Easy Rust Removal

[subway]

What would be the best way to prevent flash rust, if you just wanted to finish a bare metal surface? Drying it fast? I have heard about this a couple of years ago, so yesterday I had to try it. I have a ATC part in a bucket right now. I think acid is much quicker, I just would not use it on a really old antique.

for open bare metal you might be better with some petrolium jelly like rust eas sp? from a-zone or some thing.

i am sure acid works well but i have heard problems of it seeping back out of seams later on and ruining the paint. this justs seems dirt cheep and effective with no scary chamicals

 

[tonkadoctor]

What would be the best way to prevent flash rust, if you just wanted to finish a bare metal surface? Drying it fast? I have heard about this a couple of years ago, so yesterday I had to try it. I have a ATC part in a bucket right now. I think acid is much quicker, I just would not use it on a really old antique.

This rust removal method can take a few days, it's not an instant solution but it is very effective. For the flash rust get it dry as quickly as possible sand it and get some good epoxy primer on it.

Most primers are not waterproof, especially that quick dry spray can stuff and rustoleum primers, and will let the metal corrode if left without a top coat for too long.

Another primer, if you don't want to use epoxy primer, that is waterproof but laquer based is Dupont 100S fill and sand primer.

 

[dreadhed]

for open bare metal you might be better with some petrolium jelly like rust eas sp? from a-zone or some thing.

i am sure acid works well but i have heard problems of it seeping back out of seams later on and ruining the paint. this justs seems dirt cheep and effective with no scary chamicals

I might have to give the rust eas a try sometime. I am all ways redoing some part for a ATC. When I use acid on the inside of gas tanks is has all ways worked well. I have a bucket of it still maybe I will have to play with it some. I will post how it worked out. Acid is cheap too. Just get the pool acid for a hardware store or pool supply. It is a good way to remove rust with no chemicals, that doens make it attractive way of removing rust with out worring about your saftey.

This rust removal method can take a few days, it's not an instant solution but it is very effective. For the flash rust get it dry as quickly as possible sand it and get some good epoxy primer on it.

Most primers are not waterproof, especially that quick dry spray can stuff and rustoleum primers, and will let the metal corrode if left without a top coat for too long.

Another primer, if you don't want to use epoxy primer, that is waterproof but laquer based is Dupont 100S fill and sand primer.

It is effective method no doubt, just not to fast. Where do you get a good epoxy primer? Auto body supply store? Any ideas on dealing with flash rust for a part I want to just polish up a keep bare. Just dry it fast, & polish it or hit it with a wire wheel? What is a good filler? Some thing that will hold up good. I have heard of metal fillers.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Where do you get a good epoxy primer? Auto body supply store? Any ideas on dealing with flash rust for a part I want to just polish up a keep bare. Just dry it fast, & polish it or hit it with a wire wheel? What is a good filler? Some thing that will hold up good. I have heard of metal fillers.

You guessed it. Ya gotta get the good stuff from autobody supply stores...That includes good fillers. DON'T spray epoxy without a quality respirator...Epoxy is plastic and coating your lungs in plastic or any paint for that matter is very, very bad.

For fillers I preffer a light easy sand filler like featherlite...No particular brand applies here except "NOT BONDO BRAND" The good stuff mixes, spreads and sands so much better.

If there is a chance for the filler to get any moisture to the backside (like on a spot welded seam, use a fiberglass resin product like tigerhair or resin gel for the 1st coat. Plastic fillers are not waterproof and moisture is what causes them to bubble the fiberglass resin IS waterproff and will help to keep moisture at bay.

If you have a steel part, like custom exhaust chambers etc.... that you want to keep in the raw steel finish instead of painting them, coat them with Mop & Glo about once a month, no kidding. My brothers '74 Kawasaki 750 Triple has custom exhaust chambers on it and it's been raw steel for a couple years and still look like new....Smells great when it's running too

NOTE: If you plan on painting it, DON'T cover it with Mop & Glo or you'll never get paint to stick to it right. If you just want to keep it bare until you paint it just plan on sanding it if you don't want to cover it in epoxy right away. Unfortunatly I don't know of any cures for this.

 

[dreadhed]

Have you ever heard of using JB weld for filler? A guy I know that does custom cars & trucks told me about using it. Says it is chemical resistant, water proof & sands easy. Is the Bondo fiberglass any good, or it just as bad as their other stuff?

Thanks for the mop & glow tip. I will have to try that on some stuff. That is what I was wondering about. What would keep it looking nice after a cleaning.

Thanks for the help.

 

[tonkadoctor]

I can see JB weld being chemical resistant and waterproof but no easy to sand but I could be wrong. Quite frankly I don't use JB Weld for anything and I think it would be pretty expensive for a filler unless you were just using it on seams under plastic filler like I do with tigerhair.

I won't use anything "Bondo" brand on bodywork but the fiberglass resin is prolly OK. Fiberglass is just put down thin just to waterproof the seams and ground down with high speed sanders or grinders so the plastic filler can be put on to shape and smooth it out.

I was going to post some pics of my brothers bike I painted (6 coats of PPG Indy candy green over 3 coats of pure gold medium flake base with 5 coats of green gold pearl in the clear....looks like wet green liquid antifreeze) and the exhaust he keeps Mop & Gloed, but can't find them right now.. Gonna shoot him an email for a few pics....Sure he's gonna wanna know when I'm coming down to finish the lettering and a few more coats of clear on top of that.

 

[tonkadoctor]

Here ya go. My little brother just sent me the pics.


Shooting black epoxy primer sealer

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PPG Pure gold base color

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Done except for tank stiping and lettering exhaust has had Mop & Glo on it for a couple years now and still looks new.

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You can see some of the gold green pearl flip flop....These pics don't do this bike justice. the paint is like glass and the reflection is very deep

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[subway]

wow nice work tonkadoctor, might pick your brains later about rapainting some of my stuff

 

[dreadhed]

You did some nice work there Tonka. I like that pipe too. Is that one of those 750 2 strokes? You do a lot of body work? Can you use a paint respirator for spraying the epoxy?

Can some one tell me how to set my notices so I get a email to responses to threads?

 

[tonkadoctor]

wow nice work tonkadoctor,

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might pick your brains later about rapainting some of my stuff

Thanks. Ya can pick my brain but I don't paint for anyone but myself and my brother anymore and I really don't have the proper facilities for it.....yet. BTW that's about $3000 worth of labor and materials in that tri coat paint job and it ain't done yet.

You did some nice work there Tonka. I like that pipe too. Is that one of those 750 2 strokes? You do a lot of body work? Can you use a paint respirator for spraying the epoxy?

Thank you. You guessed right. 1974 Mach IV H2 , lots of engine mods a few body mods and custom made expansion chambers. This thing is scary fast and it's his toy. He also has my Dads old '71 500 H1 Mach III which is all original with about 20,000 miles on it and he has four KV75 2 stroke Minibikes, those things are a blast to ride.

He doesn't mess with anything but 2 stroke Kawasaki

Yes you can spray epoxy with the proper respirator and good ventilation. The respirator I am using in the pics is a 3M disposable I picked up at the autobody supply when I bought the paint that is only good for about 48 hours after the package is opened as long as you keep putting it back in the resealable pack when not using it, IIRC they are about $14. Basicly use one per paint job and toss it.