Fuel Selector Valve wiring..

[kcnicolle]

Hi all. So I finally got fed up with my stock fuel selector valve after leaving me stranded on the road, so I went with 2 manual 3-way ball valves. Works incredible, got the idea from another post on here. If I can find the link I’ll post it. My question is...what’s the best way to modify the existing wiring to have my fuel gauge work based on the old selector switch? Is there a way to jumper the wires? I’ve got the diagram but can’t quite figure it out. Thanks!!


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[Matt Leaman]

i just got done with putting a new fuel selector valve in mine this past friday. I have this, it came with the new valve. it may or not be helpful, i dont know. I found it informative but for a different application than what you are asking.

 

[kcnicolle]

Thank you that is a help!!


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[franklin2]

The easiest way is going to be to buy a 5 pin relay and install it in a weather proof box down where the old valve was located. You have two wires coming from the dash switch that used to operate the motor in the valve. I would take one of those wires and hook it to the relay coil, and hook the other coil terminal to ground. The other wire from the switch will get taped up.

That should make the relay click when the dash switch is in front or rear position. Then you can take the wire from the gauge and hook it to the common of the relay contacts, and then hook the tank sending unit wires to the normally open and normally closed contacts of the relay. The hardest part is going to be figuring out if you have it wired for the correct tank, and then swapping the wires around if you don't.

 

[kcnicolle]

All, thanks for the suggestions! I took apart the valve to figure out how it works and what went wrong. My rear sank sucked up some hard piece of plastic (probably the shower head) and wouldn’t allow it to move. The valve is operated by 2 linear plungers that redirect flow. A continuous motor turns a threaded rod to operate the plungers until it reaches a set point on a circuit board. So I went ahead and removed the plungers, silicones the ports, and reassembled. Now the motor will move the contacts between the two positions (operating as a relay) to send signal back to my gauges. I figured this is the easiest and simplest solution.

I’ll update when I get the chance to plug the valve back in. (I keep the ol girl down at the beach and I live near the city).

Thanks again all!


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