Well my truck started burning oil again. 6 months ago it used to burn almost a gallon in 2 weeks(1,000) miles. I replaced the cdr and used a better oil and it stopped burning oil. Now over the past month I have noticed I am losing a quart a week. The cdr does seem to be letting a god amount of oil in so I figured maybe I need to clean it. But I checked my radiator and that was about a gallon low. So I checked all over the motor and found no leaks. When I first got the truck 6 months ago, a compression check tested 420-450 psi in all cylinders. I'm going to test the compression again and see. But does this sound like headgaskets? It still runs fine and does not smoke blue or white.
Head gaskets?
- Thread starter S-west
- Start date
hesutton
The Anti-Anderson
Check a used oil analysis. That can tell you if you have coolant getting into the oil and how much contamination (and what type) is making it's way into the oil. It's not a magic diagnose all for the engine, but it certainly adds good information you'll need to decide which way you need to go.
Heath
Heath
Last edited:
hesutton
The Anti-Anderson
Blackstone Labs
CAT SOS
Polaris Laboratories
These are a few places. I've used Blackstone in the past.
Heath
CAT SOS
Polaris Laboratories
These are a few places. I've used Blackstone in the past.
Heath
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I have used Blackstone many times. They give a good oil anaylisis for the price. If coolant is found in the oil at very low levels your bearing material will slowly be eaten away but the oil will show you that. Just contact blackstone and they will send you the sample containers free or at least they did the lat time I needed any. I recall they send you 6 sample containers at a time. Take a sample. Put it in the bag and then the sample and bagged container in another larger container. Take to a post office to ship after paying a small fee for postage.. Simple..
So I compression checked all my cylinders on the driver side. All 450 psi. Then got to the second cylinder back on the passenger side and found oil on the glow plug. I can't get the adapter in to compression test it. But what does this mean. Headgaskets, cracked head? I don't know if I can fix it so it worries me quite a bit
Actually I got the adapter on after trying a little more. 440 psi of compression. what is going on!!? It also sounded different than the other cylinders though. Each compression stroke was like thumping more than the rest.
hesutton
The Anti-Anderson
That alone doesn't mean the head is cracked or the gasket is bad. A bad valve seal or guide could cause oil to leak down into the cylinder putting oil into the precup on a non-running engine (like when doing a compression test). When the engine is running that oil will be burned with the fuel.
No oil in coolant? But, you are using coolant correct?
Heath
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The oil on that glow plug really means nothing. Its nearly impossible to know if the oil was from the valve covers and it got on the plug when you removed it or that oil is from the cylinder. From the compression reading I'd say your fine. Now about the differant sounds. Are you removing all the glow plugs and then testing each cylinder. If not your doing the test with a lot of strain on the starter and batteries. Take all the plugs out so the engine can spin easier and faster. Do not squirt oil into the cylinders hoping to increase the compression. That will do nothing because the oil is going into a precup chamber. We have an oil cooler spraying oil up under the pistons all the time so thats making a better oil seal on the rings. Much better than oil squirted down a precup. 450 lbs is a good engine too. My rebuilt engine came in at 530 but I did plenty of work to get that..
And ok. Maybe valve seals I'm guessing according to what you guys are saying. Because my truck is consuming oil somewhere. And ya I took 1 plug out at a time, But next time ill take them all out. It could still be the cdr valve because I see oil coming out of that and it didn't have oil coming out for the first few months of me putting the new one on, is there a way to clean this? Because an 80 dollar part should last longer than that.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Every cylinder has the number cast into the intake manifold runners near that cylinder joint to the heads. Clean off the dirt that covers them up. Also on the passenger side of the intake air horn is the fireing order.. Nice.. Now ya all know where things are... Nice...
f-two-fiddy
Registered User
Do you have a cuffing sound thru the intake at idle?
Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
Keep in mind the CDR valve itself has nothing to do with there being oil IN the CDR valve. The only thing the CDR valve really does is in the case of a very unlikely engine runaway caused by oil from the crankcase drawn through the CDR, at a certain level of flow it will snap shut and close off the passage from the the crankcase to the intake manifold. If there is too much vacuum (depression) being created in the crankcase it will regulate it by closing. It does not control anything during normal operation.
So if there is oil collecting in it, it is being carried there by the blowby stream.
If the cylinder in question makes noise in the intake during compression test, likely something is wrong with valves, guides or springs. I have diassembled the compression tester before and used it to put air into the cylinder to see where it is going. Poor man's leak down tester!
So if there is oil collecting in it, it is being carried there by the blowby stream.
If the cylinder in question makes noise in the intake during compression test, likely something is wrong with valves, guides or springs. I have diassembled the compression tester before and used it to put air into the cylinder to see where it is going. Poor man's leak down tester!
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