IP fuel adjustment

SparkandFire

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So, I mounted my "special instrument tech" pyrometer (more on that to come...) and I was wondering, what good does it do to turn up the fuel on the IP?

I ran the truck up on the freeway yesterday, and the highest I could get my exhaust temps up to was around 340 degrees. I haven't had the opportunity to tow anything with my truck yet, so I really don't know how she performs under load.

Right now, I have light grey smoke under heavy acceleration. Is there any benefit to turn up the pump? Will is worsen my already horrible fuel economy???

:dunno
 

Agnem

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Your pyrometer is not functioning. Unless you have the sensor in the tailpipe. LOL Better tell us more about your setup. Pics would be nice.
 

SparkandFire

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Mel, I think you might be right... I know the instrument and thermocouple are working, but I am not sure I have the thermocouple in the right spot :dunno

Setup is this...

Omega 12 volt 1/8 DIN 4 digit temperature indicator
http://www.omega.com/pptst/DPI8C.html

Omega "K" type thermocouple washer assembly with glass insulaton
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=WT&Nav=tema03

I will take some pictures of the installation when I get home today.

What I did was clamp the thermocouple on the drivers side exhaust pipe itself JUST after the flange with a 316 stainless hose clamp... Is that too far away???
 

JwS

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Make sure of 2 things, you have the unit set to the right TC type, and you are reading in degrees F not C
I have a similar setup, but only 3 digits, so I read in degrees C and 1250 is about 600 something..
Works good though...good job thinking outside the box!
JwS
 

SparkandFire

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TC type is correct in the indicator. I calibrated the whole rig on a fluidized sand bath calibrator here in the shop.

I ran it up to 1000 deg.F and it was only off by 2 degrees!

I want to get a thermowell into the pipe, but I don't really have anywhere to do the welding right now.
 

JwS

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Oh, wait, the washer thing is no good, you need a probe in the exhaust stream, get a 6 inch straight tubular one, 1/8 or 3/16 diameter. They sell a compression fitting for installing them too.
something like a TJ36-CASS-316G-6-CC
JwS
 

icanfixall

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Don't try to weld a thermoweld into the cast iron manifold... It wont hold up and it will ruin the manifold but... The manifolds are cheap and can easily be found... Removing and replacing one is a differant story. Just drill and tap a hole in the correct position and that will work fine.
 

SparkandFire

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I figured I needed a probe in the stream! What got me thinking the washer/clamp would work is someone (I think Autometer) sells a pyro with a clamp on thermocouple... :dunno
 

SparkandFire

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Don't try to weld a thermoweld into the cast iron manifold... It wont hold up and it will ruin the manifold but... The manifolds are cheap and can easily be found... Removing and replacing one is a differant story. Just drill and tap a hole in the correct position and that will work fine.

I was thinking about welding a tap on the pipe itself after the flange, but you say I can just drill and tap the manifold?

Where's the best place to put the sensor if I did drill and tap it?
 

hesutton

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Oh, wait, the washer thing is no good, you need a probe in the exhaust stream, JwS

X 2. The cool air rushing by the exterior of the pipe and the fact it isn't in the exhaust gases will falsely lower your readings.

Heath
 
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JwS

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the clamp on probe just allows you to drill a hole in the exhaust pipe without threading it, the probe sticks through and the clamp holds it on. It is a reasonable solution for the mechanically challenged...hehehe
JwS
 

SparkandFire

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LOL

I get it now! Truth is, I didn't realize I would have such airflow down in that spot, but that goes to show what my level of thinking is cookoo


i've got some 1/8 threaded thermocouples around here, I'll try throwing that in this weekend...

Is it best to drill and tap the manifold, or the pipe?
 

Mat J

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manifold the pipe is to thin to tap. try to get as close to number 8 as you can, i did mine underneath it.
 

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