help a noob identify these components

[Neal Evans]

So I have a pretty bad diesel leak underneath. I thought it was coming from fuel return lines, injectors, etc., which were in fact leaking pretty badly. Replaced the fuel return lines, caps, new injectors, new glow plugs, and a new fuel filter. Everything is now dry as a bone on top.

However as you see in the attached video, I still have a bad leak. What are these two components in the video?

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0yhwJJHVx9u8olBZHwEgXPBsg#Birmingham

This is a '91 F-240 7.3L IDI.

Thank you!

 

[Cubey]

Not coming from the fuel filter or it's related lines?

 

[chillman88]

Take a close look at the fuel line going into your injection pump. That leak at the back looks like it's coming from the drain hole in the valley pan up top.

I'm not sure what the "other" part you're referring to is? All I'm seeing is fuel leaking onto the starter?

 

[Neal Evans]

It found it leaking in the valley. Loose nut to the injection pump. It was down there and had to take off 2 to get to it. But got it tightened!

problem solved!

thanks for suggestion; y’all got me on the right track.

 

[Neal Evans]

One last thing. Does anyone have any tricks for tightening the hard to reach nuts on the injector pump?

I have one at the bottom (~5 o'clock facing the pump) that needs to be tightened. I don't see a good way to get down there to it--even if I remove the 3 lines above it...

 

[Philip1]

I find I can get it with a stubby wrench although most people bend and grind a standard wrench to reach.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I find I can get it with a stubby wrench although most people bend and grind a standard wrench to reach.

I'm pretty sure that he was talking about a nut on the injector lines. A crow's foot with a short extension is your best bet.

 

[Philip1]

I'm pretty sure that he was talking about a nut on the injector lines. A crow's foot with a short extension is your best bet.

Lol. My bad. I was referring to the ip mounting nuts with my advice. I would agree that a crows foot would be the best bet for the injection lines.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Lol. My bad. I was referring to the ip mounting nuts with my advice. I would agree that a crows foot would be the best bet for the injection lines.

I thought the same thing at first. Then I read the part about fuel leaking from it and I understood what he meant.

 

[Neal Evans]

I was able to get down there with a crow's foot wrench I got at Harbor Freight. Of course, I cross-threaded one of my new injectors putting everything back together, and had to replace with an old injector (hopefully Napa will let me swap the cross-threaded one).

Anyway, no more leaks! Running like a champ with hardly any smoke! Thanks for your help.

 

[Big Bart]

You should also think about setting your timing. (This forum highly recommends after changing engines, IP, or injectors.) Often simply changing injectors will cause your timing to be off.

1) You can accidently move the IP if a little loose tugging/pulling to get the injector lines off.
2) Your new injectors likely have a different PSI at which they open. Opening a little sooner or a little later changes the trucks timing.
3) As your IP wears down it can change the PSI of the injection, thus change the timing.
4) If you have never had it set, could have been off when you bought the truck.

So check htat timing and glad you found your leak!

 

[Fixnstuff]

One last thing. Does anyone have any tricks for tightening the hard to reach nuts on the injector pump?

I have one at the bottom (~5 o'clock facing the pump) that needs to be tightened. I don't see a good way to get down there to it--even if I remove the 3 lines above it...

I WAS ABLE TO GET ON THAT ONE and the center feed line flare nut with a fairly short (Not a stubby) and fairly thin 5/8 in open end wrench made in China, like these (see text below image):

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It looks like the image upload feature did not work so THIS is the URL for the image:
https://image.made-in-china.com/202f0j00vlRGsMUrbKoc/High-Quality-Open-End-Wrenches.webp

If you can't get on it with the first try, flip the wrench over to the other face where the same open end will have a different angle NOT flipping the wrench end for end but just turning it over using the same open end. One way or the other you should be able to get enough bite on it to turn it a little bit and then just keep flipping the wrench over until you get it tightened.

That being said, I PLAN to make a special wrench from a Craftsman Obstruction Wrench, one end for the IP Timing bolts and the other end a 5/8 in. 12 point Flare Wrench for the hard lines and feed line connected to the IP.

I was going to wait until after I make it but since the replacement switch on my good old bench grinder is burnt out, I don't have a replacement bench grinder yet. Therefore I'll just post my idea in a new post later today to see what people think of my idea and if they think it will work well. I'm very optimistic about it. I think I will label the topic, "My idea for making a combination IP timing bolt and IP Fuel line flare wrench in one wrench."
So watch for that post and we'll see what people here will think of it. I'm also going to post it at FTE because I like that group and the old timers who post there.