E4od headache

[zmck150]

Hey everyone here we go again with more problems, this time it's my girl friends truck... just had the transmission rebuilt after the original stopped working all together... the truck is a 1993 f350 4x4 crew cab long bed srw 6.9 idi (serp-belt swapped, injection pump turned up a little ) with a e4od.

Now the owner before us sold the truck stating it had a bad transmission... it slipped and would lose the torque converter randomly until one day it was all done and wouldn't move anymore.. so I pulled the transmission myself, realized after ordering everything I was over my head in a automatic rebuild, and brought it to a transmission shop.. where they told me it would be 300 in labor, I agreed and left it expecting to get a torque converter later after researching about what kind would best fit the budget.. well the shop called my girl friend and she oked them putting a dayco (however it's spelt) TC and a Trans go shift kit. They also informed her that there was a bad solenoid. Now the bill is 700, not counting the Trans star rebuild kit 350...

regardless I get the Trans back install it and it shifted great, until it warmed up.. now it slams gears, the torque converter locks in reverse and 1st all the time and randomly in D. I had no over drive what so ever for the ride from my shop to the Trans shop, we also lost 3rd gear for a little bit.. Trans shop in short said not our problem well look at it whenever we get to it so after a week I went and grabbed the truck. I had forgotten the guy who previously owned it had attempted the torque converter lock up switch mod, so I rewired it in and I had overdrive and a locking torque converter only when the switch was engaged. I then git the truck home and removed the wiring and switch and the truck is back to stock. I also took the Trans pan down to see if the filter was sucking air from the top (if it fell down or had the wrong filter) then I reset the throttle position sensor to 1.2 volts, and 1.2 volts neither make a difference.. cleaned all connections to the transmission and cleaned the speed sensor, then replaced the throttle position with a known working one off of my 7.3 idi

The only progress I've made is I now have 1 2 3 and over drive slamming gears... it still stalls in reverse and 1... and some times in D. I don't know much about automatics so please tel me what I an missing.. the only other thing I forgot to mention is that the tcm ( the black box where the shifting linkage goes I assume ) is also new.

Any input is greatly appreciated

 

[direwulf23]

Are you certain they installed a low-steal TC? Are there any codes?

 

[tbrumm]

I would suggest you get a code reader and pull the codes. Is the OD Off light on the shift lever blinking? There are so many variables with the E4OD and even through the trans computer is not a advanced as later models, the stored codes can help diagnose what is going on. You mentioned you pulled the pan - how much material was on the magnet? Any metal debris in the fluid? Since the trans was recently rebuilt, I would be inclined to think that there may be some electrical gremlins at work, so pulling the codes is the place to start.

BTW, you have pretty cool GF if she drives a CC IDI!

 

[david85]

Did you flush out the cooler and install a return line filter?

 

[zmck150]

Are you certain they installed a low-steal TC? Are there any codes?

I'm not sure what you mean by "low steal", I do know it's a stock "stall" converter

 

[direwulf23]

I'm not sure what you mean by "low steal", I do know it's a stock "stall" converter

Stall. Lol
Damn you spell check

 

[zmck150]

I would suggest you get a code reader and pull the codes. Is the OD Off light on the shift lever blinking? There are so many variables with the E4OD and even through the trans computer is not a advanced as later models, the stored codes can help diagnose what is going on. You mentioned you pulled the pan - how much material was on the magnet? Any metal debris in the fluid? Since the trans was recently rebuilt, I would be inclined to think that there may be some electrical gremlins at work, so pulling the codes is the place to start.

BTW, you have pretty cool GF if she drives a CC IDI!

I have not gotten a code reader at the moment, I will be getting that done the next slow day at work. The light does not blink, but when the button is pressed it turns over drive off and turns on the light as it should . Yes there was more metal than I would have liked to see on the magnet

Did you flush out the cooler and install a return line filter?

I did flush and blow the cooler out, I went to install a aux fin cooler but I got a wrong fitting to run it in series so I'm running just the stock cooler for now

 

[icanfixall]

What did you set the tps (thats the trans switch located on the injection pump) voltage for? Factory setting is .96 volts to 1.3 volts on a warmed up engine with the key on but engine off at idle setting throttle shaft position. To check voltage use a digital voltmeter on the center green wire to this switch.

 

[zmck150]

What did you set the tps (thats the trans switch located on the injection pump) voltage for? Factory setting is .96 volts to 1.3 volts on a warmed up engine with the key on but engine off at idle setting throttle shaft position. To check voltage use a digital voltmeter on the center green wire to this switch.

That is the exact procedure I tried but I did not remember how large the range was for the voltage in the idle position. Every where I was looking said 1.1 to 1.2. I wanted to rule it out as a cause for slamming gears

 

[OLDBULL8]

Hey everyone here we go again with more problems, this time it's my girl friends truck... just had the transmission rebuilt after the original stopped working all together... the truck is a 1993 f350 4x4 crew cab long bed srw 6.9 idi (serp-belt swapped, injection pump turned up a little ) with a e4od.
Why does it have a 6.9 in a 93?
Now the owner before us sold the truck stating it had a bad transmission... it slipped and would lose the torque converter randomly until one day it was all done and wouldn't move anymore.
You just don't lose a TC randomly, Did the TC sound like it had nuts rotating in a coffee can? If junk went thru the trans cooler, the cooler is junk, you cannot flush that stuff out. If you drove it with the old cooler installed, more than likely some of that junk got back in the trans.
so I pulled the transmission myself, realized after ordering everything I was over my head in a automatic rebuild, and brought it to a transmission shop.. where they told me it would be 300 in labor, I agreed and left it expecting to get a torque converter later after researching about what kind would best fit the budget.. well the shop called my girl friend and she oked them putting a dayco (however it's spelt) TC and a Trans go shift kit. They also informed her that there was a bad solenoid. Now the bill is 700, not counting the Trans star rebuild kit 350...
With one bad solenoid, the whole solenoid pack has to be replaced, you can't just change one solenoid.

regardless I get the Trans back install it and it shifted great, until it warmed up.. now it slams gears, the torque converter locks in reverse and 1st all the time and randomly in D. I had no over drive what so ever for the ride from my shop to the Trans shop, we also lost 3rd gear for a little bit
I would say the 2-3 shift spool is stuck in the valve body, the trans will stay in lockup if that is the case and will stall in reverse.

.. Trans shop in short said not our problem well look at it whenever we get to it so after a week I went and grabbed the truck. I had forgotten the guy who previously owned it had attempted the torque converter lock up switch mod, so I rewired it in and I had overdrive and a locking torque converter only when the switch was engaged. I then git the truck home and removed the wiring and switch and the truck is back to stock. I also took the Trans pan down to see if the filter was sucking air from the top (if it fell down or had the wrong filter) then I reset the throttle position sensor to 1.2 volts, and 1.2 volts neither make a difference.. cleaned all connections to the transmission and cleaned the speed sensor, then replaced the throttle position with a known working one off of my 7.3 idi

The only progress I've made is I now have 1 2 3 and over drive slamming gears... it still stalls in reverse and 1... and some times in D. I don't know much about automatics so please tel me what I an missing.. the only other thing I forgot to mention is that the tcm ( the black box where the shifting linkage goes I assume ) is also new.

Any input is greatly appreciated

Forget about the code reader. I would say the trans has to be completely tore down and cleaned out., keep driving it like that and it may cost a lot to fix it. When/if you get it fixed, replace the aux cooler and install a filter on the return line, that is a MUST if your still using the radiator cooler. You can get a whole new updated valve body from BTS for $200.
I'm no trans expert but trackspeeder may chime in on this.

 

[zmck150]

Forget about the code reader. I would say the trans has to be completely tore down and cleaned out., keep driving it like that and it may cost a lot to fix it. When/if you get it fixed, replace the aux cooler and install a filter on the return line, that is a MUST if your still using the radiator cooler. You can get a whole new updated valve body from BTS for $200.
I'm no trans expert but trackspeeder may chime in on this.

What could have gone wrong that you say it should be retaken apart and cleaned? And shouldn't the shop I had rebuild the transmission take care of it at this point?

At this point I wish I had put a zf5, but I steered away from that cause the clutch is a pain to push in from my experience. if it were my truck I would have done it

 

[david85]

Sounds to me like the trans shop probably just swapped all the soft parts and slapped it back together.

Based on what you're describing, shrapnel from the blown torque converter got pumped through the trans and never was properly cleaned out during the rebuild. Its possible some was still left in the cooler too. Ford (and other reputable builders) requires the installation of a magnetic inline filter on the return line for warranty purposes. Its also possible the shop tried to replace just the one damaged shift solenoid rather than the entire pack. It can be done, and it would be a quick way to cut corners and save cost rather than get a new assembly. The last solenoid pack I bought came all the way from florida and was defective out of the box so I had to fix it myself by taking a used solenoid off the old pack (that was many years ago and its still running fine).

If you do indeed have a nicked or stuck valve (or valves) in the valve body, it could explain why the transmission started acting up after reaching operating temperature. You could try removing the valve body and inspecting/cleaning all the parts in it, or simply replace it with a reconditioned one. I tried both, and only the latter worked in my case. Trying to re-polish the offending spool valve would only work for a few minutes before the valve would jam again. Please put a return line filter on before running the truck too much. Its a cheap way to prevent further damage.

Another option, is if they (or the PO) fubared the solenoid pack, that could also be causing your problems. Your line pressure will go to max (hard, bangy shifts) if the electronic pressure control (EPC) solenoid loses power no matter what your TPS is set to. Its entirely possible some of the wiring that goes to the solenoid pack is still damaged and is causing your problems.

The self diagnostic capabilities of these transmission computers are quite limited and a code scan may or may not offer any useful clues. At best, it could point you to a failed solenoid or sensor but there's no guarantee of that. A clean scan does not always mean the electronics are working properly.

 

[zmck150]

Sounds to me like the trans shop probably just swapped all the soft parts and slapped it back together.

Based on what you're describing, shrapnel from the blown torque converter got pumped through the trans and never was properly cleaned out during the rebuild. Its possible some was still left in the cooler too. Ford (and other reputable builders) requires the installation of a magnetic inline filter on the return line for warranty purposes. Its also possible the shop tried to replace just the one damaged shift solenoid rather than the entire pack. It can be done, and it would be a quick way to cut corners and save cost rather than get a new assembly. The last solenoid pack I bought came all the way from florida and was defective out of the box so I had to fix it myself by taking a used solenoid off the old pack (that was many years ago and its still running fine).

If you do indeed have a nicked or stuck valve (or valves) in the valve body, it could explain why the transmission started acting up after reaching operating temperature. You could try removing the valve body and inspecting/cleaning all the parts in it, or simply replace it with a reconditioned one. I tried both, and only the latter worked in my case. Trying to re-polish the offending spool valve would only work for a few minutes before the valve would jam again. Please put a return line filter on before running the truck too much. Its a cheap way to prevent further damage.

Another option, is if they (or the PO) fubared the solenoid pack, that could also be causing your problems. Your line pressure will go to max (hard, bangy shifts) if the electronic pressure control (EPC) solenoid loses power no matter what your TPS is set to. Its entirely possible some of the wiring that goes to the solenoid pack is still damaged and is causing your problems.

The self diagnostic capabilities of these transmission computers are quite limited and a code scan may or may not offer any useful clues. At best, it could point you to a failed solenoid or sensor but there's no guarantee of that. A clean scan does not always mean the electronics are working properly.

Well I will definately be installing a filter i was un aware of the importance. I also have to call the shop and get the specific details of what was done valve body wise and solenoid wise.. as far as I know the kit I provided (Trans star) was a gasket and clutch kit, a (dayco ) torque convertrr, a Trans star pump, (probably a single) solenoid like you stated so they could take the cheap way out..

Edit:I forgot the shift kit they offered is also installed

 

[trackspeeder]

The tranny is leaking internally. As it heats up the tranny will lose pressure through leakage. This is why you have converter lock up in reverse. Plus gear slamming.

Now the fun part. You need to find out what they screwed up. I would start by doing a pressure test. Then pull the tranny apart. I would say there are issues with the pump.

The black box at the shift lever is a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) That isn't your problem. Good that its replaced. They can cause some funky stuff when they fail.

 

[zmck150]

The tranny is leaking internally. As it heats up the tranny will lose pressure through leakage. This is why you have converter lock up in reverse. Plus gear slamming.

Now the fun part. You need to find out what they screwed up. I would start by doing a pressure test. Then pull the tranny apart. I would say there are issues with the pump.

The black box at the shift lever is a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) That isn't your problem. Good that its replaced. They can cause some funky stuff when they fail.

So if I pressure test it and the pressure is below spec (I Wil check all data tomorrow) I should bring it back to the shop?

This may be a stupid question but how do I check line pressure without a obd2 port and a scanner?