Governor Question

[IHcornbinder]

So i just changed the pump on my 86 6.9. My buddy a the wrecking yard found me pump from a 94 turbo with only 98k on it from an f350. I couldn't be more happy with the results. I cannot believe the power my truck has now. However i have one complaint, It seems that the governor is set much lower than my old pump. I don't have a tach in the truck but i do have a test&tune with a tach and i could only get it to turn 2900rmps in the driveway. I was hooking on to the signal wire on Alternator (its a chevy CS130With the old pump i could run the truck past 85mph to around 90 or so before it would level out and now its 75mph. Also, when you stick your foot in it the trany (C6) cannot shift fast enough to keep up. It will run up on the gov for a good 2-3 seconds before it shifts. I guess i'm getting the benefit of the engine de-fueling before a shift but it is kind of annoying when you go to pass someone and your waiting on the tranny. I have adjusted the vacuum modulator the best i can with out replacing it with a custom adjustable aftermarket one. But the real problem is the governor and i would like to know the proper way to tweek it on the truck. I really don't want to pull a good running pump and send it off to be bench tested and i don't trust the local diesel shops here. Can anyone help me out please?

 

[ah1988ford]

I wouldnt touch the govener the engine can run away if you screw something up, btw do you have the kickdown rod to the c6 installed when you say you adjusted the vaccume modulator do you mean the one on the tranny or ip ? The one on the ip is the one you should be adjusting to make it shift right and you also should install the kickdown to the ip to make it shift right if you havent already. Make sure the vaccume modulator on the tranny works like it should still.

 

[The Warden]

I know your pump came out of a Ford, but I can't help but wonder if it's a rebuilt pump that was rebuilt to IH's specifications? IH set the governor lower on the engines that went into their trucks than they did on the engines that went into Ford trucks...IIRC IH's governor setting was in the 2800 RPM range, compared with 3400 RPM for Ford.

I'm not sure what can be done about it. I know that some have put in higher-RPM springs on Ford-calibrated pumps, but I don't know if anyone's tried to modify an IH-calibrated pump...

 

[IHcornbinder]

I wouldnt touch the govener the engine can run away if you screw something up, btw do you have the kickdown rod to the c6 installed when you say you adjusted the vaccume modulator do you mean the one on the tranny or ip ? The one on the ip is the one you should be adjusting to make it shift right and you also should install the kickdown to the ip to make it shift right if you havent already. Make sure the vaccume modulator on the tranny works like it should still.

Thanks for the input. Yes i have the kick down linkage on. I have it adjusted where it wont kick down until about the last 20% on the go pedal. The vacuum modulator is adjustable both at the IP and at the tranny, but i think i have it just about perfect. If i advance it any further it wants to hang on to the gear a little long when your light on the pedal and backing it up further makes it want to lug (shift early) under light throttle. Despite adjusting both of these i get very minimal change under WOT in regard to the shift point. As i understand it, and i may be wrong, under WOT (high line pressure) the up shift points are set in a C6?

I know your pump came out of a Ford, but I can't help but wonder if it's a rebuilt pump that was rebuilt to IH's specifications? IH set the governor lower on the engines that went into their trucks than they did on the engines that went into Ford trucks...IIRC IH's governor setting was in the 2800 RPM range, compared with 3400 RPM for Ford.

I'm not sure what can be done about it. I know that some have put in higher-RPM springs on Ford-calibrated pumps, but I don't know if anyone's tried to modify an IH-calibrated pump...

This pump has not been rebuilt. It still had all of the original locktite on the bolts and has no re-man stamping or stickers. Now my old pump had been rebuilt by Standine in 89. It was the original for the truck and had been manufactured in 85. I don't recall getting the manufacture date off of the new pump but i can get the numbers off of it. I don't know if it came from a pick-up, fleet truck or u-haul but it has the vin# of the truck on the tag, i guess i could try decoding that. IDK, maybe my old pump was malfunctioning because it was way down on power and i was getting smoke at idle. The new pump has my truck running like a new truck and i am happy as a pig in $hit, other than the lack of top end....

Is there any way i can try just swapping the spring from my old pump to my new one without compromising the gov???

 

[IHcornbinder]

Ok. So i know you guys may be inclined to say "Don't F with it", "It will run away on you" and "You'll shoot your eye out kid" or maybe not say anything at all but I'm asking if it can be done, not that it should be done. I would like to know from someone who has had the gov apart if the spring swap would be possible with the IP in the truck and any wisdom or breakdown specs would be appreciated. Keep in mind this wouldn't be modifying the gov like stretching the spring or shimming the spring, i would be swapping it with a know working part. Really what I'm looking for is an easier way than tearing apart a good running pump if there is a simple adjustment that can be made.

 

[chris142]

My owners manual says mine is governed between 3300 and 3800 depending on load. Mine wil hit 3800 every time.

 

[91idi]

Yes you can. There are 3 springs I know of: 2500( or close for the international trucks) 3300 (f and e series) finally 4000( GM pumps).
Dyoung14 has put the 4000 in one. Works ok

 

[icanfixall]

I'm only going to state that yes... You can change the gov spring but its a job I personally would not attempt. Dyoung is the member that has done it with great sucess too. Now the warning that comes with the yes statement... Please have a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 inch thick plywood wide enough the cover the intake horn in the intake manifold. If anything goes wrong doing the spring change you at least can smother the air going to the engine and stop the runaway. I have no pics or directions for doing this and if you try this.. Go with the 4000 rpm gm spring.. You wont need to wind the engine up that high but its nice knowing you have something left in reserve too.. Mal might be of some help here doing this work too.. He owns Conestoga Diesel in Pa... Great member here with 15700 posts... so he knows what he is doing or talking about... Never have I found a more honest business man than he is. Actually we have three other business men here as long time members that really know what they are talking about.... Sadly I'm not feeling like I'm of their caliber but still trying to measure up...