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riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Very good choice....stop before something goes awry....not after...Wish I could help that's not something I can do anytime soon sorry, someone else can chime in I suppose!
Devon Harley
Full Access Member
honestly the hardest part is getting your wrench to loosen the pass side lower bolt once you get that done adjust it a dime width thats about 3 degree then fully tighten the bolts go for a drive an make sure it did not move use a sharpie so you know where you moved it to and re tighten those bolts not good if it was to move. Advancing the pump turn it to the passenger side and use huge adjustable puliers or a monkey wrench to grab the top of the pump it takes some force but dont just rip up on it or it could change drastically.
justinray
Contributor
Im in port arthur (tx) at the moment working, and have friday off, if you can't figure it out, it could be a possibility.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The best and easist way to know where you timing is was taught to me by Mel at the 2009 rally. A center punch mark made in the injection pump to housing joint tells all. It must be made directly between the two pieces that move. Then when you move the pump the center punch mark circle becomes two differant half circles. In the machinst world its called whitness marks. Makes some other guys problem of reassembly easy. Just match up all the marks. Some of our pump rebuilds in the steam generation business had 15 stages of a pump on one long ass shaft.
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Why do people insist on a dimes width....that's damn near 1/2" it's a dimes thickness!
OLDBULL8
Good Morning Ya'll.
I assume you know what an injector pump looks like, pic is one that is not yet mounted. Now if you look at it, on the oposite end of where the steel lines are connected you will see there are three (3) nuts threaded on three (3) studs, one nut on top, one nut on each side close to the bottom, each nut requires a 9/16" openend wrench to loosen them, there are special C shaped thin box wrenches for the bottom two (2) nuts. pic shows wrench on top of box. Now after marking (center punch) the mounting flange, as icanfixall said above, loosen all three (3) nuts, move (twist) the IP body to your left (or passenger side of the vehicle), about the thickness of a Dime ( a Dime is a US coin), then tighten all three (3) nuts. By doing all of that you have in effect advanced the engine timing about three (3) degrees, moving the IP towards the drivers side will retard the timing. With out a timing device, you cannot tell exactly what the timing is set at. It should be at 8.5 to 9 degrees (before number one cylinder piston is at top dead center--ie:BTDC).
In the first place, what makes you think you have to advance or retard the timing?
In the first place, what makes you think you have to advance or retard the timing?
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Gotcha! Now I know what I'm doing! Lol thanks bull. Bow what about turning my pump up? I know I need a mirror and u take the top bolt of the cover off amd rotate the cover to access it. I turn it cockwise, and when I take the covet off there should be a good bit of diesel come out tight?
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Thanks you for that....it's gotta be my OCD or something but when I hear / read width of a dime...it just drives me up the wall...bad misinformation and when instructing someone who may not know the difference....it could cause catastrophic results with the wrong INFO...
Thanks again Olbull8!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Maybe we should start changeing the terminology to THICKNES of a dime. Width does kinda refer to the diameter. But knowing what many of us already know its hard to mistake what a person posts but this is a great point driven home well too. Terminology spoken wrongly can have a devistateing effect on the unknowing too.
OLDBULL8
Good Morning Ya'll.
You were concerned about messing up the engine by adjusting the timing, which is basically a simple thing to do.
Now you want to adjust, turn up the fuel. Well, unless you have an EGT (Exhaust Gas Tempurature Guage) your messing with something that will mess up your engine. But if you insist on doing it here's how.
On the IP gear tower, below where the oil spout is, is a cover held on by two (2) bolts, remove that cover, then you will see the IP drive gear, There is a dowel pin that drives the IP along with three (3) bolts that hold the IP to the gear, DO NOT loosen them. Now rotate the engine by hand, 15/16" socket on the bolt that holds the damper pulley on, rotate engine so the dowel is at 12 O'clock, with the cover off the IP the hole to adjust the fuel should be there, if not, rotate the engine one more turn, so the dowel is at 12 O'clock. Now you can stick a 5/32" hex key in and adjust the fuel, ONE OR TWO FLATS OF THE HEX IS PLENTY, USUALLY THREE FLATS IS MAXIMUM put both covers back on, use a little RTV on the front cover. Start engine, reving to WOT (Wide Open Throttle) should make the exhaust puff a cloud of smoke black, driving down the road with WOT should make a cloud of black smoke for about 100 feet. The pic below shows the IP driven end with dowel slot and the three bolts that hold the IP to the gear.
CAUTION You may have to rock the engine a little to insert the hex key. DO NOT LEAVE THE HEX KEY IN YOU CAN SHEAR IT OFF
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jlwoods99
Registered User
So which way are you turning the fuel screw and what exactly is this doing to the fuel.
Thanks!
Jim
Thanks!
Jim
