DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
Are there any stand-alone controllers that can run the E4OD without sensor input?
E4OD
- Thread starter DaytonaBill
- Start date
david85
Full Access Member
Stand alone is out there, but with no sensors at all, how can the transmission know when to shift?
There is no internal governor to detect speed/RPM.
An all manual valve body would be nice, but I don't know if such a thing exists for the E4OD.
The aftermarket controller that I am using requires less info than OEM, but still needs speed, lever position and throttle position signals.
There is no internal governor to detect speed/RPM.An all manual valve body would be nice, but I don't know if such a thing exists for the E4OD.
The aftermarket controller that I am using requires less info than OEM, but still needs speed, lever position and throttle position signals.
DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
I was afraid of that... The lack of sensor input was the thing I figured would sink my quest to ween my truck from the 'occasional' limp mode attacks.
I'm finding metal filings on the end of my speed sensor and cleaning it doesn't work anymore, so I thought I would see if a stand alone controller existed and install it before I burn up the tranny. The idea was to cut off the need for the sensor on my differential, then locate a rear axle assembly and swap it out. I'm just trying to save the tranny while I look for a rear axle assembly.
I know that once I swap it out, everything (tranny) will be normal.
So, it looks like I'll have to go ahead and swap the rear end out, then I'll get a controller to firm up the shifting...
Hmm, I'll start another thread on the whole swap thing...
Thanks David!
I'm finding metal filings on the end of my speed sensor and cleaning it doesn't work anymore, so I thought I would see if a stand alone controller existed and install it before I burn up the tranny. The idea was to cut off the need for the sensor on my differential, then locate a rear axle assembly and swap it out. I'm just trying to save the tranny while I look for a rear axle assembly.
I know that once I swap it out, everything (tranny) will be normal.
So, it looks like I'll have to go ahead and swap the rear end out, then I'll get a controller to firm up the shifting...
Hmm, I'll start another thread on the whole swap thing...
Thanks David!
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
You could call Baumann to see how it hooks into the 92 trans harness. It does do away with some of the "stupid" sensors that aren't needed for a trans to work, like the tach. 
david85
Full Access Member
The Baumann TCS also NEVER (EVER!!!!!!) command limp mode. If something is wrong, its up to you to figure it out. But I found its not hard to notice the odd slide-bump shift if you get the line pressure curve wrong. Small phantom electronic spikes that can throw off the OEM controller will not phase the baumann.
I'm not exactly sure how it would work on a 1992 since your speedo is electronic off the diffy, but I know it can be spliced in. Give Karl at Baumannator controls a call. He is usually very helpful and knows the E4OD.
I'm not exactly sure how it would work on a 1992 since your speedo is electronic off the diffy, but I know it can be spliced in. Give Karl at Baumannator controls a call. He is usually very helpful and knows the E4OD.
DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
Hmm, I think I'll look at Baumann unit again...
But I've decided to go ahead and open my differential and visually inspect and clean up any filings and sludge. Hopefully that will temporarily enable the E4OD to get out of limp mode awhile... That'll give me probably another week to replace the rear axle assembly (I hope).
I wonder how much filings I can get with a bar magnet?
I'll post updates later...
But I've decided to go ahead and open my differential and visually inspect and clean up any filings and sludge. Hopefully that will temporarily enable the E4OD to get out of limp mode awhile... That'll give me probably another week to replace the rear axle assembly (I hope).
I wonder how much filings I can get with a bar magnet?
I'll post updates later...
DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
Well, here we are, two years and six months later...
I did say that I would post updates... ;p
Today, my VSS started throwing the E4OD off again and I picked up a code 29, so I took the VSS out and cleaned it and put it back...
Test drove it and it still throws a limp mode...
Cleaned the emergency sensor and stuck it in and went for a drive...
It lasted just a little longer and then threw a limp mode.
Parked it at home and fours hours later, went to 7/11 slowly, expecting limp mode... I make it to store and no limp mode.
I start to connect the dots... When I got the flashing O/D light, I had just turned left and then came to a complete stop and then backed out into street... All in a fast maneuver... this was around noon today...
When I went to 7/11, I drove slowly and didn't have any problems, but when I left 7/11, I made a sharp left turn and then the limp mode came back...
I was going to buy a new sensor, but I'm beginning to see the possibility of metal shavings accumulating behind the pinon gear shaft or wherever they are coming from and the extra sloshing of the diff fluids washing the pile of metal shavings into circulation...
Back in my last post, I mentioned cleaning out the pumpkin... There were alot of shavings and I did use a magnet to get it all out and that lasted me 2.5 years before 'limp modititis' came back.
So, I'm going to do it again and I'll post the results sometime tomorrow...
I did say that I would post updates... ;p
Today, my VSS started throwing the E4OD off again and I picked up a code 29, so I took the VSS out and cleaned it and put it back...
Test drove it and it still throws a limp mode...
Cleaned the emergency sensor and stuck it in and went for a drive...
It lasted just a little longer and then threw a limp mode.
Parked it at home and fours hours later, went to 7/11 slowly, expecting limp mode... I make it to store and no limp mode.
I start to connect the dots... When I got the flashing O/D light, I had just turned left and then came to a complete stop and then backed out into street... All in a fast maneuver... this was around noon today...
When I went to 7/11, I drove slowly and didn't have any problems, but when I left 7/11, I made a sharp left turn and then the limp mode came back...
I was going to buy a new sensor, but I'm beginning to see the possibility of metal shavings accumulating behind the pinon gear shaft or wherever they are coming from and the extra sloshing of the diff fluids washing the pile of metal shavings into circulation...
Back in my last post, I mentioned cleaning out the pumpkin... There were alot of shavings and I did use a magnet to get it all out and that lasted me 2.5 years before 'limp modititis' came back.
So, I'm going to do it again and I'll post the results sometime tomorrow...
DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
Ok...
Here it is two days later, yesterday was too windy and I don't have a garage, so...
I cleaned out the diffy and ran a bar magnet around and there were some more slivers and the magnet on the end of the fill plug was loaded with it...
Cleaned out the VSS and then took it for a test drive... Nope, 'limp moditis' returned and I checked out both of my VSS's and one was 1820 ohms and the other was 1780... In range, so even though I only pulled a 29 code, I'm going to go ahead and reset my FLPS after I check my harness behind the PSOM and to the tranny...
I did notice that with the VSS that ohmed out at 1780, it took longer for the O/D light to come on... Wonder what that means?
I'll be back tomorrow and we'll see what happens...
Here it is two days later, yesterday was too windy and I don't have a garage, so...
I cleaned out the diffy and ran a bar magnet around and there were some more slivers and the magnet on the end of the fill plug was loaded with it...
Cleaned out the VSS and then took it for a test drive... Nope, 'limp moditis' returned and I checked out both of my VSS's and one was 1820 ohms and the other was 1780... In range, so even though I only pulled a 29 code, I'm going to go ahead and reset my FLPS after I check my harness behind the PSOM and to the tranny...
I did notice that with the VSS that ohmed out at 1780, it took longer for the O/D light to come on... Wonder what that means?
I'll be back tomorrow and we'll see what happens...
DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
Gentlemen, the next time you have E4OD sensor problems that won't go away, no matter what you throw at it, clear the continuous memory and take it out for a test ride...
And viola!
This should be the next thing you do, when you pull codes...
Think of all the time saved, if I'd done this...
I know that I've already posted this exact message in my newer post, I just want to make sure this solution gets spread around a little more, because I never read anything about clearing the memory and just stumbled onto this...
And viola!
This should be the next thing you do, when you pull codes...
Think of all the time saved, if I'd done this...
I know that I've already posted this exact message in my newer post, I just want to make sure this solution gets spread around a little more, because I never read anything about clearing the memory and just stumbled onto this...
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
how do you clear that memory?
DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
On a OBD reader (at least on the Actron brand), when you do a KOEO test, you have to flick the test/hold switch from test to hold, (after the codes are written down) while the codes are flashing and beeping.
It won't clear unless the codes are being transmitted at the same time the switch is flicked back to hold...
FORDF250HDXLT
The life of an Indian is like the wings of the air
you can just remove the positive battery cables on the pass side.
if you don't do that after you fixed a sensor,then she'll stay in limp mode.
you have to drive the truck for a few miles sometimes though to be sure she wont go limp again.you'll know pretty soon.have the code reader handy.
if you don't do that after you fixed a sensor,then she'll stay in limp mode.
you have to drive the truck for a few miles sometimes though to be sure she wont go limp again.you'll know pretty soon.have the code reader handy.
DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
You got that right!!!you can just remove the positive battery cables on the pass side.
if you don't do that after you fixed a sensor,then she'll stay in limp mode.
you have to drive the truck for a few miles sometimes though to be sure she wont go limp again.you'll know pretty soon.have the code reader handy.
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