redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
can you explain this setup a little or link to something you followed to do it
When you pop the cover off the relay, you'll see a thin white wire hooked up to one of the small studs on the relay - the controller uses this wireto ground the relay's master circuit and thus trigger it. For manual switch you need to add another wire to that same stud, then run the new wire into the cab, through a momentary switch, and then to a good ground (steering column works good for that) - now the controller can still do its thing, but you can also manually glow the plugs for as long as you wan to with the new switch. If you don't want any controller action, then pull the thin white factory wire off the relay stud, and leave just the new one you added on - now only you can glow the plugs, controller can't do anything. On another note, while you're there, locate the blue wire with the plastic connector on it, and cut it as close to the controller as possible - then add a ring terminal to the now-loose end and slide it onto that same relay stud where your manual wire is. What that does is make the "wait to start" light on the dash controlled by the relay itself, in other words it will be on every time the plugs are on for whatever reason - in the factory setup the light is under the controller's control, if the controller thinks you should not see the light then it will not trigger it, which also means the light will not be on while you do the manual glow cause you effectively bypass the controller while operating that switch... Clear as mud?can you explain this setup a little or link to something you followed to do it
I actually went a step further and tied the controller into the cold-start circuit for the fast idle and cold advance - when those two are engaged the controller can do its thing, but when the engine warms up some and the cold-start circuit disengages the controller goes dead and there's no glowplugs action unless I hit the manual switch. I did this cause I was tired of my plugs coming on for 10 seconds even with the engine all warmed up - that's just a waste of plugs there, as I have no problems firing up on no plugs within just a few revolutions of the crank.I always liked running a manual switch to the ground wire for the relay or controller. That has allowed me to choose when I need the GP's or not.
Ok so i went through and checked all of the connections today, none were loose or unplugged and the truck still doesnt start right. wts only stayed on about 5 sec in 55-60 degree weather this morning after sitting all night. I would like to leave the factory controller to do its thing and have the button for emergencies. the only thing i noticed amiss was that the plugs seem to have some kind of grease on them but that was on there before and i never had these issues until i unplugged them. Is that grease supposed to be on there and if it isnt why did it wait until now to affect the controller?
Then follow my initial suggestion - leave the factory white wire attached to the relay and just add your own one on top of it, also move the blue wire so that the wts light still works when you use the manual button.I would like to leave the factory controller to do its thing and have the button for emergencies.
That would be my guess as well, shouldn't affect connection enough to cause funky controller operation, but who knows? Might as well clean it all off and see if that helps the situation any...No experience there but im guessing it might be a di-electric greese for the electrical connection ?