How hard is changing an oil pan?

Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
0
Location
MA, cape cod
My oil pan is completely rusted out. I have another good one on my spare engine that ive been trying to sell, and I want to swap that one onto my truck. I have changed oil pans on 302/351 trucks and I had to jack the engine.....What do I have to do with the 7.3 IDI?

btw, tried to search....wouldent work
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
0
Location
MA, cape cod
Question. Will I have to remove the turbo to get enough clearance to remove the oil pan? Trying to get dialed in here to do the job. I know its not going to be fun. I wish the engine crossmember was easy to remove......would make dropping the oil pan real easy!. Also, my engine mount bolts are rusted to hell.....not gonna be fun at all haha!
 

GenLightening

Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Posts
1,917
Reaction score
1
Location
Pukalani, Hawaii
OMB is making is sound like a walk in the park. It will take almost as long to change it in the truck as it would to pull the engine and do a better job. With the 4X4 you may have more things in the way to do the job right the first time.
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
0
Location
MA, cape cod
Yes, I know its going to be a nightmare job... I did one on my 89' 351 bronco, and it was NOT fun. I had to remove the engine mounts and lift the engine untill the intake hit the firewall, and it was barely enough room.

If at all possible though, i would really like to not remove the engine. Ive pulled plenty of 302/351's in these trucks but never a heavy IDI.

I know that these engines sit lower then a EFI SB because the lack of an upper intake.

I just installed my turbo setup and would really love to be able to leave it installed when I jack the engine
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
To make enough room for the pan to come off you will need the turbo out of the way and... Lift the cab about 6 inches. Otherwise you will be finding all kinds of things in the way. Being a 4x4 will kill you. The fan shroud will need to be unbolted and maybe removed along with the fan. Remember this very important thing. Look at how deep the pan is. Now think about the oil pump pickup. It hangs down into that sump and is about 1/4 inch off the bottom... If you don't feel this is true just drain the oil. Then stick a screw driver up the drain hole in the pan.. See how close the pickup is. Now that motor must be jacked up almost to the cross member for the pan to clear. Then you are working where gravity drops everything in your face because everything is above you. Its much easier to work on the motor when its in a stand out of the truck. It will clean easier and rtv is all you use to seal up a new or differant pan... Never ever use a gasket. the factory never did and why a gasket is sold for these motors is beyond my thinking....
 

lotzagoodstuff

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 19, 2007
Posts
2,728
Reaction score
673
Location
Carmel, IN
I know I'll get flamed for this, but I'd scrub it up and epoxy it. The key is to get it super clean and dry, then use something that's oil and fuel resistant like JB Weld. I know it's not better than a replacement pan, but if you drain everything, clean it up and do a nice job it will hold up well.

Good luck whichever way you end up going.
 

Diesel Max

93 F-250 4X4 - 7.3
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Posts
518
Reaction score
0
Location
New Mexico
To make enough room for the pan to come off you will need the turbo out of the way and... Lift the cab about 6 inches. Otherwise you will be finding all kinds of things in the way. Being a 4x4 will kill you. The fan shroud will need to be unbolted and maybe removed along with the fan. Remember this very important thing. Look at how deep the pan is. Now think about the oil pump pickup. It hangs down into that sump and is about 1/4 inch off the bottom... If you don't feel this is true just drain the oil. Then stick a screw driver up the drain hole in the pan.. See how close the pickup is. Now that motor must be jacked up almost to the cross member for the pan to clear. Then you are working where gravity drops everything in your face because everything is above you. Its much easier to work on the motor when its in a stand out of the truck. It will clean easier and rtv is all you use to seal up a new or differant pan... Never ever use a gasket. the factory never did and why a gasket is sold for these motors is beyond my thinking....


Man................ After reading this, I hope I never have to mess with the oil pan....:puke:
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
0
Location
MA, cape cod
uggg.... this is gonna be horrible!

I have tried using EVERYTHING jb weld, etc etc but it just flakes off and leaks worse!


This truck is rusted horribly, and i know all the cab mounts are going to need to be torched off, this is a real nightmare. Thanks for all the help anyway guys
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
0
Location
MA, cape cod
I remember reading something about a "diaper" or cover that is made of fiberglass and goes over the oil pan to seal it up. Anyone ever heard of this, and where i could find one? thanks
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
I know I'll get flamed for this, but I'd scrub it up and epoxy it. The key is to get it super clean and dry, then use something that's oil and fuel resistant like JB Weld. I know it's not better than a replacement pan, but if you drain everything, clean it up and do a nice job it will hold up well.

I'd be out there with the grinder first, then with the welder set on low power for sheetmetal. Which reminds me I wanna check what condition my pan is in next time I'm under the truck (so likely tomorrow, lol), something drips oil on it all the time so I don't expect to see evil dangerous rust, but still...
 

riotwarrior

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Posts
14,778
Reaction score
483
Location
Cawston BC. Canada
uggg.... this is gonna be horrible!

I have tried using EVERYTHING jb weld, etc etc but it just flakes off and leaks worse!


This truck is rusted horribly, and i know all the cab mounts are going to need to be torched off, this is a real nightmare. Thanks for all the help anyway guys

Ok I don't know if you tried it but Seal All is what I like for some leaks...

Drain the oil...run some light solvent through the block...DO NOT RUN ENGINE WITH SOLVENT...to flush out oil even perhaps methylhydrate...something to get rid of all the oil and clean out the leak.

Let it sit for a while and use some brake clean to clean the outside are of the leak off...make sure you have NO rust if possible as well.

Apply Seal All as per directions. Do your best to push a little into the whole(s). This stuff seals gas tanks while leaking if not too bad a leak...also does oil pans same way (dont ask me how I know about either).

Once you have it all built up and nice and cured. Plug run some oil into the engine to flush any remaining solvent out. Plug pan once your sure it's all gone. Change your filter too now eh, LOL add fresh oil and :hail and pray that this works.

No real extra work...just an extra long extra clean oil change in the end.

JM2CW
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Posts
259
Reaction score
0
Location
MA, cape cod
Whell, it looks like I wont be changing my oil pan after all. I removed the crossover pipe and took a wire wheel to the thing. ended up finding 4 pretty decent "pin holes". cleaned it up real good, drained the oil and silver solder brazed the holes! seems to have fixed the leaks!!! im sooooo happy
 
Top