb. Not knowing your ISP's limitations in so far as downloading, I'll split this into two emails.

 

[eastsideauto]

Does #1 cyl need to be at TDC? Are there "marks" to help in finding this? Never done it on a diesel engine before.

 

[justinray]

Doesn't matter where the piston is in its stroke.

 

[icanfixall]

When you get the front plate off the injection pump gear cover you will see the three 12 point bolts that require a 12 point 5/16 inch socket. That gear has a pin about 3/8 diameter that intersects with the injection pump drive flange. I know this may sound above you but its stupid simple once you get going on it. There is no way you can install the injection pump wrong IF.... You never remove the pump, grear cover and gear at the same time. To do that you need to remove the 4 bolts that go down into the block thru the aluminum gear cover. I may have a pic of this cover.. I can't move over a pic from ebay but here is a nice clear pic of the cover and gear that you never want to remove. The ebay item number is 400299230206

 

[icanfixall]

Her is the cover you never want to remove when replacing the injection pump. You clearly see the 4 bolt holes that hold this to the block. And you clearly see the side where the injection pump connects to it on the studs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-9-7-3-Die...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

 

[Brad S.]

Warning possible hijack coming, sorry eastside auto.(I didn't want to start another IP thread)
This does kinda relate since just changed my IP tonight and trying not to run the batteries down.
If you have a electric fuel pump and turn the engine manually, could you get fuel to push up through each cracked injector line???
I had all my lines cracked open, and noticed no.1 pushing out a few bubbles.(the pump was running)
I thought maybe the IP was on that cylinder and the pressure from the electric pump was causing this???
Gary thanks for the tip about the IP bolts.

 

[justinray]

If you're running an electric lift, just kick the starter for a couple seconds, honestly when I changed my injectors and IP, I did the initial start without cracking the injector lines, started with little hassle.

 

[Brad S.]

If you're running an electric lift, just kick the starter for a couple seconds, honestly when I changed my injectors and IP, I did the initial start without cracking the injector lines, started with little hassle.

About a month ago when I switched IP's to figured out a hard start I did that, had a harder time getting it to fire.
So I thought I'd make sure the fuel is coming through each line, by having them open a little.
I know its going through the return side, can hear the fuel going back into the tank.

 

[rhkcommander]

About a month ago when I switched IP's to figured out a hard start I did that, had a harder time getting it to fire.
So I thought I'd make sure the fuel is coming through each line, by having them open a little.
I know its going through the return side, can hear the fuel going back into the tank.

disable glow plugs, floor it and crank over till you see grey smoke coming out the exhaust. Then you know it'll fire when you glowplug it!

Thats how I start every time since I have either fuel leak or air intrustion... I just crank it a few seconds until I see steady smoke. Normal glowplug time, try again and vrooom