longhorn795
Full Access Member
does anybody no what could the common problem most likely be on a 96 that is leaking fuel into the valley pan
fuel in valley
- Thread starter longhorn795
- Start date
G. Mann
Full Access Member
I would take it to the car wash, spray the valley down with some "foamy engine brite" and clean it up, dry it out, and then look for the first wet spot to show up after startup. Could be a cracked injector line... or a return fuel line or cap leaking..
You should be tight and dry in the fuel system.. no leaking.. Sometimes it has helped me find a leak to do it at night with a strong flashlight... the wet spot will "shine" better in low ambient light when the light hits it...
Good luck..
BTW,,, be sure and seal off the intake before you wash down the engine.. I cheat by stuffing the aircleaner intake horn with plastic bags... [don't forget to take them out before starting up]
You should be tight and dry in the fuel system.. no leaking.. Sometimes it has helped me find a leak to do it at night with a strong flashlight... the wet spot will "shine" better in low ambient light when the light hits it...
Good luck..
BTW,,, be sure and seal off the intake before you wash down the engine.. I cheat by stuffing the aircleaner intake horn with plastic bags... [don't forget to take them out before starting up]
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Fuel pump, or the banjo bolt .
It's a PSD not an IDI. More than likely the o'rings on the drain valve on the fuel filter.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Could be those too.
Smokey73
Full Access Member
how 'bout the rubber fuel lines at the fuel pump
Rodney66Rife
Registered User
I was just browsing for relevant posts and I happened to stumble upon yours. Thanks for the useful information!
common soures of fuel leaks in this area are :
fuel bowl drain valve o rings
water in fuel sensor in the rear of the bowl
metal washer in the rear of the banjo bolt
fuel pump - there is a weap hole under the pump. when its starts to go bad it will leak
blue fuel lines from pump to bowl - these are not just high pressure, but high heat as well
a leak can be anywehere, and with enough of a leak the fuel will migrate towards the back of the valley.
my suggestion is this - clean what you can, and let the engine run and LOOK for a leak. - or - YOUR BEST bet.. is to change eveything else if its not the pump. what i did was buy a set of long handled curved needle nose pliers from harbor freight, and used them to shove paper towels down the valley to suck up all the fuel.. after that you can also try throwing some baby powder over eveything, and looking to see what gets wet first.
if you find a leak that requires you to remove the fuel bowl - my suggestion is to change as much as you can while its out. you'd be crazy not to rebuild to bowl and FPR while it was out, since the FPR screen will be completely covered in gunk, and if one oring failed - the rest may not be far behind. personally - i would also unplug and totally remove the fuel heater in the bowl, as you truck will run fine without it, and that heater can short out and cause alot of problems. mine shorted and cost me $500 to get my pcm reflashed.
you can buy a rebuld kit for the fuel bowl and FPR for very little money that will replace every single o ring in that area. the water in fuel sensore is something you can eliminate if you change your fuel filter regularly. its the sensor itself that leaks, not the oring around it. remove the sensor, replace with a brass plug. the blue fuel lines are avaliable from the dealer and not expensive - replace them. check the pressure at the pump. if the pressure is low or the pump is leaking, a replacment is around $100 and worth changing if its old and you already have the bowl removed. the crush washers at the banjo bolt should also be replaced IF you already have eveything else out.. it is possible to do without reomving the turbo pedestal. not very easy - but possible - youll need a 1 1/8" closed end wrench.
i found fuel leaking from 3 different spots when i took mine apart. if you remove the fuel bowl and FPR (fuel pressure regulator) youll need to remove the high pressure rubber lines than come off the FPR and goto the front of each head. if you do this, remove the wire loom that covers these line. the one that goes to the driver side head has a severe bend in it, and if there is ANY sign of cracking at all - REMOVE AND REPLACE THESE LINES. they are under pressure and will SPRAY GALLONS of fuel everywhere in minutes if they crack. lastly - be carefull replacing the fuel filter. always drain the bowl first before removing the lid. failure to do this can cause the large oring on the cover to be sucked out of place, and kinked if you screw it back down. if that happen fuel will spray eveywhere, and you will have to buy another filter just to get the oring. if you decide to change the pump, make sure you pull it straight up and that you dont break off the bottom of the pump OR drop the tappet down the hole. lift pump just enough to seperate it, and LOOK to make sure the tappet is not falling out, or grap it with needle nose. if the tappet falls, it will wind up in the oil pan.
here :
fuel bowl rebuild kit:
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...parts/6-002-94-97-f-series-fuel-bowl-kit.html
blue fuel lines:
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...em-parts-filters/6-018-fuel-pump-hoses-2.html
and
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...parts-filters/6-019-fuel-pump-upper-hose.html
new clamps:
http://www.dieselorings.com/6-026-fuel-injection-hose-clamps-blue-hose.html
banjo bolt gaskets:
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...rs/6-055-banjo-bolt-gaskets-package-of-2.html
water in fuel sensor ( i would just remove ad replace with appropiate sized brass plug, either 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4 npt for about $3. removing this sensor will NOT make a light come on in the dash)
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...rts/6-033-94-1-2-97-water-in-fuel-sensor.html
new fuel pump -
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...56&partkey=296093&a=FRc1126921k296093-1501999
IF you need them or just want to play it safe - the high pressure rubber lines are about $60 that come off the FPR and goto the heads. PLEASE - inspect these line if you move or disturb them. aside from making a huge mess, they will empty your tank in minutes.
advance auto has a replacement airtex fuel pump for $100
pump removal -
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1021390-1996-f250-7-3-fuel-pump-removal-trouble.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qlu4V6VN8ec&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kohInGh3dto
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrKnxefO84g
fuel bowl drain valve o rings
water in fuel sensor in the rear of the bowl
metal washer in the rear of the banjo bolt
fuel pump - there is a weap hole under the pump. when its starts to go bad it will leak
blue fuel lines from pump to bowl - these are not just high pressure, but high heat as well
a leak can be anywehere, and with enough of a leak the fuel will migrate towards the back of the valley.
my suggestion is this - clean what you can, and let the engine run and LOOK for a leak. - or - YOUR BEST bet.. is to change eveything else if its not the pump. what i did was buy a set of long handled curved needle nose pliers from harbor freight, and used them to shove paper towels down the valley to suck up all the fuel.. after that you can also try throwing some baby powder over eveything, and looking to see what gets wet first.
if you find a leak that requires you to remove the fuel bowl - my suggestion is to change as much as you can while its out. you'd be crazy not to rebuild to bowl and FPR while it was out, since the FPR screen will be completely covered in gunk, and if one oring failed - the rest may not be far behind. personally - i would also unplug and totally remove the fuel heater in the bowl, as you truck will run fine without it, and that heater can short out and cause alot of problems. mine shorted and cost me $500 to get my pcm reflashed.
you can buy a rebuld kit for the fuel bowl and FPR for very little money that will replace every single o ring in that area. the water in fuel sensore is something you can eliminate if you change your fuel filter regularly. its the sensor itself that leaks, not the oring around it. remove the sensor, replace with a brass plug. the blue fuel lines are avaliable from the dealer and not expensive - replace them. check the pressure at the pump. if the pressure is low or the pump is leaking, a replacment is around $100 and worth changing if its old and you already have the bowl removed. the crush washers at the banjo bolt should also be replaced IF you already have eveything else out.. it is possible to do without reomving the turbo pedestal. not very easy - but possible - youll need a 1 1/8" closed end wrench.
i found fuel leaking from 3 different spots when i took mine apart. if you remove the fuel bowl and FPR (fuel pressure regulator) youll need to remove the high pressure rubber lines than come off the FPR and goto the front of each head. if you do this, remove the wire loom that covers these line. the one that goes to the driver side head has a severe bend in it, and if there is ANY sign of cracking at all - REMOVE AND REPLACE THESE LINES. they are under pressure and will SPRAY GALLONS of fuel everywhere in minutes if they crack. lastly - be carefull replacing the fuel filter. always drain the bowl first before removing the lid. failure to do this can cause the large oring on the cover to be sucked out of place, and kinked if you screw it back down. if that happen fuel will spray eveywhere, and you will have to buy another filter just to get the oring. if you decide to change the pump, make sure you pull it straight up and that you dont break off the bottom of the pump OR drop the tappet down the hole. lift pump just enough to seperate it, and LOOK to make sure the tappet is not falling out, or grap it with needle nose. if the tappet falls, it will wind up in the oil pan.
here :
fuel bowl rebuild kit:
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...parts/6-002-94-97-f-series-fuel-bowl-kit.html
blue fuel lines:
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...em-parts-filters/6-018-fuel-pump-hoses-2.html
and
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...parts-filters/6-019-fuel-pump-upper-hose.html
new clamps:
http://www.dieselorings.com/6-026-fuel-injection-hose-clamps-blue-hose.html
banjo bolt gaskets:
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...rs/6-055-banjo-bolt-gaskets-package-of-2.html
water in fuel sensor ( i would just remove ad replace with appropiate sized brass plug, either 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4 npt for about $3. removing this sensor will NOT make a light come on in the dash)
http://www.dieselorings.com/1994-19...rts/6-033-94-1-2-97-water-in-fuel-sensor.html
new fuel pump -
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...56&partkey=296093&a=FRc1126921k296093-1501999
IF you need them or just want to play it safe - the high pressure rubber lines are about $60 that come off the FPR and goto the heads. PLEASE - inspect these line if you move or disturb them. aside from making a huge mess, they will empty your tank in minutes.
advance auto has a replacement airtex fuel pump for $100
pump removal -
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1021390-1996-f250-7-3-fuel-pump-removal-trouble.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qlu4V6VN8ec&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kohInGh3dto
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrKnxefO84g
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