Gauge Install Questions

[travelinman31]

I got some gauges to put on the truck and need some guidance on installing them. They are used Autometer Pro-Comp (water temp, oil pressure, and pyrometer) all electric. My first question is what size wire should I run from water temp sensor to gauge, and what size wire from oil sensor to gauge. The pyro has the wires so not so worried about them. Also each gauge has a ground terminal can I run one ground to all three and where would you terminate the one that supplies all, also what size wire. There is also an "I" terminal on the water temp and oil gauge I'm assuming this is ignition, where would you pull this from and again do they need to be seperate or could I run same wire to supply both gauges and split at gauges, what size wire is recommended. Gauge lights where would you pull from for these and again could I run one wire to all three gauges and splice once there, wire size? All three of these gauges will be in the same location and I don't want to run a bunch of extra wire if I don't have to. I hate asking these questions (I'm a master electrician by trade) but DC is not in my work history. And the water and oil gauge didn't come with any wires except pigtail for light. If it were A/C I know I could run these in series and what size wire I'd need ect..
It is very difficult to switch my thinking from a 277/480 panel to a fuse box, I don't know why but it is.

One other thing while I'm here I've noticed my factory amp gauge bouncing at idle, any thoughts? It gets steady and reads a bit over halfway running down the highway. I don't have a new gauge for that as of yet. I'm trying to prepare the truck to pull a 30' Fifth Wheel to Arkansas in a week, and I'm just stressing a little. The DW will never let me live it down if we have a break down on the way, I'm the one who convinced her we needed this truck and that it was bullet proof. More questions to come as I will be working on the truck over the weekend and next week to insure things are working properly. Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

IIRC a-meter calls for 18g wire. that is what i use in all my gauge installs anyway.

for my grounds i just cleaned around one of the many small holes in the frame under the driver's seat and fastened the ground there. been working fine. 18g wire for that as well.

For the ignition terminal you can tap them into the same key-on fuse of your choice. IIRC my key-on fuse is the radio fuse.

back lighting: yes, use the same wire for all three gauges. 18g as well. i ran a wire up to the head light switch so when i turn on the running lights and/or head lights the gauges light up. i just used a test light to find the right wire. i have mine set up to dim with the dash as well.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

although different year trucks and different gauges, it may help understand things a little better.

http://autometer.com/techinfo_newsarticle.aspx?pg=2&aid=6

 

[idi_econoline]

Many thx for the useful info, '94IDITurbo7.3. Bought the Autometer pillarpod for my later E; now I'll know how to proceed.

Never have trusted the Ford OEM gauges. Every Ford truck OP gauge I've seen seems to have 2 places for its needle: No pressure, and somewhere-in-the-middle-which-means-you-have-pressure.

I also prefer a temp reading on my temp gauge -- I don't think that's unreasonable! "Yep, running between 'N' and "O" (of 'NORMAL").

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Many thx for the useful info, '94IDITurbo7.3. Bought the Autometer pillarpod for my later E; now I'll know how to proceed.

Never have trusted the Ford OEM gauges. Every Ford truck OP gauge I've seen seems to have 2 places for its needle: No pressure, and somewhere-in-the-middle-which-means-you-have-pressure.

I also prefer a temp reading on my temp gauge -- I don't think that's unreasonable! "Yep, running between 'N' and "O" (of 'NORMAL").

your welcome and good luck with the install.

 

[GOOSE]

I got some gauges to put on the truck and need some guidance on installing them. They are used Autometer Pro-Comp (water temp, oil pressure, and pyrometer) all electric. My first question is what size wire should I run from water temp sensor to gauge, and what size wire from oil sensor to gauge. The pyro has the wires so not so worried about them. Also each gauge has a ground terminal can I run one ground to all three and where would you terminate the one that supplies all, also what size wire. There is also an "I" terminal on the water temp and oil gauge I'm assuming this is ignition, where would you pull this from and again do they need to be seperate or could I run same wire to supply both gauges and split at gauges, what size wire is recommended. Gauge lights where would you pull from for these and again could I run one wire to all three gauges and splice once there, wire size? All three of these gauges will be in the same location and I don't want to run a bunch of extra wire if I don't have to. I hate asking these questions (I'm a master electrician by trade) but DC is not in my work history. And the water and oil gauge didn't come with any wires except pigtail for light. If it were A/C I know I could run these in series and what size wire I'd need ect..
It is very difficult to switch my thinking from a 277/480 panel to a fuse box, I don't know why but it is.

One other thing while I'm here I've noticed my factory amp gauge bouncing at idle, any thoughts? It gets steady and reads a bit over halfway running down the highway. I don't have a new gauge for that as of yet. I'm trying to prepare the truck to pull a 30' Fifth Wheel to Arkansas in a week, and I'm just stressing a little. The DW will never let me live it down if we have a break down on the way, I'm the one who convinced her we needed this truck and that it was bullet proof. More questions to come as I will be working on the truck over the weekend and next week to insure things are working properly. Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.

#18 is fine as none of these things draw too much current. Google a bit and you will find the wiring diagram for your radio. Pull your dimmable dash lights from here. The factory radio does indeed dim with the rest of your dash. Also pull the switched ignition wire from here as well. You can also use your cigar lighter as I believe this is switched also. You can run a tek screw or better yet, drill and tap an 8-32 stud anywhere you have good metal. screw it into the tap and nut each side with one lock washer in the mix for a great expandable grounding point. Now #8 ring terminals and a 3rd nut give a very useable system.

Do away with the neutral that you are accostomed to and vision your truck's ground as the neutral. Any way that the power gets back to the negative side of the battery is just fine, sheet metal, frame, no difference. I would call the gauge manufacturer or search online for what size wire to run to the sensors. #18 will probably be fine but its good to know what is suggested, the wire's resistance always has the potential to throw things off. Run everything in wire loom and put a grommet in the fire wall where you come into the cab. Good luck, it really IS a whole lot easier than terminating a 500 KVA X-former.

 

[riotwarrior]

Your AC theory applies here too, current, length of run, wire diameter, resistance/load...AC/DC same...just got a simpler version here with + and - only...no neutral.