Gary79F250
The Bawston Whalah
How much of a project is it?
Fuel shut off solenoid replacement Stanadyne DB2
- Thread starter Gary79F250
- Start date
About a 15 minute job. All you need is a new top cover assembly. They run around $100. Your best bet it is to find a used one off an unneeded core. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the proper installation proceedure to prevent engine runaway.
Gary79F250
The Bawston Whalah
Thats what i did took me about 20 min.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Hi, Agnem: Can you tell me where I can get a copy of the replacement procedure for the FSS? I need to replace the one in my 1994 F350 as it sticks when hot. Any help would be appreciated! Don't need the idi running away! Thanks! Todd
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Oldbull8 and Agnem-Thanks very much for your replies. I appreciate it! The new solenoid should arrive tomorrow and with any luck, I should be able to install it on Saturday. Thanks agai for your help. Todd
Kevin 007
Full-floater
Do these things usually fail in the On position?? or is it just the luck of the draw?? The FSS has always been a worry of mine with the idi. Even though its the only electrical component needed to run it once its started. It worries me because if it fails in the middle of nowhere, there isn't really anyway of manually switching it to get the truck running; without pulling the IP cover off...or not that I know of anyways.
Like my Landcruiser and Mercedes both have a manual fuel shut off that is activated by and electric motor(landcruiser) or vaccum(mercedes). If either fail, you can still manually switch the fuel shutoff to the run position and your on your way. Peace of mind when out in the bush!!! or when it freezing out and you NEED to get that rig running to warm yourself up!!
Like my Landcruiser and Mercedes both have a manual fuel shut off that is activated by and electric motor(landcruiser) or vaccum(mercedes). If either fail, you can still manually switch the fuel shutoff to the run position and your on your way. Peace of mind when out in the bush!!! or when it freezing out and you NEED to get that rig running to warm yourself up!!
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Well, in my particular case, the FSS has been sticking in the off position when hot, and then only when it "heat soaked" for about 15 minutes or more after shut down. The truck would start right up when hot provided I started it again within less than 10 minutes after shut down. If I waited longer, apparently the fuel in the IP had a chance to get hot and then heat soak the FFS. I could get the FFS to activate if I pulled the wire off the terminal and then touched it back on the terminal a couple of times with the key turned on. It sort of "shocked" the FSS into activating. Who knows how long that would work though? Of course, it also seems that the FSS fails in the on position too, as you will see posts on this forum regarding the truck not shutting off even though the key is turned off. At least if that is case, you could just pull the wire to shut the truck down. I can't imagine these things fail very often. In my case, I have owned three IDI Fords over the years, an '84, an '88 and now my '94, and this is my first FSS problem. I agree it could be very "inconvenient" if the FSS were to completely fail in the off position in the middle of nowhere (at 10 below). Maybe someone with more knowledge than I can add some input regarding if there is some method of adding a manual "back up" to the FSS (did Stanadyne ever have a manual FSS on AG applications???).
joeblack5
Registered User
hot soak fuel shutoff valve failure?
Sorry to revive this older thread
Did this problem resolve with the cold water trick and if so how were you sure it was the FSS
If the FSS was clicking how did you determine if this was a FSS problem or a worn out hydraulic head problem?
Later J
Sorry to revive this older thread
Did this problem resolve with the cold water trick and if so how were you sure it was the FSS
If the FSS was clicking how did you determine if this was a FSS problem or a worn out hydraulic head problem?
Later J
tbrumm
Full Access Member
I never tried the "cold" water trick. As I understand it, that is for worn out IP's. The cool (not cold!) water is supposed to somewhat shrink the loose tolerances in a worn out and sloppy IP enough so it can build hydraulic pressure and fire the injectors. At the time I was having this problem with the FSS, the IP only had about 50 k on it, so I did not suspect a pressure problem from a worn out IP. The IP now has 88k on it and still works fine. After the FSS heat soaked, the truck would not fire. After cool down, it would fire right up. I had my Wife try to start the truck when hot while I listened for the "click" of the FSS under the hood. There was no click. I took the wire off the FSS and then started intermittently touching it to the terminal and finally got the FSS to click. AHA! Put a new FSS in and no more problems!
joeblack5
Registered User
hot soak fuel shutoff valve failure?
Hi tbrumm,
Thank you for clarifying the reasoning behind the fix.
Did you see anything unusual on the broken FSS?
If it does not click does that mean that there is not current going thru the coil and or that the core is stuck and does not move although the current is creating a magnetic field?
Thank you again.
Later J
Hi tbrumm,
Thank you for clarifying the reasoning behind the fix.
Did you see anything unusual on the broken FSS?
If it does not click does that mean that there is not current going thru the coil and or that the core is stuck and does not move although the current is creating a magnetic field?
Thank you again.
Later J
tbrumm
Full Access Member
When I removed the old FSS, it "looked" fine. When hot, it could be the coil would "open" and not energize, or the arm could have just been stuck. I never messed with it once removed. At any rate, I knew I always had power to the FSS when the key was on as I checked that with my multimeter. There is the possibility that the ignition switch is the problem and not providing power to the FSS when the key is on. That is an easy check though - just a wire direct from battery and touch the other end to the FSS terminal and see if it clicks. If that makes the FSS work, then your problem may be a short in the ignition switch.
89Laredo
Underemployed
This is why I keep a piece of wire with a ring terminal on one end and spade on the other. If the fuse link burns out or ignition switch acts up I can still have a running engine as long as the fss is working and there is juice in the battery.
