Glowplug issues

Patriot304

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Hey yall. My truck 7.3 na 88 f250 lariat is having glowplug problem. I turn the key and sometimes I have no wait to start bottom, sometimes is clicks on and off and today the light never went off. I would have thought it was the glowplug solenoid but I replaced it a month ago. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 

ClifFord

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It's a good idea to change the glowplugs and gp relay at the same time. On the 7.3 n/a they aren't that hard to get to. Only use the motorcraft glowplugs, I've heard all other brands mushroom or break off. Also check the connectors. Make sure the squirrels haven't chewed up your wires and ground it out.

Sent from my cp3705A using Tapatalk
 

firehonomichl

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Mine was doing that when I first got it so I did the GP rely,GP, and the connectors and it’s never done it sense but u can test ur GPs. Take a test light and put on the positive side of ur battery and touch the top of the GP and if the test light lights up it good if it doesn’t it’s bad. But definitely use ZD9 GPs if not u will have tons of issues
 

arizhntr

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You should hear the controller clicking also if it is working. I have 3 bad plugs in mine right now and the controller still clicks, but the WTS light does not activate.
 

BeastMaster

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Speaking of glow plugs, anyone had the experience of a glow plug relay failing welding itself ON? That is failing to open the battery circuit at end of cycle, causing all the glow plugs to burn out?

I hope the NAPA Eichlin I just bought won't let me down.
 

franklin2

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Speaking of glow plugs, anyone had the experience of a glow plug relay failing welding itself ON? That is failing to open the battery circuit at end of cycle, causing all the glow plugs to burn out?

I hope the NAPA Eichlin I just bought won't let me down.

The older style controllers on the 6.9 are famous for sticking on.
 

IDIoit

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ive had lots of issues with the solid state controllers, that now, I think I know what to do and more importantly what not to do.

if your controller clicks, the first thing I do is ohm glow plugs. if there not motorcraft, replace them now.
they will swell up and have issues depending on there shape.

I also address the harness. I use the 6.0 harnesses now a days and something as simple as not soldering the eye connectors on had led me to
banging my head against the wall.

ive had good and bad controllers out of the box.
ford wants an outrageous amount for motorcraft controllers.
you can find them cheaper. but I have a 50% fail rate with other brands.

I don't have wait to start lights in either of my IDI's but if they click immediately. theres an issue.

I usually just let it sit for 10 seconds and itll fire, if everything is in working order
 

BeastMaster

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It's been my suspicion that the earlier bipolar NPN transistor technology was susceptible to alternator load dumps and starter motor voltage spikes. A power transistor damaged in this manner will short emitter to collector...permanently on.

Where the later MOSFET technology usually avalanches the device and the worse that happens is a brief current pulse to the contactor coil.

Anyway, just my guess as to why the earlier controllers were failing ON. I suspect they redesigned them to use the later tech.

My controller seems to be working, but the contactor contacts eroded to failure. That is, I get a click, but no DC at the load terminal. I have DC at the other terminal. The contactor doesn't make contact anymore. Open.

Shorting the white wire terminal to ground engages the coil, clicks the contactor, but provides no voltage out.

Therefore, I replace the contactor. About a $20 part via NAPA. Eichlen brand.

I have known sometimes poorly designed contactors weld themselves closed. And wondered if others had experienced this kind of disappointment with these failing in this manner.

If the controller makes a pain in the butt out of itself, I'll replace it with a pushbutton... Connecting the white wire contactor terminal to ground. Disconnecting the white wire from the controller removes the ability of the controller to engage the contactor coil. But once you do this, you don't want anyone messing with your truck...they may not know glow plug usage, and blow em all up for you.
 
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franklin2

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The replacement starter relays or "starter solenoids" that mount on the fender for the gas trucks are terrible for sticking. I blame it on cheap Chinese junk. I don't think they put very good metal on the contacts in these relays anymore.
 

BeastMaster

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The eichlin GPR200 I got from NAPA is made in Mexico.

Do they really use aluminum for contacts these days?

.........

  • NAPA Echlin designs, specifies and manufactures engine management products with only one goal in mind: to make them the very best. This philosophy reflects the ongoing commitment of NAPA Echlin to its customers and to providing the best engine management products in the industry.
  • Terminal Gender: Male (1)
  • Terminal Type: Stud
  • Amperage Rating: 30 A
  • Contents: Solenoid
  • Functions: Ignition
  • Mounting Bracket(s) Included: Yes
  • Voltage: 12 V
  • High-quality composite housings protect against harsh temperatures and severe under-hood conditions
  • High-quality aluminum contacts lead to durability and longevity
  • Manufactured at TS16949 and ISO9001 certified facility to ensure quality
......
Above from NAPA website.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NEQGPR200

Under "featuresfand benefits"

Aluminum????

30Amp????
 
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IDIBRONCO

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I'm not surprised. I believe that they use aluminum inside the new Lincoln (the only type that Ive seen personally) stick welders. You can sure tell the difference between those and the older ones that used copper. The ones with copper almost feel like you're trying to pick up a IDI engine block.
 

BeastMaster

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I remember all too well the fits I had trying to use aluminum electrical parts a few decades ago. Especially house wiring.

Nothing but problems. And fires.

All rooted in oxidation and deformation.

I don't want to do that again.

This will be replaced by a White-Rodgers 586-902 relay if it fails.

http://datasheet.elcodis.com/pdf/54/28/542809/586-902.pdf

300Amp. Silver alloy contacts. Loss than 1 ampere coil current. ( Existing one draws 4 amp ).

There are so many people out there making crap these days. But what pains me most I guess is when an old trusted brand sells out to the fast-buck handshaker and cheapens their product to that which disappoints their customer.
 

franklin2

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Yep, silver is what they used in the old days and will last forever. But we can't have things last forever can we? And silver is pretty expensive.
 

u2slow

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Every diesel I've had that needed GP system work ended up with a $10 ford starter solenoid and a momentary switch. Pack a spare solenoid in your glovebox.

EDIT: Solenoids are famous for pulling-in (the audible click) put don't conduct due to burnt contacts. I used to keep a scrap of stiff insulated #6 wire on hand to jump the solenoid for 10-20 seconds, then jump back in the cab and crank again.
 
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