Fkd stuff up need help!!!!!!!!

[6.9poweredscout]

well here we go, i was tightening up the intake on the 6.9 and the one bolt was a little tight, so i gave it a bit more ***** than the rest and pop.....it broke. it's on the pass side, rear most bolt. i drilled the center out, and tapped in an easy out, it broke off. i tried to tap out the easy out with a chisel, it broke, so i tried to tap it in a little and drill it out more, drill bits just smoke. i got it in far and cleaned out alot of the bolt with a pointed rotary file, but can't get through/past that piece. any ideas? is there any drill bits that can cut hardened steel? a friend suggested to cut the head along the threads and tap in a chisel then try to thread out the bolt then weld the cut up, i'm not too keen on that idea but as a last resort i'll do anything rather than have the head replaced! today was not my day i should have stayed in bed.

thanks,
-Jon

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Are you turbo-charging? If not, I'd just leave that bolt alone - we don't have vacuum leaks like gassers do, so even if the intake is not super-duper-crazy-well sealed to the head, it ain't gonna be much of an issue. Heck, at least you still got the bolt on the other side of that runner - my buddy's '86 had the brackets for lifting the engine removed at some point in its life, but the bolts that go through them were not replace with shorter ones, and the gap left by the missing brackets wasn't compensated for with washers either, so these 4 bolts didn't really do anything for the intake - truck ran just fine tho, a bit better than my 7.3 actually.

 

[RLDSL]

There is always a chance of winding up with a coolant leak if you don't have even bolt torque on those intake manifold bolts from the coolant passages in the heads. Most have freeze plugs, but if the heads were done at a normal machine shop, chances are they didn't use the proper stainless plugs and they will rust through quickly and the only thing holding back the coolant will be that gasket and those bolts

you need to get that thing taken care of.

Get a can of Aero Kroil and soak the bolt for 2 days before attempting anything further

You may need to remove the injection pump and remove the intake manifold. once you have all the other bolts off, you * should* be able to lift it off over the remains of what you have there ( you are looking at it, tell me if I'm wrong here ) if going that route, spray all the other bolts with kroil and let sit 2 days before attempting to remove. you don't want any more breaking.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ya know, I didn't realize the intake was still on the engine - by far the easiest way of approaching the situation then will be like RLDSL said, this will hopefully leave enough material of the bolt exposed off the head that you can attempt another extraction. Aero Kroil seems to do miracles sometimes, it is far superior to the WD40 everyone seems to love so much.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

i'm assembling the engine, i was tightening the bolts the i/p is off as well the intake. i will be turbocharging it eventually.....


-Jon

 

[ddec4me]

If the broken piece is pretty close to the surface an effective way I extract them when I brake off an easy out is to weld a nut to the broken stud. Just place the nut over the hole and plug weld from the end of the bolt out. You can do this without damage to the engine or threads usually. May take a couple of trys welding and breakng the nut off before it turns loose but is has always worked. I think the heat introduced helps loosen the bolt. I only use this as a last resort as I dont like to weld on engines unless I need to. Make sure the ground is as close to your weld as possible to prevent an arc somewhere you dont want one. You are definately faced with a bad situation. My heart always sinks when I break an easy out or a drill bit off in a bolt. Thats all I got. Oh Yeah and soak it in penn oil. I have never used this aero kroil but I hear lots of good stuff. I use one that Kimball Midwest sells its basically a corosion eating penn oil.

 

[sootman73]

a guy did this after putting a new aluminum head on a motor. he brought it to us to fix after he borrowed our easy out and broke that off in it. i'm not sure what they ended up doing but i know a guy told me that the only way he could think of getting it out was to use a diamond point drill bit. they are like $40-60 IIRC. you might wanna try that as it will probably be the best way to go.

 

[Camarogenius]

Never used aerokroil, but PB B'laster has saved my butt a few times.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Damn Jon, Where's Your Torque Wrench?????

You might look around for mobile bolt removers. Most bigger Cities will have a a skilled welder that will come to Your place, and get a rod burned on the end of the broken bolt, without fubaring the threads.
I've seen it done, they Guy was there for 10 Mins. $60

 

[NJKen]

If the broken piece is pretty close to the surface an effective way I extract them when I brake off an easy out is to weld a nut to the broken stud. Just place the nut over the hole and plug weld from the end of the bolt out. You can do this without damage to the engine or threads usually. May take a couple of trys welding and breakng the nut off before it turns loose but is has always worked. I think the heat introduced helps loosen the bolt. I only use this as a last resort as I dont like to weld on engines unless I need to. Make sure the ground is as close to your weld as possible to prevent an arc somewhere you dont want one. You are definately faced with a bad situation. My heart always sinks when I break an easy out or a drill bit off in a bolt. Thats all I got. Oh Yeah and soak it in penn oil. I have never used this aero kroil but I hear lots of good stuff. I use one that Kimball Midwest sells its basically a corosion eating penn oil.

This is always the best way. If you have enough bolt left to weld to anyway. This method has never failed for me. the heat does help a lot. The only thing I can add to this is:
Use the highest heat you can without blowing the metal rite out of it. Experiment with similar bolts and nuts to get your heat settings rite first! Another thing I do is hold the nut in place with the ground clamp. That prevents the possibility of arcing something inside the motor. I always like to dissconnect the battery and ground the vehicle to the same ground the welder is grounded too. I usually do that with jumper cables.
Ken

 

[icanfixall]

Usually if you hit an easy out it will shatter because its such a hard material but... Removing the intake manifold is the best way of getting at whats left of the bolt. Sounds like you have a bottomed out bolt. There are some intake bolts that are longer beacuse they hold the motor lifting lugs... Found that out the hard way too some time ago.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Usually if you hit an easy out it will shatter because its such a hard material but... Removing the intake manifold is the best way of getting at whats left of the bolt. Sounds like you have a bottomed out bolt. There are some intake bolts that are longer beacuse they hold the motor lifting lugs... Found that out the hard way too some time ago.

Yeps, that'd be the ones I was talking about in my first post in the thread, good thing whoever removed the lifting brackets from my buddy's truck never reefed back on the bolts - well, I have to say I did, but it didn't take me much to realize they had bottomed out and that I really need either shorter bolts, or some spacers - I opted for grabbing a set of lifting brackets from the junkyard, and returning the engine back to factory configuration.

 

[Agnem]

And your CALIBRATED torque wrench was set to what? There is a torque value and sequence to that intake you know. I broke a rocker arm bolt off doing the same thing you just did, and that was WITH the torque wrench. Unfortunately, I failed to notice the diference between Ft-LB and N-M. on the chart. Thankfully it wasn't bottomed out and I used a dental pick to just spin it out.

 

[typ4]

x2 what ddec said, I have layed a flat washer over the offending bolt ,welded it then welded the nut on, seems to spread the weld out better that just the nut. Get a good weld on it and it will come out. I have never seen anything drill out an easy out, even diamond bits.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

yeah, the torque wrench was on the bench..... i torqued a few then that one was a bit more snug. i thought when i checked they were all the same size. i tried to weld a bolt after i broke the ezout, but there wasnt enough bolt left to bite to. i got some cobalt bits and some rotary files i'm going to try to chew it out, if i mess it up too much i'll go get a heli-coil kit.


-Jon