ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
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I did something wrong on this post so just go on & skip it!!!
Last edited:
fuel system overhaul
- Thread starter grumpy1
- Start date
ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2005
- Posts
- 1,095
- Reaction score
- 612
Thanks very much for correcting me!! I just learned something! For some reason I got idea they were Bronco tanks.
Wonder what the F26D & E actually supposed to fit on?
Was about 2 yr ago I put that F26E under there.
I run some WMO & things mixed in that rear tank, kinda always experimenting etc. Anyway I cut hole in tank top, added a tank fuel heater, wrapped & insulated tank, stuck it up under there.
Before I did all that I plugged all holes in tank, shot air to it and bulged tank some/lots. Another of my experiments. Anyway no leaks so far!!!!
I gained 9-10 gal, total now of about 47-48 gal on rear tank. When I first filled it with my new fuel gauge I put in 5 gal at a time, cked gauge, wrote it down &made list of each 5 gal mark for future gauge watching.
I see on rock auto it pulls these up for a f350
81-84 gas & diesel (tiny pickup)
F26C
85-88 gas
F26E
85-88 diesel (assuming this is the same as gas but is out of stock so not listed)
F26D
It looks a bit like this was a opional tank during these years.
I'm 98% sure they were not a factory offering... something that started in the aftermarket.
Good to know about them being aftermarket then, would you know then why its not listed for all year of this truck? Did something change with the oem tank in 89-90 that this aftermarket tank did not follow?
Old Goat
Full Access Member
I just reread through this thread again, not sure what I remembered though. lots of stuff thrown back and forth.
As mentioned, Bronko tanks are not the 38 gallon tanks
Aug/Set of 2019, I pulled the bed off the 85 F-250 to replace the rear 19 Gal Tank to a Spectra F26E 38 Gallon tank. And to replace the front tank Sending unit.
It quit sending about 3 years before, so had to write the mileage each fill up. So if I refilled at 300 miles all was good, but we had several really close calls.
One time I knew we were close, and could feel the engine slightly loose power and pick up again. Make a left turn at the end of the road, and was a slight down hill, goosed the engine and coasted about 2 miles down to the corner station. As I pulled up to the pump she almost died....too close.
If that station wasn`t there, a good 10 miles to
Carson City or to Minden...long walk.
I never did use the rear tank the 5 years we had the truck as the guy I got it from said he never used it, and not knowing if the FSOV even worked.
Ordered the F26E, and two new sending units, and 2 Shower heads, along with a new FSOV.
I decided to pull the bed from all I read on the Forums.
Biggest challenge with this, the Nuts on the bed Bolts were so rusted the air impact gun would not remove them. Decided to grind off the heads being a Carriage type bolt should just drop out the bottom...Wrong. Only about 2 inches.
Was going to torch the nuts off, but seeing the fuel lines and wires on the left front decided to get the grinder.
I lifted the bed (after removing the fill hose`s screws, wire harness etc...
Using the Cherry picker and HF Ratchet Straps. From R/F - L/R, L/F - R/R. Bed wouldn`t lift till I placed one under each fender opening and across the top of the CP. Then it came up.
I then could torch off the bolts between the frame and bed, and moved truck and placed bed on Saw Horses.
Replaced the front sender. Used a Brass Drift to loosen the Lock Ring, blow it off with your Air Hose so the crap stays out of the tank.
Tank was squeeky clean except of the Shower Head in the bottom. Float sank is why the sender didn`t work.
The fuel lines have a plastic Clip that holds them on. Use a small flat Screw Driver and the pop up.
Rear tank had about 5 gallons of fuel, syphoned it out.
Fuel looked clean as well as the tank, and who know`s how old the fuel was?
New Tank has a coating of oil on it. Scrubbed it with a $ Store product called LA Awsome, a great cleaner for oily greasy stuff. Then treated it with Phosphoric Acid to etch the metal, and 2 coats of POR, and a couple coats of rubber under coating. Wire Wheeled the tank straps and painted them also.
Tank kit comes with some longer bolt for the straps, but were 2 inches too short, off to the HDW Store.
Some copper tubing to extend the Sending Unit etc...
Scrubbed the Frame down and gave it 2 coats of POR to pretty it up.
Installing the tank, put a good thick coat of RTV where the straps lay on the tank and some on the straps.
Lifted the tank in place using a Floor Jack and piece of wood to hold it, and tightened the straps.
The rear Sender Float arm will have to be cut and extended about 5.5 inches., as well as the pick up tube. Cut tube and used compression fittings to connect the copper tube.
I bought 20 gallons of fuel, dumped in 5 gal at a time to calibrate the fuel gauge to Float. Got it pretty close.
Will have to remove and bend/tweek arm to get her close.
Place a piece of card board between bed and cab when lining bed back up.
Only place I could find new bed bolts was at LMC. fronts were like $24 ea, center around $12 and rear $10 or something like that, been a while. NO way paying for that.
Bought regular bolts and fastened her down.
Then just a matter of connecting Fill Tubes, wires etc....
I didn`t trust the HF Straps, so bought a metal one for lifting beds, off Amazon. Around $180 but was thinking safety.
I used the F26E tank, there is the F26D tank also. read the difference is in the fill tube. Just wiggle out the small inner tube and they can be used.
Hope this helps some one.
Goat
As mentioned, Bronko tanks are not the 38 gallon tanks
Aug/Set of 2019, I pulled the bed off the 85 F-250 to replace the rear 19 Gal Tank to a Spectra F26E 38 Gallon tank. And to replace the front tank Sending unit.
It quit sending about 3 years before, so had to write the mileage each fill up. So if I refilled at 300 miles all was good, but we had several really close calls.
One time I knew we were close, and could feel the engine slightly loose power and pick up again. Make a left turn at the end of the road, and was a slight down hill, goosed the engine and coasted about 2 miles down to the corner station. As I pulled up to the pump she almost died....too close.
If that station wasn`t there, a good 10 miles to
Carson City or to Minden...long walk.
I never did use the rear tank the 5 years we had the truck as the guy I got it from said he never used it, and not knowing if the FSOV even worked.
Ordered the F26E, and two new sending units, and 2 Shower heads, along with a new FSOV.
I decided to pull the bed from all I read on the Forums.
Biggest challenge with this, the Nuts on the bed Bolts were so rusted the air impact gun would not remove them. Decided to grind off the heads being a Carriage type bolt should just drop out the bottom...Wrong. Only about 2 inches.
Was going to torch the nuts off, but seeing the fuel lines and wires on the left front decided to get the grinder.
I lifted the bed (after removing the fill hose`s screws, wire harness etc...
Using the Cherry picker and HF Ratchet Straps. From R/F - L/R, L/F - R/R. Bed wouldn`t lift till I placed one under each fender opening and across the top of the CP. Then it came up.
I then could torch off the bolts between the frame and bed, and moved truck and placed bed on Saw Horses.
Replaced the front sender. Used a Brass Drift to loosen the Lock Ring, blow it off with your Air Hose so the crap stays out of the tank.
Tank was squeeky clean except of the Shower Head in the bottom. Float sank is why the sender didn`t work.
The fuel lines have a plastic Clip that holds them on. Use a small flat Screw Driver and the pop up.
Rear tank had about 5 gallons of fuel, syphoned it out.
Fuel looked clean as well as the tank, and who know`s how old the fuel was?
New Tank has a coating of oil on it. Scrubbed it with a $ Store product called LA Awsome, a great cleaner for oily greasy stuff. Then treated it with Phosphoric Acid to etch the metal, and 2 coats of POR, and a couple coats of rubber under coating. Wire Wheeled the tank straps and painted them also.
Tank kit comes with some longer bolt for the straps, but were 2 inches too short, off to the HDW Store.
Some copper tubing to extend the Sending Unit etc...
Scrubbed the Frame down and gave it 2 coats of POR to pretty it up.
Installing the tank, put a good thick coat of RTV where the straps lay on the tank and some on the straps.
Lifted the tank in place using a Floor Jack and piece of wood to hold it, and tightened the straps.
The rear Sender Float arm will have to be cut and extended about 5.5 inches., as well as the pick up tube. Cut tube and used compression fittings to connect the copper tube.
I bought 20 gallons of fuel, dumped in 5 gal at a time to calibrate the fuel gauge to Float. Got it pretty close.
Will have to remove and bend/tweek arm to get her close.
Place a piece of card board between bed and cab when lining bed back up.
Only place I could find new bed bolts was at LMC. fronts were like $24 ea, center around $12 and rear $10 or something like that, been a while. NO way paying for that.
Bought regular bolts and fastened her down.
Then just a matter of connecting Fill Tubes, wires etc....
I didn`t trust the HF Straps, so bought a metal one for lifting beds, off Amazon. Around $180 but was thinking safety.
I used the F26E tank, there is the F26D tank also. read the difference is in the fill tube. Just wiggle out the small inner tube and they can be used.
Hope this helps some one.
Goat
