HELP!!! BROKE DOWN 630 MILES FROM HOME!!!

JourneymanD

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Hey everyone... I know it is a long post, but please read through it all... I NEED SOME HELP!!! MY WIFE AND KIDS MOVED TO IDAHO A YEAR AGO(MID JULY 2007), AND I AM STILL STUCK IN CALIF@#YA TRYING TO GET STUFF MOVED.

I drove my E350 box truck from cali to twin falls idaho last wednesday. I have just put a used engine in this truck that had about 76000 miles on it. the engine came out of a city truck, and is a 1989 7.3L non turbo IDI. everything looked great, it started right away after they carried a single battery out to it at the wrecking yard it was at. fired right off in les then 5-8 secs of cranking. sounded great, and a friend of mine who is a mechanic at the local ford dealer listened to it and said it sounded great. no signs of moisture in the oil cap, no excessive oil from the CDR , etc.

Driving around town showed a rapid rise of EGT into the yellow (ISSPRO EG temp gage tapped into the outlet of the passenger side manifold) on flat ground to mild inclines running at about 1/2 to 3/4 load capacity.(I had a Harley Heritage Softtail and a big oak roll top desk in the back.) I had never had an EGT gage before, and am still new to diesels. still, it seemed to run ok, and if i pulled my foot out of it, the temp dropped back to 300-600 pretty quick.

I left wed night for my first run from concord, CA to Twin Falls, ID a trip of 630 miles. I was pulling a trailer that I estimate weighed about 8500-9500 lbs, plus the load in the back of the truck that had the motorcycle, the desk, a rototiller, and somelight shelving, and a few other odds and ends. I dont think i was at capacity, though I didn't have time to roll the weighmaster before depature. I hit the first hill near my house on the way to the freeway, and it is about a 6% grade that is real short. Temps shot up quick, and though I was licking 1000-1100, I was able to crawl over it at about 30 mph with no running start at the bottom. I pulled it for the first 100 miles, and was running around 800-950 while doing about 55-60mph on the flats, but when I got to the first grade at Auburn, Ca, I had my first real issue. I was pulling a long grade, and temps jumped to 1250. I was in seconed (C6) and crawlling at less then 30mph. I couldn't get the temps to go below 1000, and after a moment, i had white smoke rolling from under the truck. I managed to get the truck off the freeway, and pulled into a parking lot. The engine sounded ok, though it was hot, and the trans(new rebuilt less then 300miles) was hot and slipping a bit, and not shifting happily. I left the rig running in the lot, and as I checked things over, it cooled off. I don't think the water temp ever hit the middle of the normal range on the temp gage. It turns out the smoke was from the oil seeping out of the back edge of the valve covers and burning off on the overly hot exhaust, as the oil pooled up at the back of the valve covers. I decided to turn around and try to limp the truck back home. After I started heading back, the truck seemed to run great, though the EGT was still higher then I would have liked. I got back home, and dropped the trailer, the headed back out to hit the first hill by the house. the truck pulled ok, the temps were in the yellow over the first hill and i topped it doing about 35mph.

I went ahead and hit the road, and started my trip less the trailer. I was able to keep EGT below 1050(start of the red on my gage), but I was only able to hit 50-55 on the flats with an EGT of around 800-900. any faster, and EGT would go up. around 60-63(all could get) it was sitting at the middle of the yellow. at 50-55, a 600 mile trip is miserable in a noisy uncomfortable truck.

Now here is where the misery really started. climbing grades between sacramento and reno was rather un-fun. I pulled 30 mph with EGT held in the 850-1000 range(mid yellow on the gage). After Reno, running on the flats, it was 50-55mph running around 800-900. going downgrade, EGT drops to 300-600 with light throttle. When I started approaching ELKO, there are two horrid grades I had to climb. Golconda summit, and Iron Point. I dropped to second, and maintained throttle to keep EGT mid Yellow. this meant a top speed of 25 MPH and many minutes of misery to climb these. the water temp actually dropped during climb, and the trans never slipped, but the engine just hummed along not being very happy about the pain I was inflicting on it. It took forever to get to the top, and after i crested the top, EGT dropped back to 600 or so. As I climbed the last several smaller grades into Wells, NV the engine started to waver and stumble up grade, and I was concerned that I might not make my destination. After I started into Idaho up highway 93, there are miles of long steep grades that stairstep up into Twin Falls. the truck was unhappy(as was I) about climbing these. I insisted that it keep going or Die, either one would be a relief, but it kept trudging. After I made elevation, I ran the last 30 miles or so flat. I ran at 55-60mph, and 900-950EGT, but the truck seemed ok.

When I finally got to my other house, I was exhausted. I had been on the road behind the wheel for 21 hours straight. I only stopped for fuel, and once to beat a hole in the bottom of my muffler in the hopes that a clogged muffler was causing the despair. I ate, showered, and went to bed. when I got up the next morning, I started the truck, and it roared to life immediately. the engine sounds just like it did at the wrecking yard, and runs nice and smooth. there is a little shudder when i run the revs up and hold em steady. I called a friend, also a diesel mechanic, and he said the shudder might be a bad load of fuel with water in it. I drained the water sep, but there wasn't much h2o in it. he seemed to think it was a exhaust back pressure issue causing the high EGT/low power. I took the exhaust loose in front of the muffler, leaving just the y pipe with about 2 feet of piping. a test drive showed not much improvement, though I was able to hit 65mph before hitting mid yellow on the gage, and lightening the throttle would drop EGT to about 850 steady.

So here is the final list of issues:

High EGTs under all conditions. grades under load skyrocket EG temps to unhappy levels. Running downgrade temps dive to 300-600. At idle, temps are at 300 steady, and running up the throttle in park/neutral only raises temps to about 350.

I never saw as much as a single whisp of smoke from the exhaust, under load or otherwise.(except for the oil burning off from the valve cover seep pointing up grade at Auburn)

Fuel economy SUCKS... About 10MPG. It is difficult to start hot. if It only sits 3 or 4 mins it starts fine, but if it sits for more then about 10 mins, it is a bear to get to light off again. if it sits for a few hours, it will light right up in 5-8 secs of cranking.

The coolant temp never went above middle of normal.

The old engine I had in it was also a 7.3L NA IDI. It had a cavitation issue, and was building pressure in the cooling system because of pinholes in a cylinder. it had a burnt intake valve, and a bad injector pump belching white smoke out the exhaust. It pulled these same grades at 45-50mph with about 8500# of trailer, and truck loaded to capacity. all the time and money I spent to fix those issues has yielded a useless truck.

I bought this truck to move my family from Cali to Idaho. It has been a financial drain since I got it, and I still need to use it to haul the trailer 3 or 4 more times(got toys and a CNC mill to haul still). I was going to go to the dark side and do a CTD re-power, but decided to put a rebuilt C6 and used 7.3L IDI in it because of the time factor of fabrication and fitting. I really regret that decision now.

CAN ANYONE PLEASE SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS P.O.S. FOR ME? ANY IDEAS WHAT MY PROBLEM MIGHT BE?? IF ANYONE HAS ANOTHER ALTERNATIVE FOR ME (GN HOTSHOT A LOAD OR TWO FOR ME OR A LOANER TURBO 1 TON I CAN USE??...I KNOW ITS A LONG SHOT, BUT I AM OUT OF OPTIONS)

OUT OF MONEY, TIME AND PATIENCE AND DESPARATE FOR HELP,

DYLAN TODD
925 260 3095
 

sle2115

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First off, you might as well not watch the in dash gauge. When you notice a problem with it, it will be too late. It is no more than an idiot light with a gauge attached that will peg if the engine gets too hot, but otherwise, really tells you nothing, other than you have a connection to the sender (which is just a switch, not a variable temp sensor). My first thought, get a real water temp gauge. I would buy a $10 at Autozone or wherever before I trusted the one in the dash.

Second, did you move the Injector pump when you put the motor in? Sounds to me like you need to have it timed to start with. I would think if you had a plugged exhaust and those kinds of temps, you would have a glowing exhaust part somewhere. I'm guessing you have 4.10 to 1 rear gears and that is probably the best it's going to do mileage wise, but proper timing will probably help that as well. The not starting hot may also be a sign of an injector pump failing. You can try the cool water trick, but don't do it on a HOT engine, which it sounds like once yours starts to cool, it starts ok. I would try to have someone time it, if you can. If not, you might play with turning the injector pump (IP) a little each way and then test driving it while keeping one eye on the EGT and find a spot where it doesn't heat so fast and still runs good.

Good luck!
 

RKOCH

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I had an Injection pump go bad and did excartly what yours is. It over fueled horrably EGT of 300 @ idle is way high. I would say you need a pump and a set of injectors.
 

JourneymanD

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I had an Injection pump go bad and did excartly what yours is. It over fueled horrably EGT of 300 @ idle is way high. I would say you need a pump and a set of injectors.


Wouldn't overfueling cause black smoke belching under most condiditions? never even saw as much as a whisp...


Sle2115... re: moving the pump, I don't believe i bumped the timing on it. I was very careful around that when I was slinging and hoisting it in. with the first engine, I was averageing 11mpg with a bad pump and a hurt engine... seems like it should do a little better with a "better" engine... even if only marginally.
 

sle2115

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Wouldn't overfueling cause black smoke belching under most condiditions? never even saw as much as a whisp...


Sle2115... re: moving the pump, I don't believe i bumped the timing on it. I was very careful around that when I was slinging and hoisting it in. with the first engine, I was averageing 11mpg with a bad pump and a hurt engine... seems like it should do a little better with a "better" engine... even if only marginally.


Possible it was never timed to begin with. I can tell you from my buddies experience, timing will affect fuel consumption. The white smoke could have also been air in the system or water. I experienced an issue with a fog out of antifreeze where I was pulling a big hill, the CDR was spewing oil into the intake and I fogged about a mile or road so thick you couldn't see behind my truck. I changed the CDR valve, against all recommendations, and have pulled much more load up much larger grades and never seen that issue again. I was getting ready to do head gaskets, but just keep driving it now, with no issues thus far (going on two years).
 

Shadetreemechanic

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If I had to venture a guess, it sounds like you have a worn out ip that is out of time. I'd check the timing first cause its cheaper.
Good luck
 

JourneymanD

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ANYONE ELSE GOT ANY SUGGESTIONS?

I will check the timing marks and see if they are close to lined up. lining em up is about the best i can do for the moment. gonna be real hard to see though as it is a van, and the pump sits under the cowl. are the base starting marks on the top of the pump where the mount flange meets the gearcase?

thanks again.

Dylan
 

RLDSL

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I will check the timing marks and see if they are close to lined up. lining em up is about the best i can do for the moment. gonna be real hard to see though as it is a van, and the pump sits under the cowl. are the base starting marks on the top of the pump where the mount flange meets the gearcase?

thanks again.

Dylan

Unfortunately, unless that's the original pump on that thing,the timing mark isnt going to tell you much. you can take a peek and see where it is, but lacking timing tools, the butt-o-meter is going to tell you more than that line is.
It does sound like that pump is on borrowed time though , You should have been getting some black smoke pulling at that altitude, if it wasn't , that thing is on it's last legs. you might be cash ahead to take care of it while you've landed somewhere instead of heading out on another 800+ mile run over the big mountains with something that might end up sticking you in the backside with one heck of a tow bill.
 

suv7734

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Dylan,

From your description you are probably running about 20,000 lbs GCWR. That's a lot for a NA engine. Since I don't see anything in your sig about the specifics of the box van I will assume it has a 4.10:1 rear diff (Dana 70) and you are running stock tires (about 32" tall). With the C6 your ratios are 2.46:1 first gear, 1.46:1 second and 1:1 in drive. Based on these numbers you are only running 1,600 RPM at 25 MPH (in second gear) which is not near enough to keep the EGT's at a reasonable level given the load. You really need to be in first gear which will get a lot more air flowing through there. In first gear at 25 MPH you will be about 2,650 RPM which is going to go a long way in keeping the EGT's under control. With that load 2,500-3,000 RPM would be the range I would be looking to run in on a significant grade. That being said there may still be a pump or more specifically a pump timing issue. As the injectors get older they pop off at a lower pressure which has the same effect as retarding the timing, which results in higher EGT's. Try shifting the rig down to first on the long grades and I'll bet you see the EGT's go down as well.
Just a thought.
Good luck and travel safe.
 

JourneymanD

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STILL STUCK IN "SUCKVILLE"

, the butt-o-meter is going to tell you more than that line is.

you might be cash ahead to take care of it while you've landed somewhere instead of heading out on another 800+ mile run over the big mountains with something that might end up sticking you in the backside with one heck of a tow bill.

By butt-o-meter I believe you mean nudging the timing and road test by way of the trial and error method til i find an acceptable "sweet spot"?

also, I don't mean to drive it back this way. I haven't been able to source a pump here. timing sucks for me as my presence is required back in cali in an un-negotiable way. I will fly back tomorrow, and try to source a pump this week so when i come up in a couple of weeks i can change it out and try again. meanwhile i gotta find a truck to tow my trailer up next time so i can get some result out of the next trip up.

a few posts have said we can source a pump at autozone, but the store and online both say a Champion rebuilt is not available online or in the store. HAS ANYBODY GOT A STOCK NUMBER TO GET ONE THERE? kragen lists one for over 600.00. I like the 250.00 price that was quoted at autozone on the forum post i read earlier today.

ANYBODY ELSE GOT $.02 TO DONATE TO MY CAUSE?

THANKS,

DYLAN
 

BigRigTech

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Go to a IH truck dealership, they sell the pumps for $400 with a core. Sounds like the IP is getting bad or possibly some leaking injector's over fueling.
 

Joe Mc

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BigRigTech,

Can you buy a Ford spec 6.9 IP from International?
From what I have heard the Ford version has a higher rpm limit.
Midwest has both the International and Ford 83-87 6.9 Injection pumps and they have different part numbers.
 

BigRigTech

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They showed me a 6.9/7.3 catalogue with the Ford pump part numbers in it...And I mean the correct Ford part number too...LOL....I just priced one 2-3 weeks ago from our local IH truck dealership while I was picking up some parts for a truck I was fixing.
 

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