Hard start! Bad Batteries?

[Kris K]

Ok my trucks giving me problems.

Yesterday morning it started fine but kind of sluggish, i get to work let it sit for 10 hours go out, and let the GP warm up for 10 sec. I try to start it, it starts then die's. I hold the GP for 5 sec, and try to start it the engine turns over SLOW. so i get out and wiggle the batt cables, and try it again it spins a little faster then go's back to slow cranking. I get out take cables of clean them but on the passanger side the negative cables clamp is broke but still holds on to the terminal, but not tight. I can wiggle it. I get back in try to start it it spins slow then picks up speed, and finally starts. I get home turn it off try to start it and it fires right up. I went back out 3hours later and it fires right up. I go to bed get up and it cranks over but sluggish it started. So what do you think it is?

I know the negative cable on the passanger side is not tight.

Also the driver side batterie has low water when I pop the cap off I havent checked the other one.

Batteries are 2 1/2 years old, starter is about 2 years old. I do need to clean the cables a little better, since theres corrosion around them.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

 

[tuckerd1]

these engines have to spin fast to start easily. You have a electrical connection issue as you have noted.


Get all of your wiring in good shape, charge your batt good and have them load tested. Replace batt as needed.

If this doesn't solve the problem you may have a starter going bad.

Keep good, strong batteries in your truck. I don't spend a lot of money on high cost batteries, but I generally replace them every 3-4 years. Sometimes I reuse the diesel batteries in other vehicles. Like this year my Toyo pu battery went dead and one of my old F350 batt. went in it.

 

[Kris K]

Thanks

I went and got all the stuff i figured i would need. I'll go out in a while and give it a try.

 

[Kris K]

well i went out and cleaned the batteries, replaced teh broken negetive side. filled the water up in the batteries. I started it up and let it idle for abotu 20 min. When i went out I shut it off, and tried to start it right back up it cranked slow then fired up. I did this a couple times so see what it's doing.

SO

I guess I could go clean the connections going to the starter and see wha that dose. I got a volt meter but i don;t know where to setting to set it to see if it's charging.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Also while checking/cleaning connections, don't forget the cable to the starter and make sure ground cable are also clean and snug.
The cold weather does tend to bring more of a focus on good clean tight connections and fully charged/good batteries.
Definitly load test the batteries. A little low on fluid ya might want to give em a charge too.

 

[tuckerd1]

well i went out and cleaned the batteries, replaced teh broken negetive side. filled the water up in the batteries. I started it up and let it idle for abotu 20 min. When i went out I shut it off, and tried to start it right back up it cranked slow then fired up. I did this a couple times so see what it's doing.

SO

I guess I could go clean the connections going to the starter and see wha that dose. I got a volt meter but i don;t know where to setting to set it to see if it's charging.

You may want to charge the batteries longer. 20 min is not much for batteries that have not been receiving a good charge.

 

[Kris K]

I went and cleaned the starter cables. Same thing crankes slow.

So you think i need to let it run longer to charge the batteries?

I put teh meter on the line coming from the altinater over to teh silinoids and it was giving power.

SO I;m lost on what to do next.

Maybe i do need a starter how do i check it to see? Is there a way?

 

[Kris K]

oK this is what i've done i got a digital meter (One i know how to use).

Both batteris have 12.84v wehn the truck is off when it's running it has 14.21v and climbing since it's being charged by the altinator. The line from the altinator to the batteries reads 14.33v.

So my guess is that everything is fine with the batteries, and the starter is going south.

So if it is the starter which brand is the best.

 

[82fordtruck]

I think you're gettin way ahead of yourself. I'd get new cables FIRST. I had mine done for $85, I think at a local battery shop using welding cable.

Next, new batteries. You'll be surprised how often that's it.

Last, a set of brushes in that starter. You'll spend less doing this whole thing than the cost for a rebuilt starter.

 

[Exekiel69]

Last, a set of brushes in that starter. You'll spend less doing this whole thing than the cost for a rebuilt starter.

I'm interested in this lat part, where do you get the brushes for the starter? also can you get the solenoid for it since many times the starter is fine and the solenoid is the one that went bad?

 

[Kris K]

I plan on getting the batteries tested tonight at Autozone I beleive they do it for free. I talked to a friend that works at a Ford dealer in my home town he said it mit be the batteries cold cranking amps. Even though it shows 12v.

 

[soulpatchfr]

just make sure the batteries are no longer connected to each other when you have them tested (or when you charge them)... it'll give false readings if not.
be sure to lean the terminals on the pax fender starter relay, too.
a little dielectric grease on all connections wouldn't hurt anything.

i agree that you should get your cables in order first.
my money says you shlould spend the $100 on a new pair of 850cca (or higher) batts & be done with it.

 

[82fordtruck]

I completely agree.

I found them once at a local electrical shop. You can't get them at parts stores. I bet a solenoid will do it also. I don't think the starter is his problem after he described those cables.

 

[Kris K]

So you think it's the batteries or cables? I;ll get the batteries checked tonight. That should tell alot about whats wrong.

 

[82fordtruck]

I think it's the cables, but you need to get the batteries tested too. It could be both.