Glow Plug controler?

[MT.EZ]

I think that the glow plug controler on my motor is shot. When I try to start it it will just crank and crank unless it is plugged in. This in in 50 degree weather. I have eight new berue plugs and they all test outb good. Where do you recomend getting the new controler from, Ford, International, or aftermarket. Is one brand better than another like in our glow plugs? Thanks for all replies.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Do yourself a favor, wire a manual pushbutton to control the GP relay.

There is a small terminal on the relay with a white wire on it. Run a wire from this terminal, through a pushbutton switch, and to any good ground. No need to unhook the existing white wire.

Anytime the button is pushed, the GP's are on. Hold the button for about 6 seconds, and crank the engine while still holding the button. This method will get you the quickest starts.

 

[argve]

What year truck do you have? The reason I'm asking is do you ahve the solid state glow plug controller. Because the SS controller is actually pretty bullet proof what I have found to be root cause of the problems associated with it is bad connections. Check all connections and shine them up (including the ground) when I say all connections I mean all connections especially the ones on the contoller it's self. Reason is the controller looks at the voltage drop across the big zig zag resistor to calculate the burn time of the glow plugs. Any corrosion or the like on these connections will effect the performance of the system. so before you go hacking the wires or replacing the unit clean the connections...

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Good point Travis, I wrongly assumed he had a 7.3L engine. Most of the 6.9L engines had a completely different style of controller that could either fail open or closed.

 

[Builder Bob]

Reason is the controller looks at the voltage drop across the big zig zag resistor to calculate the burn time of the glow plugs. ...

Thanks for joining the "A" Team.

 

[MT.EZ]

The pickup is a 1992 with the 7.3 liter. Don't know if this is the solid state one but I will clean all conections and see what happens. Thanks. I don't know how to get my rig to show up on the post like some of you have.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Your truck has the solid state controller. The old style controller was only used on 6.9L with the exception of 1987. The instruction I gave for controller bypass would apply to your truck.

To make a signature, click on "User CP" at the top of the page, then click "Edit Signature". Just the basics: year, model, motor and trans 2WD or 4WD.

 

[ttman4]

Do yourself a favor, wire a manual pushbutton to control the GP relay.

There is a small terminal on the relay with a white wire on it. Run a wire from this terminal, through a pushbutton switch, and to any good ground. No need to unhook the existing white wire.

Anytime the button is pushed, the GP's are on. Hold the button for about 6 seconds, and crank the engine while still holding the button. This method will get you the quickest starts.

I think I did nearly the same thing. On my '90 IDI I cut & spliced the black (I think) ground wire that ran from the controller to the ground. I then just ran this thru a pushbutton, then back to the splice to ground. Actually, I guess I could have just run to any good ground instead of all the way back to the splice.
Either way, as I understand, by grounding the controller this is what makes it come on.
Mine doesn't cycle on & off like it used to before the pushbutton. Turn on key & push button, it stays on till I release or it times out. If I want more glow, then I have to turn key off, then back on.
Mine has been on a pushbutton about 2 1/2 years with the same plugs. Before that, about every 6-8 mo I'd have 1-2 plugs go out & then it got really hard to crank....******* starters.
Thru the years I've tried nearly every brand plug I could find.....but still have 1-2 go out in too short of time.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

I think I did nearly the same thing. On my '90 IDI I cut & spliced the black (I think) ground wire that ran from the controller to the ground. I then just ran this thru a pushbutton, then back to the splice to ground. Actually, I guess I could have just run to any good ground instead of all the way back to the splice.
Either way, as I understand, by grounding the controller this is what makes it come on.
Mine doesn't cycle on & off like it used to before the pushbutton. Turn on key & push button, it stays on till I release or it times out. If I want more glow, then I have to turn key off, then back on.
Mine has been on a pushbutton about 2 1/2 years with the same plugs. Before that, about every 6-8 mo I'd have 1-2 plugs go out & then it got really hard to crank....******* starters.
Thru the years I've tried nearly every brand plug I could find.....but still have 1-2 go out in too short of time.

How do I put this gently, you didn't accomplish anything except DISABLE the automatic functioning of the controller by breaking the ground circuit.

Now if you want to keep it like that it's fine. If you want to truly control the GP relay, reconnect the ground wire and follow my instructions above EXCEPT disconnect the white wire from the relay. This will allow you to control the length of GP burn while still disabling the automatic controller operation.

 

[dbarilow]

Why not just fix the problem and let the controller do what it was intended to do? Ensure that the controller is getting power. That was the problem with mine I had WTS but no clickie and no volt drop ended up being the wires feeding the controller were melted. Also low battery voltage can cause problems. Then check for air leaks in the fuel this can compound the problem.

 

[ttman4]

How do I put this gently, you didn't accomplish anything except DISABLE the automatic functioning of the controller by breaking the ground circuit.

Now if you want to keep it like that it's fine. If you want to truly control the GP relay, reconnect the ground wire and follow my instructions above EXCEPT disconnect the white wire from the relay. This will allow you to control the length of GP burn while still disabling the automatic controller operation.

Don't worry about being gentle or sugarcoat anything. I stumble & fumble up & down the roads in my world anyway.
And I usually learn the right way after I've fryed, roasted, or bent things!!!!
If I understand things, the way I did it only gives my GP burn length any controll by how long I press button?? I usually give it a 6-7 count or so.
Originally, the GP are designed to heat, then start cycling, even after startup?
What happens if they don't cycle? Other than continuing to heat inside the prechambers after start till things warm & smooth out.
Maybe I'm hurting things & didn't realize it afterall.....or at least, not helping things???
(I'll probably be back under the hood this weekend now.....be fretting & sweating all week....wet the bed or something )
Gotta run. I'll ck back tonight.
James