egt and water temp seems too low

Macrobb

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Um... generally speaking... ALL the fuel. Just adjust it all the way in on the fuel screw, back the torque screw out all the way... and with any luck it'll clean up nicely. Flooring it off idle won't, but once you get the turbo spinnig, it should easily handle everything a stock pump can put out.
You can adjust down from there.

My '92 has a banks system, that cleans up nicely. '93 has a ford turbo, with larger than stock pump... it does pretty well.
Both truck's wastegates are disabled. 15 psi is better than 10.

Edit: youtube. There should be good videos explaining it. Fuel screw is under the side plate of the ip, torque screw is at the back, driver's side of the ip.
 

frankenwrench

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I top at 6 psi. Lol that's weighed down uphill and about 2400 rpm! Still not sure we're the torque/fuel screws are.
 

frankenwrench

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What's ur mpg's look like? I re threaded the wastegate rod and have 5 threads showing rather than... Well there was an inch and a half or so of threads were there's only a quarter inch now. Also she's not 7.3 that's back on stand gutted. This is 6.9. Can it handle as much? I only have head studs at 120 ft lbs of torque. They need more? Spec said only 80 after "catching the stretch" but apr didn't seem to stretch any.
 

frankenwrench

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Um. I have the 85 pump that never had the torque screw now that I look it up. So just adjust fuel screw?
 

Macrobb

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Um. I have the 85 pump that never had the torque screw now that I look it up. So just adjust fuel screw?
Then you don't need it. Just the fuel screw.

Please go on Youtube and search. I'm sure a 10 second search will explain exactly what you want to know about fuel screw turn up.

And, when adding corrections or additions and nobody has posted after you, just "edit" your post. This way you don't have multiple posts in a row.
 

Hydro-idi

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What's ur mpg's look like? I re threaded the wastegate rod and have 5 threads showing rather than... Well there was an inch and a half or so of threads were there's only a quarter inch now. Also she's not 7.3 that's back on stand gutted. This is 6.9. Can it handle as much? I only have head studs at 120 ft lbs of torque. They need more? Spec said only 80 after "catching the stretch" but apr didn't seem to stretch any.

You overtorqued those headbolts. If ARP says 80ft lbs, that’s what it should be. Wrenching them down only ruins the bolts, doesn’t benefit head gasket clamping force either.
They would know since they kinda engineered them.
 

OLDBULL8

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Thermo probe is on driver side exhaust manifold between second and third exhaust hole. Digitally measured.
The probe should be as close to #8 Cyl in exhaust manifold. #6 then #8 Cyl's fire, that's the hottest exhaust.
Is the probe screwed in the manifold or held in by a band?

Usually pulling my uncle's Massey. Weighs about 14200 on my 20 ft gooseneck. Not sure how much boxblade and bucket weighs. Pretty long uphill runs so between upshifting and downshifting it drops and fluctuates from 270 to 345 on egts
You should be seeing 1100*F to 1300*F EGT pulling that heavy of a load. Your GCVW, your overloaded. Tractor 14,200, trailer 4500, truck 8500, box scrapper 300, bucket 250. ? GCVW 27750, just a weight guess.

It takes a 5/32" Hex wrench to increase IP fuel, see pic. ATS recommends just one Hex increase when adding a Turbo. If the IP has ever been changed, the duel screw could be anyplace.

Not every IP has a torque screw. see pic.

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frankenwrench

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Ford recommended 80 for new bolts.ARP didn't specify But I put in solid copper head gaskets that don't crush like the ones I had. Will it really trash 201,000 kpsi studs? Got 15 k on rebuild. Should I back em off now?
 

Macrobb

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That is BAD advice. This is what can happen by doing that. See pic. The C ring can get caught, that results on maybe shearing the IP shaft.
I've never had any trouble... done it in 3 pumps so far?

Looking at that picture, it looks like the spring clip broke through the fuel screw, either from overtightening or something else?

Either way, like I said... I've had no issues what so ever. Obviously, I just turned it up until I felt that the screw wasn't moving anymore, so as to avoid stripping it.


edit:
Also, fuel screw is *maximum* fuel. You control the fuel with your right foot. More fuel = more power = less fuel economy.

So, want fuel economy? go slower, run lower loads, less acceleration.

Personally, I decided I'd take a little less fuel economy overall, and drive at 75(or whatever the maximum speed limit is) with a load on. The extra speed definitely hurts economy, but not more than 1-2 MPG unloaded.
 

frankenwrench

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Wow. Hell with those mpg's! The load isn't really an option. Bit I guess as long as I can at least keep 15s I guess I can live with it
 

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