E4OD issue continued

C_Luft

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So I have been trying to figure out my hard shift issue on my E4od. My fipl is set to .85(which visually looks the same as my original fipl on my injection pump) I replaced the transmission fluid and filter in the spring and had no issues before or after that, I started having issues when I swapped the engine.
The Truck shifts pretty good when cold, but as the transmission warms up the shifts are delayed up to 3 seconds and shifts are harder the longer it takes to shift
when driving and the torque converter seems to be partially engaged when starting from a stop , because i get a vibration and it seems like the engine is lugging like driving a zf5 and starting in second gear.
 

BDCarrillo

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Tach and VSS working properly? Transmission fluid look nice and red, without a burnt smell? Level ok?
 

C_Luft

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Tach works good but looks to be original, vss I replaced a few weeks back with a cheap non motorcraft part partially because it was saturday but appears to flop around at 65 mph or higher ( I drive around 60 because of this).
The fluid level could be a tiny bit low due to my dipstick tube is not completely set into the transmission, (I think the oring is bad).
 

C_Luft

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I ended up adding 1/4 of a quart or about 220 mL, which seemed to help, but after a short drive I saw on the dipstick a 2 bubbles on the top of where the fluid was on the dipstick, did I add too much to cause frothing? It wasn't shifting as hard.
Does anyone have a part number for turbo idi e4od transmission dipstick(my handle broke off) and the oring that is at the bottom of the e4od dipstick tube.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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C_Luft

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My fipl is new, I'm sorry I didn't mention that, I will re adjust to 1.1v and check the wot volts, when I first installed my new fipl at 1.2v it was nearly undrivable, it shifted way too high. I think what I might do is grab my injection pump/fipl from my old engine and check the voltage, since it shifted perfectly then.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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it's not just about 1.2v idle though.you can set it in at least 2 places on the adjustment screw/mount arc there and come up with 1.2V idle but when checking WOT,you need to keep it up around 4V too.if it's not close then it's not going to shift correctly.that is why both voltages are posted in the article,so that you can find the correct axis.it can be tricky but you need to find where each voltages match up or it's wrong.to find it,you must use the front and rear mounting screws.start with using about mid way of the arch.if not good,try tipping the front up in arc,and the rear down.continue trying combo's until you nab both idle/wot voltages.
 

C_Luft

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Ok will do, thanks for the advice, the first picture is from the old engine, the second pic is when I set the the fipl to 1.2v
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