Freeze plug Tool Plans.

[GOOSE]

The plans are there for those with the ability or connections to get one done. It may not save you any money to have to pay to have one made, but then again, OTC has this nasty habit of not wanting to sell the things to folks who aren't a shop, so it may be the only way to get one for some people.
As far as replacing one in the frame, I wouldnt. It's kind of like cocroaches. if you see one, theres a hundread in the walls, same with bad freeze plugs. If they botched one, you can pretty well bet the rest are on their way out.. On mine , I lost the rear one, but what I found on the rest was pitiful

Well, at least I'm proficient at pulling engines by now

 

[sassyrel]

http://www.dieselwarden.net/temp/freezeplugtool.jpg

[/QUOTE]

ive tried to print it,,and cant??? thanks

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I just printed the plans (Thanks a LOT RLDSL)) I'll be making one this winter while working at my winter job.

I'd imagine that the 3.5" radius is what does the actual sealing of the freeze plug?

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I feel the engineers that designed these blocks did the wrong thing with these concave freez plugs. Why they didn't just bore the plug locations thu and install a cupped type plug is beyond me. A quality machine shop could do this work but it will be very costly. And if they are boreing out the locations why not cut 1 1/4 inch tapered pipe threads.. Then we can screw in the Boss 429 screw in plugs and be done with it forever. I think they are a cast iron plug...

Whoa! Now there's an idea! It would be costly, but very good thinking!

 

[icanfixall]

I just printed the plans (Thanks a LOT RLDSL)) I'll be making one this winter while working at my winter job.

I'd imagine that the 3.5" radius is what does the actual sealing of the freeze plug?

Actually thats only half of the seal made by this special tool. The outside part holds the plug in the machined register in the block against the stop. Then the center part of the tool punches down the center of the plug causing it to mushroom out and bite into the cast iron block area. This tool actually needs a dimple in the center of it to create the exact defination that the factory plugs had. Also remember to use a sealant. The ractory did but its no longer made nor available in any form.. Saddly thats a wish list item on my bucket list...

 

[The Warden]

ive tried to print it,,and cant??? thanks

What error message are you getting? Are you saving the picture to your hard drive first?

 

[RLDSL]

I just printed the plans (Thanks a LOT RLDSL)) I'll be making one this winter while working at my winter job.

I'd imagine that the 3.5" radius is what does the actual sealing of the freeze plug?

It is just one integral critical part, and it emphisizes the importance of using the factory plugs. The factory plugs are an exact fit for that radius and the outer part of the tool , when seated, holds the plug in place and keeps the outer ring from deforming any when the center of the plug is dimpled down which would result in loss of seal. THat curvature holds the plug evenly all around while the center gets a solid thump and the sides get seated out around it


This is where all these bubba types in the machine shops are messing up trying to set plugs without the tool, they *Think* they can eyeball the dimple by popping it in the center, but they have no way to account for the rebound flex on the edges or to accurately measure the dimple and they end up with plugs getting blown out all over the country. I'm sure these are the same type of folks who would sit around and argue to the death that they dont need a torque wrench too

The best sealant to use with these plugs is Hylomar racing formula this is some high tech stuff ( same stuff that is factory sealant for Rolls Royce jet aircraft engines in a different tube, except the aerograde costs a tad more because of the aircraft certification) it has the unique ability to form a curtain when stretched over small gaps during engine warm up and cool down to prevent leakage and to not harden and continue to perform this function throughout its service life.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

After looking at the pictures again. It looks like the inner part with the mushroom head end goes together with the outer part with the 3.5" radius?

If that's the case, then the parts in the drawing are reversed?

 

[sassyrel]

What error message are you getting? Are you saving the picture to your hard drive first?

no error,,just put the pic up,,said to print,,and i get blank paper...

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Try "save picture as" before you try and print

 

[icanfixall]

The tool seating faces are not reversed. The outside holds the plug in place on the curvature. The inner plunger hit the center of the plug spreading it out into the cast iron block. It can only move a certain measured amount into the outer sleeve. Then both the inner and outer parts of the tool will be driving the plug into the block but thats not what the design of the tool is made for. The inner plunger will "ring" when it has pressed the plug to its proper seat area.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

The drawing shows the radius-ed end opposite the mushroom shaped inner plunger

 

[riotwarrior]

The drawing shows the radius-ed end opposite the mushroom shaped inner plunger

That is correct and it's supposed to be that way!

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Ok, then the mushroom head does not go inside the freeze plug?

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok, then the mushroom head does not go inside the freeze plug?

NO....the tool is pressed against the plug with the inner portion stickig out a bit from the outer tool...hold outter tool square to plug, plug square in bore and strike the mushroom end which forces the small end against the core plug making a dimple in the plug locking it in place.