Help!!

79jasper

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You can test that temp switch.
With the engine cold, see if it has continuity. If you do not have a meter that can test this, just plug it in, key on (engine cold), and unplug the high idle solenoid. See if it clicks or tries to move. The solenoid does not have enough power to move the throttle, you have to depress the peddle first. Like the old carburetor engines.

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Large Marge

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This is the best I could do for the bowl. The fluid is coming out by the knob.
 

Large Marge

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Mystery Switch??

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First pic is the female part of plug and second is the male part that is in the block by the oil fill neck. I did some searching earlier and looks like some type of temp switch tied into GP harness.
 

Large Marge

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Sorry the male part is by the thermostat housing.
 

88fordidi

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yeah I definitely recommend getting the one piece wix filter; it looks like your water drain is actually the issue, instead of the filter base which is more typical.. and yeah I would definitely plug that in! The worst that could happen is the sending unit not work and nothing happen
 

Large Marge

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Could that be the reason why it's having trouble starting?

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icanfixall

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Yes is the answer to hard starts. If that plug is not connected to the switch you will not have the injection pump electronic cold advance or the fast idle for warmups. Thats also not the oil fill area your picturing. Thats the thermostat housing and the coolant return to the radiator. No problem. Learning is why your here. Many times the fuel leaks on the filters comes from the top plug thats known as the fuel filter heater. Its a common leak area and many just remove it and JB Weld it over. Nobody has ever been able to tell us what this heater is useful for nor how warm does it get the fuel or when does it work or shutoff. Its just one of those oddities that we deal with. BTW nice pics. Glad you figured out how to post them. Your better at posting them than me. I can't modify them with arrows or circles but maybe someday...
 
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