Front Axle--Rework or Replace?

[gabbyr100rs]

Gents,

The Dana 50 front on my 91 F250HD 4X4 extended cab long bed is showing its age--steering is getting sloppy. What will I be looking at to rebuild what I have now (auto hubs) versus swapping in a Dana 60 when I find one?

I have heard/read that my front frame rails will have to be boxed in to handle the Dana 60 swap, along with various other bits from an F-350 if I go that direction--which is what I think I really want to do.

Do any of you have a laundry list of "stuff" that I will need to chase down to make a swap to a Dana 60? I have done a search of this site, and it appears that springs, a track bar, maybe a cross member, dropped pitman arm, and a few other pieces.

Any help or direction that you may be able to give will be appreciated--including where you would begin your search for the axle.

I bought the truck new in '91, my son drove it for 4 years, and I just got it back from him three months ago. It is still in good shape inside and out, and I would like to be buried in it.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[bikepilot]

It would be less expensive to just re-build your unit I suspect, but the D-60 would be cool. Chances are, any used D-60 you find will need new ball joints etc just like your current D-50 does. If you have no complaints about the TTB system I'd recomend replacing whatever is worn out to get the steering back up to snuf and enjoy another 15 years of good service. My guess is that you could use ball joints, tie rod ends and a steering box, plus perhaps TTB and leaf spring bushings.

good luck

 

[912504x4]

I would swap it out

I rebuilt the 50 in my truck a year ago.
New balljoints new pinion new carrier bearings new u joints new seals new wheel bearings. I forgot the tiny little needle bearings so I had to go back in for them a few month later. I replaced the hubs after that and installed helper springs for my clapped out 250 stuff.
I took it over to get aligned and they worked on it for 3 hours trying to get it right. They eneded up getting it close and gave up. They claim my housing is bent from the weight of the 7.3 and whatever had been loaded on it in the past. One side is worse than the other.
I wish I would have saved my cash and installed the 60 and gotten it over with in the first place.
You say you want a 60 eventually so to spend the money on your 50 would be a waste of your time and money.
What gear ratio 60 are you going to be looking for? I will get you a few salvage yard numbers to try.
Only an opinion. You may have better luck with your 50 than I did. Good luck either way.
Eric

 

[Magoo]

The independent units have several bushings that when worn out make the truck unpleasant to drive. As bike pilot mentioned replacing "all" the bushings and the tie rod ends would bring her back to life. I never was a lover of those front ends but they definately handle better on the highway.

 

[Magoo]

I took it over to get aligned and they worked on it for 3 hours trying to get it right.

Where did you take it? That seems unusual



They eneded up getting it close and gave up. They claim my housing is bent from the weight of the 7.3 and whatever had been loaded on it in the past. One side is worse than the other.

I personaly never saw a bent housing unless for maybe a collision. The design of this front end transfers the weight to the pivot. Thats why that bushing is always worn out. Sounds like some other part was not up to ***** and gave these guys some trouble.

 

[bikepilot]

Most places have no clue when it comes to aligning these front ends. My local alignment shop (does a great job on cars and well respected) didn't even know you could swap out the upper ball joint bushing to change camber/caster. I'll admit that the design is pretty crude and it can be very difficult to get it all right, but geez, its not rocket science. I ended up taking it on myself as when I bought the truck it had way too much camber and toe causing insane wear on the outside edges of the front tires. I bought several sizes of camber/caster bushings and played around with it till it drove pretty well and the wheels looke to be more or less perpendicular to the road. I put nearly 3k miles on the truck on a recent trip with this setup and was quite happy with the way it drove and the lack of any weird tire wear. Given my choice I'd pefer a solid front axle, but given the work involved in a swap I can make due with the ttb system.

good luck

 

[912504x4]

I took my truck to 3 other shop to get aligned and they wouldnt even give me a quote because they knew it would take much longer than any other vehicle to align.
Anyhow, here is a list of 60 axles for you to choose from.
bear in mind it will be up to you to call and get a freight quote. mine cost $100.00 to ship in from Iowa to IL to be prepared for $100-$150 shipping.
You should also make sure the axle is complete when you call and since you will be shipping in the axle and paying for the pallet freight go ahead and buy the trackbar and bracket etc from them to save on shipping in the long run.

solid 60's list
year cost ratio phone number location

92 $750 3.54-1 1-586-777-7400 mi?
97 $600 3.54-1 1-734-782-2807 ma?
90 $600 3.54-1 1-931-879-4457 tennesse
89 $550 3.54-1 1-800-552-4557 ct.
88 $500 4.10-1 1-800-552-4557 ct.
93 $700 4.10-1 1-800-831-6300 ?
95 $700 4.10-1 1-313-381-1112 ?

All these axles should be about the same. The brakes did change a little bit from year to year.
The 91 and earlier use king pin instead of ball joints so they are supposed to be a little bit stronger.

Remember to verify the gear ratio etc. with them on the phone when you call because anybody can make a mistake when entering data. including me.

Later,
Eric

 

[Cowboy_Customs]

I'm not of much use here unfortunatly, except for the fact that I have a 60 I would like to unload, but not really to conserned about keeping it either :Sly
Its out of a 90, it is COMPLETLY EMPTY! just the axle itself, knuckles, spring plates, and the swaybar (I bought it this way to save it from the crusher ) If your interested ( or anyone else for that matter ) PM and I'll give u a price. I dont want to say cause its not the Marketplace forum. Just thought Id offer it sence you were talkin bout finding one to swap in.

:draw

 

[gabbyr100rs]

I think I'll Replace It

I remember when I first looked under the front end when I picked the truck up at the dealer in Hempstead, TX--I thought I was getting a solid front end and was surprised and a little disappointed by the TTB set-up. That said, it has turned in pretty good service up until now.

I think I will take some of your sage advice and go look for a 3:54 D60--I'll call about the one in Tennessee tomorrow. It has the design that I am looking for. I am prepared to give up some ride to get the tougher front end--and can overhaul it as required on jack stands in my garage prior to installation.

I remember having to replace the upper ball joint bushings when the truck had relatively few miles on it--the front end man couldn't get enough adjustment out of the ones that came on it from the factory to bring it to spec. That seemed odd to me--the tech muttered something about a "less than ideal design" as I complained about having to shell out what were significant bucks for me for parts that I figured shouldn't have worn out so soon!

If I can snag the complete axle complete with innards from TN, I would rather do that versus building up the housing. I appreciate the offer, and I commend your saving the pieces from destruction--who would just trash a D60 housing anyway??

Once I get the axle, I will get back with you guys to ask for help in assembling the necessary parts--particularly what I need to replace to put the axle into like-new shape, and what the truck will require to accept the transplant.

I will be looking for F350 front springs--will they fit on the existing hangers, or will I need to acquire new ones? I hope the axle comes with tie rods. Where do I look for a dropped pitman arm, and how much of a drop? I am not looking to lift the truck any more than what the F350 springs will accomplish--it is very close getting in and out of parking garages as it is!!

I read about needing an F-350 cross-member so I can use my existing front drive shaft? Are any of you aware of whether I need to have my frame members boxed in to accept the D60, and if so, is a kit available, or do I go find a competent front end mechanic that is also a welder??

Thanks mucho for sharing your experience. This web site is a HUGE resource for those of us afflicted with the IDI bug..

Thanks again.

 

[sle2115]

I put the Dana 60 under my truck, but it is an 87. No crossmember needed, no boxing of the frame, direct bolt in, everything including the track bar mounting bracket bolted in, holes were already there. I had to use the yoke at the transfer case from the F350 and the front drive shaft from the F350 (double cardon joint type) to get the crossmember clearance and flex for the taller ride height, but other than that, nothing was a major pain. Holding up the front of these heavy trucks is the challenge.

Personally, I would never go back. NOTHING about the dana 44 was better in my truck, it sucked. Then again, I think about every part of it was worn out as well. My boat handles better in a raging stream with the motor off than my truck drove. It was all over the place. Now, it drives like it should.

In my opinion, swap out the 50 for a Dana 60 and don't look back.

 

[NapaBavarian]

Eric- Where did you find those numbers?

 

[gabbyr100rs]

Hey Eric and all,

I found a complete '89 F-350 with a D60 front end from the list that you supplied. The one in TN was gone, but the one in CT is still there, buried in 22" of snow at the moment. I am told that the truck is a worn-out gasser--and maybe an old plow truck. Being located in CT, I expect some scale on the axle housing that will need to be sand blasted off--especially if it saw a lot of snowplow work. I wonder if every bolt that I need to pull off will need to be drilled out due to brine induced corrosion? Visions of throwing the tie-rod assembly away.

I have somehow gotten the idea that I should swap out the reverse arch springs that hold up the D50 on my truck for the positive arch F-350 springs, if that is what the donor truck has on it. My question to you and any other experienced members is if that is the direction that I need to go? I expect that the 7.3L is a heavier than the gasser engine--whichever one it was--and therefore I would at least need to beef up the springs off the '89 if I get them, unless a plow equipped truck carries heavier springs. Would my existing reverse arch springs work, assuming they are not bagged out? Will F-350 springs fit onto the D50 mounts on my F250HD?

The list of major parts that I have accumulated to make the swap include:
Axle, track bar and mounting plate, regular arched springs from an F-350, spring plates (will my existing ones work?), double cardan joint drive shaft, drive shaft yolk for my transfer case to mount up with the dcj drive shaft, tie rods, steering link and dropped pitman arm--all from the donor truck. At 150K, I prolly need a new steering box, too. I am counting on rebuilding the D60 as to bearings and U-joints and new tie rod ends.

Am I on the right track or am I making this into a bigger project than it needs to be? Should I tackle parts coming from CT sight unseen by me?

I am figuring on bolting my existing brakes onto the D60, and upgrading whatever hubs come with the axle.

I appreciate your plowing thru this post and sharing whatever you can.

 

[sassyrel]

well-when i put mine in--i made sure the yard gave me all the parts to put it in--track bar--and all the rest--straight bolt in-with new spring u bolts--torqued correctly--reused my driveshaft also--resued the existing springs--and stood 1" taller when done because no twisting force on the springs because of the ttb--

 

[gabbyr100rs]

sassyrel,

What year model is your truck? Your reply is very encouraging. Other than the track bar, track bar mounting plate and new U bolts and nuts, what other parts did you get with the D60? Were you able to mount up your existing steering linkage to the D60 tie rods? Any problem with your stock pitman arm being too short given the 1' lift from the springs being relieved of some of their stress??

Thanks for the reply!

 

[zigg]

Gabby

I welded my D50 into a solid unit. I then used F350 steering/track bar and springs to mount it. You don't need to box in the front end, but you do need to get rid of the reverse arch springs, and use the steering arms from the F350 or you will get a lot of bump steer, and weird steering and tire wear.

I would never have another TTB of IFS suspension system!

Zigg