First no start situation

[crash-harris]

Had my first hot no start today. Started normal at the house, loaded up the dogs and drove 18 miles to the bank, backed into a spot and shut 'er down. Ran in and back out (hot outside and the dogs both have lots of fir) and proceeded to crank, wait 2 mins, crank, wait, etc until the batteries started to drain. Got a jump and after a few cranks, no problem. 2 hot starts today with no other issues, just talking a few seconds longer.

I had even tried pouring luke warm water on the rotor side of the IP (1/4-1/2 bottle) with no change when it wasn't firing. I've aimed before that I could do with new injectors and IP, but hasn't done this before or since. I know I could use a new starter and planned on a 3G swap. At idle the batteries are only seeing 13.06 ~ volts.

 

[IDIoit]

the very first thing i do with a no start issue is push the schrader valve and check for fuel.
never know when it can get a gulp of air.

 

[cpdenton]

How slow are those batteries cranking that thing over?

I always thought that mine cranked so good, until I changed both batteries, positive and ground cables. Now, I know it cranks good.

I wonder if they are getting weak enough that when it cranked it didn't have enough voltage for the fss? Just wild guessing with that.

 

[crash-harris]

How slow are those batteries cranking that thing over?

I always thought that mine cranked so good, until I changed both batteries, positive and ground cables. Now, I know it cranks good.

I wonder if they are getting weak enough that when it cranked it didn't have enough voltage for the fss? Just wild guessing with that.

Brand new, matching 850 CCA batteries. They cranked just as fast as normal for a bit, but after a few cool downs they were getting weak. Also have beefied up ground cables and positive cables, look like 2ga.

 

[tbrumm]

A few years ago, I experienced a no start when hot condition with my truck. If I shut it down and then tried to start it again right away it would fire right up. If I shut it done for more than a few minutes, it would not start until if cooled down for at least 1/2 an hour. I knew it "shouldn't" be a worn out IP because it had low miles. I finally tracked the problem down to the FSS solenoid inside the IP. Once the truck was allowed to sit for a bit, heat soak would open the coil in the FSS solenoid. I replaced the solenoid and have not had a problem since. I don't think is a real common problem with our trucks, but might be something to consider as you try to diagnose the problem.

 

[crash-harris]

ATF in the fuel filter is one way of cleaning that, isn't it? I was hopeing to do a return line kit from Mel and the filter and WIF at the same time, but I may need to filter sooner rather than later.

 

[crash-harris]

Ah, being and electrical part, I would say ATF wouldn't do anything.

So where can I get a replacement FSS?

No luck via rockauto, autozone, ebay. Napa maybe?

 

[IDIoit]

post in the market place.

 

[crash-harris]

I did find one somewhere (early this morning, saved link) for about $100 for the kit.

However, did the same thing today. Stayed at home and drove to Sam's for fuel at $2.60 a gallon, but she did her normal hot start, which has always taken a little longer in the short time I've has the truck. About the same temperature outside today as yesterday. Maybe just warning signs? Noticed the stock dummy voltmeter is reading higher than it has been. Last time it read out higher was the drove home from buying the truck.

 

[crash-harris]

Just now noticed something. I get a click weekend turning the ignition back to "accessory" to listen to the radio in the parking lot here at work until I can clock in.

I've read somewhere that there is suspicion that leaving the ignition in the run position for long times can kill the FSS. The click is from the FSS, correct? If this is all true, then it energizes when the key is in the accessory position as well, so maybe I've been inadvertently been causing excess wear on it?

 

[OLDBULL8]

You don't "Wear out" an FSS per se, but if it's on for long periods of time without the fuel flowing around it to keep it relatively cool, the armature may stick and not pull in all the way, that makes the coil even hotter and may burn out the coil. The coil is coated with varnish and may melt a little and get on the armature causing it to stick. That may be what happened to THRUUM.

 

[madpogue]

I've read somewhere that there is suspicion that leaving the ignition in the run position for long times can kill the FSS. The click is from the FSS, correct? If this is all true, then it energizes when the key is in the accessory position as well, so maybe I've been inadvertently been causing excess wear on it?

Hmm, maybe your ignition switch is mis-wired. Easy enough to check for power at the FSS connector with the key in each position. You may be onto something....

 

[crash-harris]

If it's not raining Sunday (suppose to storm tomorrow) I'll check for power with the key in the accessory position. A sticky armature sounds more likely since it happened after driving and not leaving the key on aside from the 2 times a cycled the glow plugs before starting for the first time that day.