Engine stand

[icanfixall]

I used a commercial engine hoist and it worked very well lifting the engine over the core support. I do have pics of it hanging up there. May post some later. I too remove all the front parts off the engine and the radiater is removed too. My engine stand is the 2000 lb one but I did not get it from Horrible Freight. I can't recall the store I got it from either.. Its marginal at best. I had to modify the mounting years to fix the back of my engine. The ones that came with the stand were too short. Care needs to be taken when you center the mounts. The center of rotation balance is critical on these engines. Plus it will change as you remove or install the heads.

 

[riotwarrior]

Sounds good, but what about the bowden (hood latch) cable? Does that come out of the cab, or do you disconnect it from the latch and snake it out of the clip?

Good question to bring up I neglected that one small Item, thank you.

Actually there is a small clip that holds the cable to the latch, I just slip off the clip, then fish the cable out.

The bottom line is that it is really very simple to remove the entire front body work.

Ya sure those core support bolts might break, and they likely will...So what? What happened last time you broke a bolt? Did you fix it? If they break they are weak and need to be replaced. I'm soaking a pair right now as a matter of fact.

I found no need to lift cab when I remove the front clip, however I suppose it could be good. That just means more work, brake MC Steering and such.

The wire harness that loops around the inside of the fenders stays there when you remove the clip. You just undo the connectors on the drivers side by fire wall. Disconnect the engine harness from the main harness and that is it.

I don't even pull the rad out I leave it, I do however remove the shroud from the rad just unbolt, let sit on fan...

Simple, done this many times on these trucks and wouldn't do it any other way!

On my Bronco I can have the clip off in about an hour or less. All bolts well lubed and it's been on n off a couple times.

On a truck that's rusty, or not as prepped, it takes a bit more time say, 2 hours tops, now these times are with AIR and electric impact tools not just ratchet n wrenches.

Any way you choose, you live with consequences, such as body line alignment and various other things, removing rad support is less so as it's just one small part of puzzle. Just bag the different alignment shims and mark the LH or RH on the bag keeps it all easy!

Seeing as you likely are going clip off you'll find that it allows you TONS of room to clean the frame and parts and your D60 swap will be simpler as well. I'd strongly suggest that as you mentioned, it's likely going to snowball, and that this is best time for frame paint etc.


JM2CW

Al

 

[riotwarrior]

Here build one like this...

http://jniolon.classicpickup.com/enginestand/BDES.html

Now the only thing is his design of the front legs, I don't like them it's more likely tippy, however the idea of fitting INTO the engine hoist is a Bonus!

Just saying some ideas are good some are not.

Al

 

[laserjock]

That's pretty sweet.

I like the gear case to roll it over. That would be awesome.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Here is one that I made back in 1990 in a hurry when I was rebuilding the Allison V730 transmissions for the GM 4107 busses and others that had the crosswise engines. Worked just perfect for me. Those trannies weighed 1300 lbs.
The verticle pipe is 4". Gear reducer is out of a chicken coop chain feeder.

1st two pics is the V730 setting in trailer ready to scrap.

2nd two before I changed to engine stand.

3rd is after change, hanging is a 7.3 IDI

 

[BrandonMag]

I know the HF engine stands are generally regarded as worse than POS, but I've had a 12 valve on one of their 2K rated stands for almost two years and it's still in the same place today as it was when I put it on there. (I was told that the hardware that comes with the stand was junk but that the steel was reasonably decent. Upon inspection, I realized that if you're going to use this stand, an upgrade to grade 8 harddware is an ABSOLUTE NECESSITY.)
'Course, I had only planned on it being on the engine stand for at most two months, but that's another story...

 

[laserjock]

Old Bull,

I had actually considered doing something really similar. My thought was actually to put posts on both ends and turn the engine 90* and use the motor mount point so hold it. Then it would swivel end over end instead of around the center like that. I may go take a look at an HF 2k stand and then rebuild it. Where I am, I don't think I can buy the metal to build one for the price and I haven't been here long enough to have accumulated a stock pile of stuff. May be with a little modification and reinforcement, it would be just fine.

Guess I'll find out eventually.

 

[icanfixall]

Nice custom built stands. The one with the levelers front and back... Please adjust the rear ones with the weight on them. Lifting the front ones at the ends of the leggs can flip the load. Nice idea too. Now if towcat will just post a pic of his Rotunda engine stand you guys will be impressed. Those were made so the engines can be bolted to it by the side motor mount machined areas or from the back.. It also has a gear reduction drive to rotate the engines. To say it well built or heaveily built is an understatement.. It neededs a crane to lift it in or out of a truck...

 

[riotwarrior]

Funny how this topic runs around and around every so often and we all post similar info each time, maybe we should compile a bunch of thoughts into ONE concise thread and add in all the pictures....thus making a STICKY or Tech article...

Penny for yer thoughts...

Al

 

[laserjock]

I looked at those. For the low low price of $3995 ( I think), Amazon will deliver it to your door. Prime too.