dyoung14
Is getting worn out
change the slave cylinder for the clutch?
How to???
- Thread starter dyoung14
- Start date
Sycostang67
Scooty Puff Junior
Remove the roll pin holding the hose in, remove hose, pry old slave off. Mount new slave, insert hose and retaining roll pin then bleed.
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
how do you remove the pin? and how do you bleed?
smokin69
Always smokin'
roll pin I'm guessing with a small punch
TwoTone IDI
ZF swap completed!
3/32 punch or chuck end of a drill bit if you dont have the punch... just gotta get it started then pull it out with pliers
i like to bench bleed the slave which means:
1. disconnect the hydraulic line and leave the outlet ABOVE the master reservoir
2. disconnect the linkage from the clutch pedal (to let the master extend fully)
3. on a new slave, let loose the white plastic strap and let the slave pushrod out slowly
4. fill the slave with fresh fluid (helps to have a medicine dropper, yes really)
5. wiggle the pushrod to let bubbles out... when theres no more bubbles you are nice and full and air-free
6. make sure master reservoir is full, then drop line down to slave location
7. while fluid is flowing from the hydraulic line, install it and set the roll pin
8. with the cap off the reservoir, SLOWLY push in the slave pushrod and reattach the little strap you get with the new slave
9. install slave assy
10. take little plastic straps loose from sides of slave bracket so it wont break on the first clutch application... this will allow you to reuse it next time. you cant buy just the strap.
11. reattach clutch pedal linkage
12. depress clutch several times with quick short strokes until you get pedal pressure.
if you are reusing a slave and dont have the strap... heaven help you!
on my recent clutch install i actually had to make a little mechanical spreader to get the clutch fork far back enough to allow the slave pushrod to nest in its proper place. i made it with a piece of 5/16 all thread and a coupling nut. i only had to go an extra 1/8" but the spreader made all the difference in the world because of the compromising position you will be in (under the truck with arms in the air)
good luck.
i like to bench bleed the slave which means:
1. disconnect the hydraulic line and leave the outlet ABOVE the master reservoir
2. disconnect the linkage from the clutch pedal (to let the master extend fully)
3. on a new slave, let loose the white plastic strap and let the slave pushrod out slowly
4. fill the slave with fresh fluid (helps to have a medicine dropper, yes really)
5. wiggle the pushrod to let bubbles out... when theres no more bubbles you are nice and full and air-free
6. make sure master reservoir is full, then drop line down to slave location
7. while fluid is flowing from the hydraulic line, install it and set the roll pin
8. with the cap off the reservoir, SLOWLY push in the slave pushrod and reattach the little strap you get with the new slave
9. install slave assy
10. take little plastic straps loose from sides of slave bracket so it wont break on the first clutch application... this will allow you to reuse it next time. you cant buy just the strap.
11. reattach clutch pedal linkage
12. depress clutch several times with quick short strokes until you get pedal pressure.
if you are reusing a slave and dont have the strap... heaven help you!
on my recent clutch install i actually had to make a little mechanical spreader to get the clutch fork far back enough to allow the slave pushrod to nest in its proper place. i made it with a piece of 5/16 all thread and a coupling nut. i only had to go an extra 1/8" but the spreader made all the difference in the world because of the compromising position you will be in (under the truck with arms in the air)
good luck.
Last edited:
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
I hate manual transmissions now
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
I did it on a early 90's dodge... there were easy to follow instructions included with it. Basically I just attached it to the hard line using aforementioned pin after removing the old one, then pushed the plunger a bunch with a ratchet wrench with a socket on to save the hand, took about 8 pumps to bleed with a buddy watching the bubbles. About a 20 minute job... my truck is newer than yours but looks the same, yours probably isn't much different.
gatorman21218
Registered User
Hmm ill keep this in mind because mine may be on its last leg. While she still shifts like a champ my front driveshaft is covered in brake fluid. Guess Ill have to keep an eye out on the fluid level.
gatorman21218
Registered User
oh and twotone i may call upon your help since you have done this before and arent too far away.
sootman73
Registered User
i would just buy the full system already bled from lmc truck..... the extra money seems well worth it to just throw it on and be done!
Bleeding an IDI clutch CAN be one of the harder more frustrating chores. The Scarlet Moose gave me a royal fit. I was only able to get it just barely to the point where the clutch would disengage. Strangley though, after doing that and driving it for several hundred miles, the clutch slowly came around to working like it should all on its own over a period of several weeks. 
65sixbanger
Full Access Member
Idk why, but I can do it very quickly now, if you have any problems let me know.
Also, there are so many threads on this already just search for em..
Also, there are so many threads on this already just search for em..
DeepRoots
Tug Engineer
come one.....
this is a fairly easy procedure.
use the advice given to change the slave. Make sure you have that ***** square oring as you won't be able to find it anywhere else. In a pinch a 9mm oring *can* be substituted, but not well, it'll leak when it's cold but can get ya home.
If the slave has a bleed, take it out and fill the slave prior to install, rock back and forth and make sure it can't take anymore.
when installed, get a 1ft prybar and force the slave to be retracted and slowly release so it draws fluid. Do this 20 times and yes it'll make a mess as you will force fluid out of the master. I had my 7 year old sit on the engine topping off the brake fluid as needed.
My system takes on a little air over the month of me being gone. Pumping the clutch pedal 5-10 times works any air out and I top off the fluid if needed (once in 2years).
Drew
this is a fairly easy procedure.
use the advice given to change the slave. Make sure you have that ***** square oring as you won't be able to find it anywhere else. In a pinch a 9mm oring *can* be substituted, but not well, it'll leak when it's cold but can get ya home.
If the slave has a bleed, take it out and fill the slave prior to install, rock back and forth and make sure it can't take anymore.
when installed, get a 1ft prybar and force the slave to be retracted and slowly release so it draws fluid. Do this 20 times and yes it'll make a mess as you will force fluid out of the master. I had my 7 year old sit on the engine topping off the brake fluid as needed.
My system takes on a little air over the month of me being gone. Pumping the clutch pedal 5-10 times works any air out and I top off the fluid if needed (once in 2years).
Drew
TwoTone IDI
ZF swap completed!
you got it man...
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
Ok i got half a clutch pedal now, it feels some like a clutch but it wont return all the way back to were its supose to, any ideas
