f350 front driveshaft yoke

RyanDamo

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Does anyone know the size of the bolt holding the front driveshaft yoke to the transfer case on a 93 f350, Im switching to the double cardan joint driveshaft that a local pick and pull has in the lot.
 

franklin2

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Does anyone know the size of the bolt holding the front driveshaft yoke to the transfer case on a 93 f350, Im switching to the double cardan joint driveshaft that a local pick and pull has in the lot.

Is there a reason you are doing this? I am thinking about installing a f350 shaft on my f250 also, because I am having vibration problems, and I think it has something to do with the angle of the front pumpkin after a lift was put in be the previous owner. When I was putting new bushings in the front springs, I noticed there was a aluminum wedge between the driver's side axle and the spring. I put it back like it was, but then I turned it around to point the pumpkin up. I think this was a mistake, but I have already had a frontend alignment done, so if I experiment with the wedge, I will have to get it re-aligned again. I was hoping the double-cardan shaft would mask any alignment problems between the transfer and the front pumpkin.
 

RyanDamo

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that is exactly my problem, the 4 inch lift makes around a 30 degree angle on both ends of the drive-shafts, im hoping the extra joint will lower the vibration, also who knows what is doing to the seal on the t case and axle
 

Diesel_brad

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Is there a reason you are doing this? I am thinking about installing a f350 shaft on my f250 also, because I am having vibration problems, and I think it has something to do with the angle of the front pumpkin after a lift was put in be the previous owner. When I was putting new bushings in the front springs, I noticed there was a aluminum wedge between the driver's side axle and the spring. I put it back like it was, but then I turned it around to point the pumpkin up. I think this was a mistake, but I have already had a frontend alignment done, so if I experiment with the wedge, I will have to get it re-aligned again. I was hoping the double-cardan shaft would mask any alignment problems between the transfer and the front pumpkin.

That aluminum shim is to correct your caster. With caster being out it can cause EXCESSIVE death wobble and no wheel return
 

Diesel_brad

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that is exactly my problem, the 4 inch lift makes around a 30 degree angle on both ends of the drive-shafts, im hoping the extra joint will lower the vibration, also who knows what is doing to the seal on the t case and axle

You dont "need" the 350 t-case yolk. You can just use a cross joint i think
 

franklin2

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You dont "need" the 350 t-case yolk. You can just use a cross joint i think

I have been doing some research on this. You can actually get rebuilt front driveshafts from Autozone. If you look up a later f350(around 1994) they use a flat flange on the driveshaft and a flat flanged yoke on the transfer case. I think this is why he is changing the yoke, because he is getting the later style driveshaft.

But I have found out that the earlier f350's (around 1987-1989) do have a different hook-up to the transfer case. Instead of having a flat flange at the double cardan, they have caps with small "U" castings around them. I am not sure about this, but this style just might go on the regular f250 transfer case yoke. I can't tell, but the holes in the casting on the double cardan might be threaded. If that's the case, then possibly some allen bolts would work to bolt it together.
 

franklin2

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That aluminum shim is to correct your caster. With caster being out it can cause EXCESSIVE death wobble and no wheel return

Well, however it was supposed to be, the alignment guy got all the parameters in spec by using the eccentric on the upper balljoint.

I figured the wedge was there to change the angle of the pumpkin, since it was used only on the driver's side of the ttb. It had a vibration when I first got it, and they originally had the wedge in place so the pumpkin nose pointed down. Just for a experiment, I turned the wedge around so the pumpkin nose pointed up, and the vibration got better. But after messing with it for the past year, I now realize the vibration got better when I pointed the nose up because the driveshaft was borderline too short, and I engaged the splines more by point the nose up. Now I am thinking maybe for the proper driveline angles, it should have possibly been left pointing down. It's a mess, and I want it right.
 

Diesel_brad

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I have been doing some research on this. You can actually get rebuilt front driveshafts from Autozone. If you look up a later f350(around 1994) they use a flat flange on the driveshaft and a flat flanged yoke on the transfer case. I think this is why he is changing the yoke, because he is getting the later style driveshaft.

But I have found out that the earlier f350's (around 1987-1989) do have a different hook-up to the transfer case. Instead of having a flat flange at the double cardan, they have caps with small "U" castings around them. I am not sure about this, but this style just might go on the regular f250 transfer case yoke. I can't tell, but the holes in the casting on the double cardan might be threaded. If that's the case, then possibly some allen bolts would work to bolt it together.

That t-case used from 96-97( BW 4407) has a flat flange for the REAR driveshaft only. The fronts still use the "u" castings and has 12 pt bolts thread into the double cardian joint
The t-case used from 83-95 (BW 1356) has a slip yolk for the rear shaft. The front uses the "U" casting as well. Some where in the 90s they went from u bolts holding the u-joint to the t-case to the bolts treading into the cardian join, but not when sure exactly
 
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RyanDamo

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im doing this on my 94 which still has the u casting, I was thinking about a cross joint but if im crawling under there to get the thing out, might as well just grab the yoke too, however i didnt even thinking that the auto stores would stock them, ill check rock auto
 

franklin2

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im doing this on my 94 which still has the u casting, I was thinking about a cross joint but if im crawling under there to get the thing out, might as well just grab the yoke too, however i didnt even thinking that the auto stores would stock them, ill check rock auto

Not all the stores do. Napa does, Autozone does, Advance Auto doesn't, and I don't believe Rock Auto does either. You have to turn your old one in as a core also. I believe most of them are just below $300 if you turn one in.
 

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