How to clean a rusty axle

Discussion in '6.9L IH & 7.3L IDI Diesels' started by SebastIDIan, Oct 8, 2017.

  1. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    ^ Along with that, from what uve seen, the 2wd wheels have that alignment tit. Which can be ground off to make them fit 4x4.

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  2. Dieselcrawler

    Dieselcrawler i pooped today! Staff Member

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    the 4x4 has the roll pin also. i always knock them out. my aftermarket wheels did not have the hole for them.
     
  3. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    Hmm. I'm not sure then.
    I swapped wheels from my brothers 93 F350 2wd to my 94 F350 4x4 and had to grind the tit off the wheels. But the one on the hubs are fine.

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  4. catbird7

    catbird7 Full Access Member

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    Here's what I did to an old rust PA truck. First step spray with Super Clean, then pressure wash. Next, if you have access to pressure washer attachment allowing you to mix sand with the high pressure water, it works awesome. If not use grinder with wire wheel. Then wipe down with paint thinner, allow it to fully dry and coat with POR15. Then I added several coats of rustoleum black. 1987 f250 33.JPG 1987 f250 34.JPG
     
  5. Thatoneguy

    Thatoneguy Full Access Member

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    Nicely done! When I was still living back home, I would always use my dads blaster out behind the shop with walnut shells. The walnut shells definitely do not get it pristine but they do a fantastic and fast job of all the big stuff. Then pressure wash, leave it in the sun to dry, and POR15 over the thin layer of rust still remaining. If their wasn't enough rust for the actual POR15 to adhere to (it has to have rust. Any clean spots it will flake off) then I would use the POR15topcoat because it still worked well converting the rust, but was much more forgiving on the clean spots. That stuff dries to be about as durable as any kind of paint can get when its fully cured. Awesome stuff.
     
  6. G. Mann

    G. Mann Full Access Member

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    Check in your local area for someone who does "Dustless Blasting".. they can take it down to bare metal in a few minutes. It is not sand blasting as you may know it.. different process.. It REALLY works good. Here is a link to some video of it in operation.

    https://www.dustlessblasting.com/video-contractors
     
  7. Thatoneguy

    Thatoneguy Full Access Member

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    That's pretty cool!

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  8. G. Mann

    G. Mann Full Access Member

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    i went to see one in operation, it impressed me so much I looked into buying one, unfortunately, to many bucks were needed to get a whole setup.... The Dustless system has all the advantages of sand blasting with none of the down sides... you can do car panels without distortion... blast fiberglass boats without damage to gell coat.. etc... the car I watched done still had the glass in it.. blasted the whole car in about 1.5 hrs.. no damage to glass or rubber.. incredible.
    Took it down to bare steel. The car was mounted on a rota tor so flipped it up and did the frame also.. rust was GONE instantly...
     
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  9. 79jasper

    79jasper Chickenhawk

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    The dustless blasting systems are cool.
    I reckon they have smaller units, but to me you'd be better offf going into the business of blasting if you buy one. Lol

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  10. jwalterus

    jwalterus Made in America

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    I'd looked at one of the ones in this video, not too bad if you want to get into it as a business, but still $30k, too much if you want to have one just to use.
    https://www.dustlessblasting.com/video-automotive

    Then I found out about the Graco Ecoquip machines, turns out they've been around for a long freaking time.
    Comparable price, but they do smaller units, we (dad and I) almost bought an Ecoquip 2 EQP last year on sale for about a grand.
    Might pull the trigger on it next year.....

    http://www.graco.com/us/en/products/product-type/blasting-equipment.html
     
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  11. ShadetreeV

    ShadetreeV Registered User

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    Look up zero rust, no blasting needed and no top coat. just a quick De-scale and degrease
     
  12. coffeerich44

    coffeerich44 Registered User

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    I just got into trying to rustproof my truck when I cracked a rear leaf spring. I decided to use my de-scaler to get rid of some of that chunky rust around the spring hangers and to my dismay , I de-scaled a few holes right through both of my rear spring hangers. That's when I knew it was time for some serious rust removal. I also decided to replace the rear fuel tank with a plastic one since it looked like that was the next thing to go and found a bunch more rust under there. So more de-scaling and wire wheel were I could fit it. I then picked up some phosphoric acid from Home Depot mixed 3 to 1 with water and sprayed all the rusted areas. I let it sit for about 15 minutes the hosed it all down and dried it with my leaf blower. Then I painted it with a quart of por-15 and topcoated with black rustoleum. I used this same method on a model a Ford I restored about 4 years ago and it still looks perfect. I also derusted a few smaller parts by soaking them in a bucket filled with the same solution for a couple of days. It works great.
     

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