Flow rate of fuel filter?

[RLDSL]

I bought a 100 watt electric pad to go around the filter will cover it with a real good insulation board I have access to.........it is 110 volt so I plan on plugging in to 110 on a timer to come on in mornings.......change over a 12v to 110 inverter while driving........see if that is enough wattage to heat it up.

Scott

That ought to work nicely. I made a band heater for the main filter on one of my diesel cars with an 80 watt 12v pad heater and it works great.
I didn't bother insulating it, instructions with the pad heater were pretty specific about not doing that, I just glued the heater inside a drain pipe band clamp and wired it through a relay. It gets plenty hot
. a 100 watt heater ought to keep that fuel filter toasty

--------Robert

 

[JeffMoss1]

Quick Heat transfer calculation

So 30 g/h = .028 kg/s using the density of diesel fuel
specific heat is around 1.5-2 probably kJ/kg/K

Assuming your starting with fuel that is 32 degrees F

If you want to get to the values on the left column for temperature of your fuel after the heater, you need to use this many Watts.

Also this is for an ideal situation, you have to factor in inefficient heat transfer.

The formula is Q=m'*CP*(Tout-Tin)

Q is in watts
m' is kg/s
cp is kj/(kg*K)
T is in degrees celcius or Kelvin


Farenheit Watts
50 496.825
68 993.65
86 1490.475
104 1987.3
122 2484.125
140 2980.95
158 3477.775
176 3974.6
194 4471.425
212 4968.25
230 5465.075

 

[LA350]

That ought to work nicely. I made a band heater for the main filter on one of my diesel cars with an 80 watt 12v pad heater and it works great.
I didn't bother insulating it, instructions with the pad heater were pretty specific about not doing that, I just glued the heater inside a drain pipe band clamp and wired it through a relay. It gets plenty hot
. a 100 watt heater ought to keep that fuel filter toasty

--------Robert

Where and how much did you pay for the heater?
Thanks!!

 

[kcw12]

The fuel filters we have stock on our truck is 12 GPH, while as the frame 6643 is about 90 GPM (yes gallon per minute) and has a better micron rating.

 

[RLDSL]

Where and how much did you pay for the heater?
Thanks!!

The heater was about $55 from here
I got the band clamp to set it in at Lowes near the drain pipes for $3 look at the greaseworks website, I made one just like their filter band heater they sell for $100

---------Robert

 

[ttman4]

The fuel filters we have stock on our truck is 12 GPH, while as the frame 6643 is about 90 GPM (yes gallon per minute) and has a better micron rating.

KCW12, what is the 6643 you refer to?
On the Wix Filter site it shows our 7.3 stock filters (Wix#33217) as 90GPH with a 12 micron rating.
I like the Wix & couple other sites because I'm always cking specs., sizes, micro, filter cross references etc etc. for several different rigs & machines I have....I've crossed many cheaper or better filters that will work several times.

Originally Posted by2manydslsIn my two diesels with the 105 gallon aux. tanks, I use a manual switch to go to the big tanks. I then set a kitchen timer for 40 minutes. I usually switch at about 1/8 th of a tank on the stock tank. I'm then running off of the large tank and the excess is going to the selected stock tank.

Don't ask....As a tip, don't take a 30 min "rest my eyes" nap that turns into a 3hr nap in the rest area with manual switch still set on your homemade pride-n-joy 140gal aux bed tank, return fuel back into selected stock tank, engine revved & set about 1100RPM, -10,-15Fbelow, tired as heck, wake up with sun shinning, parking lot covered in snow, BIG puddle of fuel all over lot, several people standing round glaring at you.....without even taking time to releave yourself, 'ya just put it in gear & slink out'a there.....
Don't even ask...all I'll say is it happened somewhere between here & E. TX long ago....

BTW, since then I've heard that 100-105-110gal tank is biggest that legally can be carried & pulled out of....you can have 20 of that size & pull out of if you can stack 'em up, just can't be bigger than ???size.
States or Feds or somebody call it Transporting Fuel if the tank being pulled out of is too big...
Just what I've heard.

 

[ttman4]

So 30 g/h = .028 kg/s using the density of diesel fuel
specific heat is around 1.5-2 probably kJ/kg/K

Assuming your starting with fuel that is 32 degrees F

If you want to get to the values on the left column for temperature of your fuel after the heater, you need to use this many Watts.

Also this is for an ideal situation, you have to factor in inefficient heat transfer.

The formula is Q=m'*CP*(Tout-Tin)

Q is in watts
m' is kg/s
cp is kj/(kg*K)
T is in degrees celcius or Kelvin


Farenheit Watts
50 496.825
68 993.65
86 1490.475
104 1987.3
122 2484.125
140 2980.95
158 3477.775
176 3974.6
194 4471.425
212 4968.25
230 5465.075

Hope I ask this right....I'm not even sure what I'm asking.
So Jeff, lets say I want my fuel at 176degF I need 3974.6 total Watts used to get to 176*F? This being the total amt of energy/BTU to get job done?

You not saying that there has to be a 3900Watt heater used??? right?

 

[LA350]

Thanks for the link. I was hoping to find something cheaper. I don't know what these things are running pricewise. I found this for 40.00 shipped and thought it was a good deal. I swa what you had posted and figured it may be cheaper?
http://www.fattywagons.com/fwproducts.htm

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[JeffMoss1]

Hope I ask this right....I'm not even sure what I'm asking.
So Jeff, lets say I want my fuel at 176degF I need 3974.6 total Watts used to get to 176*F? This being the total amt of energy/BTU to get job done?

You not saying that there has to be a 3900Watt heater used??? right?

Watts is Joules/second, so it's not an amount of energy is an amount of energy per second. (Joule is another unit for BTU.) Its a rough calculation, but that's probably at least what you'll need. (So yes, 3900 Watt heater).

You'll need to find the correct specific heat value (Cp) for the fuel you're using (WVO, WMO, #2 diesel) and find its density and redo the calculation, but it's going to be around what I calculated and you'll probably want to go higher than that if you want to be sure you're above a certain temp.

This is why when guys do wvo, they use the hot engine coolant to heat the whole fuel line (fuel tube inside a coolant tube.) Waste heat from the engine (that is collected by the coolant at least) is right up there at the energy level you need for WVO.

Also, you won't be putting a greater load on your alternator by running the heater, which will make your mileage worse.

Let me know if i can help more. Fluids and heat transfer are my strength.

 

[JeffMoss1]

the only way it'll work with less than that is if we don't have the correct flowrate through the filter. (which is possible)

If these guys have had success in the past with other values for wattage, then maybe we've got a variable wrong.

Jeff

 

[ttman4]

Thanks Jeff. I gonna save somo of this info....makes lots things fall in place.
Some of this Joules, watts, heat transfer, & that formula is a little familiar, I emphasize Little.
Few yr ago I took some AC classes & we hit & missed on some of that stuff, directly & indirectly. When I got thru all that stuff, I was given a card that said I was a Card Carrying Certified Genuine AC Guru that knew everything about everything! What I knew I could write on back of that little-bitty card!
Too old, slow, dumb.....& too damn much modern day electronics for me! Anything more than a radio knob, I get lost!

You're right about heating fuel. What I've seen the HIH or HOH and/or a plate heat exchanger works great. Insulate the heck out of everything.

As far as electrical fuel heaters, I've been curious about the heaters that use glow plugs. Not sure what plug they use. Ive heard or read maybe 24v plug....as well as keeping it immersed in the fuel & apparently they seem to last. But I've never seen one.
Dana, IIRC over on the Infopop board builds, puts together some of these....I kinda hate to go out asking about his proprietary stuff he's worked up.

 

[JeffMoss1]

Not too old, slow or dumb...it's the kinda stuff you've gotta love and do every day or else it just leaves ya. I admit it...I am a full fledged nerd for this stuff.

Let me know if you ever have any stuff to design or calculate, I'd love to help out if I can.

Jeff

P.S. - Another interested thing I just thought of is that there might be warm fuel coming into the fuel filter already from the return line. That makes the equation more complicated. Need to do figure out those flow rates and temperatures too.

I've recently installed some extra valves and tees into my fuel lines in order to have a diagnostics fuel tank inside the van so that I can figure out fuel flow rates for different driving conditions. I plan on posting all my data once I have it (assuming I ever get my engine to start.)