I'm here wanna rebuild an oil cooler?

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I'd like to thank Darrin for the invite!

Just got a post from Pete on redoing the oil cooler

Looks like a pain. I have got to do it soon as I finally discovered that it is what is dumping oil on the ground from above the filter. Along with the rear main seal as well. I have these issues and the IP replacement to complete before the rally. A few other small issues also with fresh paint too!
anyway the oil cooler thank goodness is just dumping the oil on the ground and not into the cooling system yet!

Any takers?

Ron

P.S. gotta get my post going to pass 10

 

[argve]

Actually it's not that bad, yes it's messy but once you drain the oil and coolant out of the block it really not that bad.

take loose the rear header and leave the front on alone. Then remove the rear header/bundle assembly as one. Then if the front header is not leaking at the block mating surface leave it alone it will be fine.

Now that you have the rear header/bundle assembly out from under the truck then pull them apart and install new orings on the bundle not the header - you will take a chance of cutting the oring if you install them in the header first. Just grease them up a bit to make them slide in easier. Then once you get the rear header back on the bundle your ready to slide under the truck. Now line up the bundle with the front header and take a piece of wood and lever it into the front header. Once in then just install the new gasket and reinstall the bolts. Tighten them up (you can either torque them to correct specs) or do as I do and just tighten them up just don't be a he-man about it and you'll do fine.

Then reinstall the oil, filter, coolant and additive - enjoy.

Should take you about 2-3 hours seeing as how your new at the oil cooler. You can't get the oil cooler backwards if you just pay attention to the holes and alignment tabs of the bundle. The openings for the coolant/oil point towards the block naturally.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Thanks Travis,

Sounds a little easier than what Dualie had posted which was very thorough. He had the part numbers which is what I needed the most. I was on the phone with the Stealership parts dept today for an hour and the only oil cooler setup they could find was the one in the radiator for the heavy duty cooling package. They thought I was full of Autolite. Gonna tell 'em different tomorrow.
I have 4 days off this weekend and want to get that and the coolant filtration system and Tstat changed this weekend to knock those issues out of the way as the boss said that if the ole Beast is up to ***** by the deadline than we could take the trip to the rally this year.

Ron

 

[yARIC008]

The key thing i think is make sure you put the orings on the bundle and not in the headers like alot of books say to do. You'll cut them everytime with the orings in the header. And of course the ones that get cut are the expensive ones

 

[Agnem]

I just wish there was a way to test the integrity of the seals before you start it up. If you didn't have oil in your coolant before, you sure won't want it now. At least with the whole bundle on the workbench, you can be sure it is right. Leaving the front header on is a risk you'll have to decide on for yourself. Barney has a great testing rig which is just what is needed.

 

[mirage2521]

Hmmmm, as a very experienced oil cooler repair guy, took me three times to get it right, I would recommend IMHO, to rmove both headers and use a manual hydro press to put the unit back together. Use lots of lube on the O rings prior to pressing

 

[geonc]

Originally posted by mirage2521
Hmmmm, as a very experienced oil cooler repair guy, took me three times to get it right, I would recommend IMHO, to rmove both headers and use a manual hydro press to put the unit back together. Use lots of lube on the O rings prior to pressing

Yea, 3 times here too BUT for the life of me, I do not understand the need for a hyd press

Plenty of silicone plumbers grease for DAMN sure but those headers only go on so far

 

[argve]

Originally posted by geonc
Yea, 3 times here too BUT for the life of me, I do not understand the need for a hyd press

Plenty of silicone plumbers grease for DAMN sure but those headers only go on so far

You got that right George, Plus with pulling the oil cooler then installing both headers while it's out it's gonna be a royal pain to get it back in place without either raising the engine or removing the exhaust man. I just don't see how it will fit back in there, I know when I did mine for the first time with engine was installed I could not find the room to slip her out of the frame rail with both headers installed. The times I had done it previously the engine was on the stand so it was a no brainer there. But if the engine is already sitting in the bay there just wasn't the room in The Enterprise to slip past.

Really it's not all that bad sliding it together, you would not believe the leverage you get from using a 2x4 and a pry bar. Yes you have to put a little muscle behind it but it's not that bad. Just hook yer feet and plop.

 

[Warwagon]

Ron,
Never had to pull/install one in a pickup, but form what I've heard, it's a bit snug in there. I'm glad for the extra 3" of internal frame width of my van. When Jim, John, Nick and Russ helped me with mine at last summer's IDI at the Tosh Plantation, we were able to get it right on the first try! I attribute it to the fact that we polished the living snot out of the O-ring mating surfaces on the bundle and the headers and lubed it up real good with vasoline prior to pushing the headers on the bundle. By using fine grit #400-600 abrasive paper, we were able to get rid of all of the accumulated build-up on both pieces and nicely radius the portals on the bundle and headers. By going this extra step, and de-burring the whole assembly, we were able to greatly reduce the chances of cutting an O-ring upon install. My advice, clean the mating surfaces WELL (including the header to block), do the bundle disassembly/reassembly on the bench, and be sure to lube the bundle/headers and O-rings well. Also a good linear push on the headers should insure a trouble free rebuild. If it were me, I'd pressure test the unit prior to install. That way you won't find yourself having to do it all over again should a snag arise.

Mark

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I'm still trying to muster myself to go out there and do it. 15 degrees out today and I don't think I can get the barn warm enough for me to spend the day tearing it apart.

The big thing that baffles me is the oil leaking down from the rear header over the oil filter and no coolant. No oil in the coolant either?

With the amount of space under there taking the cluster out is giving me the second guesses. I have all of the orings and gaskets $62.00 from the stealership and had to drive an hour just to get the only set they had. I don't want to put the ole beast down out of commission as it is my daily driver and can't affor it to be down. Plus the temps is also a factor in putting this together without cutting the orings.

I want to wait till warmer weather but I should also get it done before oil ends up in the cooling system. Also wanting to put Tstat and coolant filter on at same time and recharge SCA's as was 1 pt low today after testing and 1 pt in back in March.

I am almost wondering if the oil leak was from the valve cover gasket leaking before it was changed out. a month ago. The rear main is leaking severly and is probably my 1 qt of oil per 500 miles cause theres no smoke while cruising.

Ron

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I found the leak and it was the rear main and the recently changed valve covers causing all the ruckus. Still trying to locate the culprit for the antifreeze drips on the inspection cover. Freeze plugs look good and nothing fresh from the cooler. Just gonna monitor the oil cooler for awhile and see what happens.

Ron