E350 questions

[Sauer]

Hey all, New to the forum. Tried searching around a little bit didn't find much. I just purchased a 1985 econoline with the 6.9. It ran very well up until it started getting cold. I messed around and found a bad glow plug relay, replaced it and it fired right up. After it got a little colder didn't want to start again. Looked around a little more and found some bad glow plugs. In the process must have bumped one of the return lines and started to leak. I ordered New glow plugs (made sure to get motorcraft) as well as return line kit. Got everything and was going to get started installing. I took the air cleaner off and stopped. Just looking at the space to work in scared me away. I'm by no means a mechanic and don't have a lot of experience. Just hoping to get some advice from anyone who's worked on these if its as bad as it looks. Wondering if its something I want to tear into, or take to a local mechanic. Thanks in advance!

 

[Thewespaul]

That’s something that you can do, it just sucks. If you don’t want to do it take it to a mechanic so he can throw wrenches and spout four letter words.

When our 96 e350 got were it needed injectors we just sold it, just didn’t want to mess with it

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Working on the Vans is tuff but doable just the same. You are able to work from both ends of the engine. Being clean is more important than you think. Anytime you open the fuel system to replace the return lines you want it hospital room clean. I wear harbor freight blue rubber gloves and change them when I see dirt on them. Glad you purchased the motorcraft glow plugs too. Nothing works as well. Best way to replace the return lines is remove one side and make it your model for the new set. Be sure you use an exacto knife to clean off any manufacturing flash from the bottom edge of the plastic cap.Purchase a dental pic kit to remove the old o rings. You hook one.Pull it out and cut with an exacto knife. Someone has a great idea how to make a guide for installing o rings. Personally I just roll on the top one and roll the bottom one over that. Don't try to install the bottom one first. Use some lube on the caps when you press them back on the injector. you will "feel" and probably hear the click when they are seated correctly. Want to add some protection.. then install a used o ring between the hard line nut and the plastic cap. When the hard line nut is tightened down on the o ring it forces the cap to seat properly. Ask questions as you need. there is ALWAYS someone awake on this forum to help.

 

[Macrobb]

Return line O-rings should be Viton material; if you buy a return line set, it should come with them. Otherwise(or if you want spares), Amazon has them for like $5 for 25. Search for "Viton, size code 111"

When installing them, I use high-temp wheel bearing grease. Grease the O-ring really well, and the inside of the cap. This grease works much better than Vasoline or anything else that I have found to prevent future leakage. It also tends to stay in place and keep dust etc. away from the O-rings inside the cap.
And Viton material is impervious to the wheel bearing grease, same as it is Diesel.

 

[Sauer]

Thanks for the responses guys. I appreciate all the advice and tips. My brother had recomended viton orings so I did order a package of 25 when I ordered the return line kit.

 

[icanfixall]

Your on your way to doing this return line correct by using Viton. Please ask questions as needed.

 

[jayro88]

So you are asking about changing the Glow plugs and putting in the return line kit on a van, correct?

On my '88 e250 I have found that the easiest way to get to most of it is from inside the van with the doghouse off. I usually remove the passenger seat to give me some more room. I believe I used a 1/4" ratchet on all the glow plugs along with some 90* bend needle nose to lift the GPs after they were loose. A couple of the GPs are easiest to reach from the front.

As far as the return line kit. Is it the line connections or the caps that are leaking. If it is the line connections you might be able to just replace those. If it is the caps you will need to loosen the injector lines to remove the caps. You can also loosen them on the IP (the other end of the line). Some kind of crows foot wrench could help with the ones towards the bottom of the pump.

Working on the van is too terribly hard, it just takes more time since you have to get creative to get to things at time. Having different length extensions and swivel adapters can help too.

One plus to the van is that you can work from inside the van and stay warm during the winter.

 

[DOE-SST]

Judging from your post, you appear to have some mechanical abilities. These vans are not hard to work on, I maintain several. Maybe not as easy as a truck, but still not hard. Pull the doghouse and passenger seat and you have great access to most of the engine. The van floor is a huge table to hold tools and parts, and the enclosed area allows you to work in comfort when it is raining or snowing outside. I like to add a radio for music as well as snacks and beverages.

I just don’t trust other mechanics to know 25 year old vehicles as well as I do. Probably everyone that has every taken their vehicle to a shop a few times has an expensive horror story to tell, either from mechanic incompetence or ignorance. Get yourself the ford manuals and maintenance is a breeze.

 

[compressionignitionrules]

you can do it yourself, pulling the passenger seat sounds like extra work but your back will thank you for it after!

head gaskets are a ******* in the vans but injector return kits and glow p[lugs area breeze. might want to lay some newspaper down on the floor mats/ carpets . after you pull the passenger seat. a small fuel spill can really get annoying ........................

sounds like you are capable of this job. its almost like regular maintenance on an idi diesel. low sulfur fuels are ******* seals!