Heater hose ID

[Lovely Bunny]

Hi all,

I need to replace a heater hose that connects to the engine block. On the photo below (thanks to cre1992) you can see where the hose connects at the sticky-outy thing right above and between cylinders 1 and 3. I'm struggling to figure out what's the correct hose to order. Thank you!

 

[Lovely Bunny]

This is for an '88 7.3 econoline.

 

[Big Bart]

I just used regular heater hose for my F250 truck sold by the foot at the auto parts store. Not aware of Ford putting any special bends in these but maybe they did for the vans. (The ones I took out of my truck were standard heater hose.)

Then I bought some hose covering/shielding and slid it over the hoses so my fender well, isolator, and some other odd and ends did not eventually wear/rub through it as it vibrated due to the egine. I do not recall the ID size of the hose, so just bring a piece with you.

Also get some more for the hose from the water pump (As I recall.) to the other side of the heater core. Older hoses do not sometimes want to seal back up.

Put on all new clamps! Get the radiator fluid with SCA or buy SCA and strips to add to your coolant. Highly recommend a new thermostat, seems like they go shortly after when you do radiator work. Only buy a Motorcraft thermostat, many have had issues with other brands.

I do not recall but believe both hoses use the same ID/OD.

Just a thought, you could call Ford or or call the auto parts store, ask them to look it up if these are special hoses or just hose by the foot. I am sure others with vans will weigh in shortly.

You also may want to think about the hard to get to common issues while your motor is already out. Oil cooler seals, water pump, valve covers, injector return lines, front and rear main seals, etc. Beats doing so while in the van.

Let us know how it turns out!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Then I bought some hose covering/shielding and slid it over the hoses so my fender well, isolator, and some other odd and ends did not eventually wear/rub through it as it vibrated due to the egine.

I just use pieces of the old hose for this. I slit it lengthwise, slide it over the new heater hose, and use zip ties to hold it in place.

I do not recall the ID size of the hose, so just bring a piece with you.

Assuming that it's the same size as the trucks use, it's 5/8".

 

[Lovely Bunny]

Thanks guys. The one that's in there is molded but I suppose I will get the standard flexible hose and make it work. I appreciate the suggestions!

 

[Big Bart]

Looks like Rock Auto has some with a 90 degree bend you could check out too.

Says both a 5/8" ID.

All the best.

 

[Lovely Bunny]

Oh cool, thanks Bradd. They have the molded ones at my local O'reillys also so think at this point I'll drain the system and get in there and see whats what, and then go to O'reilleys and buy whatever seems like the best replacement.

 

[Cubey]

Yep, I used bulk heater hose from O'Reilly on my 85 E350.

A couple of pics of the hose/area:

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[chillman88]

For what it's worth, (and mine is a truck, not a van) I bought the premium fleet hose that NAPA sells. It's about twice as thick as the generic hose and I think it will hold up better long term. Time will tell.

 

[Big Bart]

Yep, I used bulk heater hose from O'Reilly on my 85 E350.

A couple of pics of the hose/area:

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You must be registered for see images attach

Did the one you take out have any special bends?

 

[Cubey]

Did the one you take out have any special bends?

No. I replaced it exactly how it was. And it was probably the original heater hoses. The bottom rad hose was original, but not the top. I replaced upper also just to be safe.

 

[Big Bart]

Many folks forget to do the heater hoses, return hoses, and other hoses. (Just did the 8 hoses in my wifes Escalade last year.) Often folks just do the upper and lower radiator hoses. Then the other ones break and leave them on the side of the road. So good for you.

Something I have learned, not sure about IDI's, but on most gassers if you change fluid, hoses, radiator, or flush the radiator many times the thermostat dies shortly after. Not sure why but I always recommend a new thermostat when upgrading your cooling system.

 

[Cubey]

Many folks forget to do the heater hoses, return hoses, and other hoses. (Just did the 8 hoses in my wifes Escalade last year.) Often folks just do the upper and lower radiator hoses. Then the other ones break and leave them on the side of the road. So good for you.

Something I have learned, not sure about IDI's, but on most gassers if you change fluid, hoses, radiator, or flush the radiator many times the thermostat dies shortly after. Not sure why but I always recommend a new thermostat when upgrading your cooling system.

My RV's thermostat didn't die after, but I replaced it along with the weak fan clutch.

 

[Lovely Bunny]

thanks again guys. I replaced my radiator not long ago and did the thermostat and water pump at that time, along with related hoses, but neglected to do this engine to heater line. Just the other day noticed a little wet spot on the street, pulled off the doghouse, and found the obvious eak right where the heater hose comes into the engine. it's a bit of a tough spot to suss out the shape of the entire hose without doing some digging but it does appear to have a 90 degree bend right off the engine. We shall soon see...

 

[Cubey]

thanks again guys. I replaced my radiator not long ago and did the thermostat and water pump at that time, along with related hoses, but neglected to do this engine to heater line. Just the other day noticed a little wet spot on the street, pulled off the doghouse, and found the obvious eak right where the heater hose comes into the engine. it's a bit of a tough spot to suss out the shape of the entire hose without doing some digging but it does appear to have a 90 degree bend right off the engine. We shall soon see...

Mine works fine with a straight hose pointing up. It's been that way for 2.5 years since I replaced it, and that's how it was for decades before that.