Glow plug time issue.

Farmer Rock

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Finally got around to checking things out today. Found two GP leads loose, popped them back tight and started right up. Easy fix and knowledge gained. Next step manual GP switch.
That is surprising, since those connectors are a real pain to remove, so I am surprised they just fell of. Are they aftermarket connectors?



Rock
 

Farmer Rock

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Yes GP harness is from Classic Diesel design. Great part, you just need to lightly crimp some of the leads for a tight fit.
I have been eyeing up one of Wes' harnesses, but I haven't bought one yet. I bought cheap pigtails from ebay a few months ago, and they had to be crimped a little bit, so it is probably just standard.



Rock
 

71 Highboy

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Finally got around to checking things out today. Found two GP leads loose, popped them back tight and started right up. Easy fix and knowledge gained. Next step manual GP switch.

I'm not butting in, but if you go to a manual controller, you can eliminate the controller completely and just use the solenoid from it. I have two 6 Volt batteries and power the GP's with 6 volts (design voltage for them) from one of the batteries to the solenoid, for about 35 -45 seconds in normal temps, maybe 60 below freezing. The button in the cab is the ground signal to the solenoid. Advantages to this is they don't cycle every start, extending life by double. They don't swell up from overheating at 12 volts. ( the controllers job to cycle on/ off). And you can run a simple electrical system with the one wire into the cab for the button. I have run this with the stock harness for 29 years. Think manual glow plugs in an electric start D-7 from the 70's. Hold to Heat, and count seconds. In the pic, bottom center is the solenoid feeding the 6 volts thru to the GP's.
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kbenz

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I'm not butting in, but if you go to a manual controller, you can eliminate the controller completely and just use the solenoid from it. I have two 6 Volt batteries and power the GP's with 6 volts (design voltage for them) from one of the batteries to the solenoid, for about 35 -45 seconds in normal temps, maybe 60 below freezing. The button in the cab is the ground signal to the solenoid. Advantages to this is they don't cycle every start, extending life by double. They don't swell up from overheating at 12 volts. ( the controllers job to cycle on/ off). And you can run a simple electrical system with the one wire into the cab for the button. I have run this with the stock harness for 29 years. Think manual glow plugs in an electric start D-7 from the 70's. Hold to Heat, and count seconds. In the pic, bottom center is the solenoid feeding the 6 volts thru to the GP's.
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Interesting. What size 6v batteries are you using?
 

71 Highboy

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Group 27 size physically. 900 or 1000 Amps each. Been in there a long time an I really forget. Now one will fail. Mark my words.!!!
 

71 Highboy

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they have worked a very long time. I'd have to look, think I've only replaced one time. Well worth it IMHO
 

71 Highboy

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where ya mount them at?

One one each side like they would come with if they did that back then!
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71 Highboy

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I went and looked. They are XD-4 Interstates. They both have 2012 bar code dates. 950 CCA each. Like I said, been there awhile.
 

Farmer Rock

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I'm not butting in, but if you go to a manual controller, you can eliminate the controller completely and just use the solenoid from it. I have two 6 Volt batteries and power the GP's with 6 volts (design voltage for them) from one of the batteries to the solenoid, for about 35 -45 seconds in normal temps, maybe 60 below freezing. The button in the cab is the ground signal to the solenoid. Advantages to this is they don't cycle every start, extending life by double. They don't swell up from overheating at 12 volts. ( the controllers job to cycle on/ off). And you can run a simple electrical system with the one wire into the cab for the button. I have run this with the stock harness for 29 years. Think manual glow plugs in an electric start D-7 from the 70's. Hold to Heat, and count seconds. In the pic, bottom center is the solenoid feeding the 6 volts thru to the GP's.
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Since he has a 7.3, it has 12v plugs so there's really no worry about too much voltage. I usually hold mine for 12 seconds on cold mornings, and never have trouble. Of course when really cold I try to use the block heater, but it does start fine without it.That is an interesting setup you have there on your truck



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71 Highboy

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Ahh

8 years? Wow. Custom made battery cables?

I just made the long one between the two batteries. Fed the relay with an 8 gage stranded. Different GP's have safe operating voltages. I experimented by observing with a heat gun and watching them. Autolite 1107 are 6 v, 53 watt. Autolite 1106 are 11 v. 73 watt. AC 60 G are 10.5 v 200 watt. and AC 8 G are 6 v. 50 watt.
 

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