6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
For doing what?
DT360: The beginning
- Thread starter BrandonMag
- Start date
(I'm assuming you used the hole for the fuel injector to gain access into the cylinder)
For your threaded rod to thread through to stop the piston when you bar the engine over.
For your threaded rod to thread through to stop the piston when you bar the engine over.
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Got it!
The engine is at TDC.
The ag balancer I got had 50 degrees of advance stamped on it:
Since I wanted to use the marks that were already on the ag balancer, I got the engine to TDC with the bus balancer. I pulled it off and installed the ag balancer and used the 0* on it to reference where on the timing cover the timing pin needed to be relocated. I reused the factory timing pin, cut down about 3/4" and shaved flat on the balancer side. I wasn't 100% sure I was correct in the placement of the 0* mark on the timing cover, but it was confirmed by swamp_ratt via text.
The next step is to get the water pump machined down. I took some quick measurements and it looks like I will only need a little more than 1" taken off the water pump body. The rest of the space gained will be from getting rid of the threaded shaft, nut and most of the bushing. My plan is to eliminate the squeeze sleeve and just use the six bolts to secure a single two-groove pulley to the threaded flat flange. If my measurements were correct, I'll gain a total of about 3".
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The engine is at TDC.
You must be registered for see images attach
The ag balancer I got had 50 degrees of advance stamped on it:
You must be registered for see images attach
Since I wanted to use the marks that were already on the ag balancer, I got the engine to TDC with the bus balancer. I pulled it off and installed the ag balancer and used the 0* on it to reference where on the timing cover the timing pin needed to be relocated. I reused the factory timing pin, cut down about 3/4" and shaved flat on the balancer side. I wasn't 100% sure I was correct in the placement of the 0* mark on the timing cover, but it was confirmed by swamp_ratt via text.
The next step is to get the water pump machined down. I took some quick measurements and it looks like I will only need a little more than 1" taken off the water pump body. The rest of the space gained will be from getting rid of the threaded shaft, nut and most of the bushing. My plan is to eliminate the squeeze sleeve and just use the six bolts to secure a single two-groove pulley to the threaded flat flange. If my measurements were correct, I'll gain a total of about 3".
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6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
Nice. That was easy enough. To get tdc we just tightened down the exhaust valve until it touched the piston. Just for future reference.
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
This is what I did...
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That looks good. Thanks for the pic! 
Here's the F-350 the first day I bought it, in North Plains, Oregon:
And here it is today, four years later:
I used to have a 1980 Ford F150 with a 300 and four-speed. It was a RC step side. I toyed around with the idea of putting an extended cab on the frame because it was such a short wheelbase. I was browsing the classifieds for an extended cab F150 or 250 with a blown engine as a donor truck when I came across an ad that caught my attention. All it said was, "1985 F350 dually 4X4 for sale call Bob ***-***-XXXX." Not knowing what exactly it was, I called. As he told me about it, I remember thinking, "This is too good to be true."
Bob had worked for a New Holland dealer as a baler mechanic. This truck was one of the other mechanic's work rig. He was a young kid who drove this truck hard, and blew up the 460 that was in it. Apparently, this kid was a very good mechanic, and the owner of the dealership put a brand new factory Ford 460 in it. Once the young mechanic got it back, he drove it for about a month and blew up the new 460. At that point, the truck got parked in a corner of the yard. Bob kept his eye on it while it sat. After a couple of years went by, he asked the owner if he would sell it. They agreed on a price, and Bob brought it home. He thought the engine just needed new heads, but once he pulled the heads off it was apparent the block had been severely damaged. Realizing it needed more time and $ than he had, it sat at his place for a couple of years. He fell on hard times: he lost his job, got a few months behind on his mortgage and realized he wasn't ever going to get around to putting this truck back together. So he put an ad up in The Oregonian classifieds and I was the first person who called.
Getting it home was a challenge. I didn't own a trailer at the time, so I had to rent one. It was a clunker that was too short and had funky surge brakes that didn't seem to work very well. It swayed pretty bad if I tried to go even 1 MPH over 50. What was an hour drive at normal speed ended up taking two hours. It was probably the hairiest tow I've made so far.
It's actually pretty straight. There is some rust underneath the cab in the rear corners, but nothing that can't be fixed with some time and elbow grease. Shortly after I bought it, I pulled the passenger side fender, the blown 460 and C6... and then it sat. I still haven't made up my mind 100%, but I'm leaning towards a bricknose frontend. Mostly because they're the least popular of these old Fords. I didn't used to care for the bricknoses much, but after owning my '89 for over five years, they've grown on me.
I still need to get a hood, diesel core support, grille, and some other front-end stuff just to be able to completely assemble the front end. I plan on completely redoing the interior, and may go with a custom dash to house all the gauges I plan on installing. There's also a whole bunch of bits and pieces I'll need to source to get this truck EXACTLY how I want it, but the foundation is there. The best part is: I bought the F-350 as you see it for $600!
Here's some better pics of the Dana 60 front axle conversion that was done:
Here is something I find a little odd (this is the 1985 F-350):
This is my 1989 F-250:
The way the high and low pressure lines are run for the AC from the compressor and condenser are completely different!
I know my '89 is a factory AC truck. In the second pic I traced the low pressure line in red and the high pressure line in blue. In the first pic, you can see both the high and low pressure lines run into the firewall... maybe Ford just changed the air conditioning system?
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And here it is today, four years later:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I used to have a 1980 Ford F150 with a 300 and four-speed. It was a RC step side. I toyed around with the idea of putting an extended cab on the frame because it was such a short wheelbase. I was browsing the classifieds for an extended cab F150 or 250 with a blown engine as a donor truck when I came across an ad that caught my attention. All it said was, "1985 F350 dually 4X4 for sale call Bob ***-***-XXXX." Not knowing what exactly it was, I called. As he told me about it, I remember thinking, "This is too good to be true."
Bob had worked for a New Holland dealer as a baler mechanic. This truck was one of the other mechanic's work rig. He was a young kid who drove this truck hard, and blew up the 460 that was in it. Apparently, this kid was a very good mechanic, and the owner of the dealership put a brand new factory Ford 460 in it. Once the young mechanic got it back, he drove it for about a month and blew up the new 460. At that point, the truck got parked in a corner of the yard. Bob kept his eye on it while it sat. After a couple of years went by, he asked the owner if he would sell it. They agreed on a price, and Bob brought it home. He thought the engine just needed new heads, but once he pulled the heads off it was apparent the block had been severely damaged. Realizing it needed more time and $ than he had, it sat at his place for a couple of years. He fell on hard times: he lost his job, got a few months behind on his mortgage and realized he wasn't ever going to get around to putting this truck back together. So he put an ad up in The Oregonian classifieds and I was the first person who called.
Getting it home was a challenge. I didn't own a trailer at the time, so I had to rent one. It was a clunker that was too short and had funky surge brakes that didn't seem to work very well. It swayed pretty bad if I tried to go even 1 MPH over 50. What was an hour drive at normal speed ended up taking two hours. It was probably the hairiest tow I've made so far.
It's actually pretty straight. There is some rust underneath the cab in the rear corners, but nothing that can't be fixed with some time and elbow grease. Shortly after I bought it, I pulled the passenger side fender, the blown 460 and C6... and then it sat. I still haven't made up my mind 100%, but I'm leaning towards a bricknose frontend. Mostly because they're the least popular of these old Fords. I didn't used to care for the bricknoses much, but after owning my '89 for over five years, they've grown on me.
I still need to get a hood, diesel core support, grille, and some other front-end stuff just to be able to completely assemble the front end. I plan on completely redoing the interior, and may go with a custom dash to house all the gauges I plan on installing. There's also a whole bunch of bits and pieces I'll need to source to get this truck EXACTLY how I want it, but the foundation is there. The best part is: I bought the F-350 as you see it for $600!
Here's some better pics of the Dana 60 front axle conversion that was done:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Here is something I find a little odd (this is the 1985 F-350):
You must be registered for see images attach
This is my 1989 F-250:
You must be registered for see images attach
The way the high and low pressure lines are run for the AC from the compressor and condenser are completely different!
I know my '89 is a factory AC truck. In the second pic I traced the low pressure line in red and the high pressure line in blue. In the first pic, you can see both the high and low pressure lines run into the firewall... maybe Ford just changed the air conditioning system?
I made a little more progress this morning:
It seems like everything on this engine is big:
Sometime in the next week, I'm going to try to find a machine shop that will modify this water pump the way I want without charging me an arm and a leg.
I also pulled the exhaust manifold:
I'm not a big fan of exhaust wrap for three reasons 1: It can retain moisture, causing excessive rust, 2: I don't care for how it looks, and 3: I'm sure ceramic coating retains the heat mo' betta.
So this is where the exhaust wrap went:
And this is what the exhaust manifold looks like now:
A quick workout with a wire wheel reveals this is an International manifold:
Off of what, I'm not sure. I don't think it came on this engine because the bracket thingy that is cast into it to the right of the pedestal interferes with the factory Garrett turbo compressor that came on this engine. (I took a pic of it, but it was with my phone, and I don't know how to upload pics here off of it.)
I plan on taking this exhaust manifold to a shop that specializes in coatings and having it sprayed with a high-temp ceramic coating.
Just for kicks, I took a pic of it next to a factory first-gen Cummins exhaust manifold:
I've read the 6BT manifolds are close in size to the DT manifolds. The DT manifolds bolt holes are (from end to end) only 1/4" longer. With some patience and a drill, you could get the Cummins manifold to work on a DT, I think.
I'm assuming the Cummins manifold is a T3 pedestal and the International manifold is a T4 pedestal. Is this correct?
After removing the exhaust manifold, I took a look at the exhaust valves. This what cylinder 1, 2, 5 and 6 looked like:
Wet valve stems! That's not good. I am not going to sink a few K of $ into this engine to have it start blowing smoke and burning oil (more than it does by nature). It looks like I'm going to need to pull this head off to have some work done to it. I'm thinking fresh valve seals, heavier valve springs and anything else that needs attention. I'd say I'm surprised, but I'm not. For what I paid for this, I fully expected to run into some issues.
You must be registered for see images attach
It seems like everything on this engine is big:
You must be registered for see images attach
Sometime in the next week, I'm going to try to find a machine shop that will modify this water pump the way I want without charging me an arm and a leg.
I also pulled the exhaust manifold:
You must be registered for see images attach
I'm not a big fan of exhaust wrap for three reasons 1: It can retain moisture, causing excessive rust, 2: I don't care for how it looks, and 3: I'm sure ceramic coating retains the heat mo' betta.
So this is where the exhaust wrap went:
You must be registered for see images attach
And this is what the exhaust manifold looks like now:
You must be registered for see images attach
A quick workout with a wire wheel reveals this is an International manifold:
You must be registered for see images attach
Off of what, I'm not sure. I don't think it came on this engine because the bracket thingy that is cast into it to the right of the pedestal interferes with the factory Garrett turbo compressor that came on this engine. (I took a pic of it, but it was with my phone, and I don't know how to upload pics here off of it.)
I plan on taking this exhaust manifold to a shop that specializes in coatings and having it sprayed with a high-temp ceramic coating.
Just for kicks, I took a pic of it next to a factory first-gen Cummins exhaust manifold:
You must be registered for see images attach
I've read the 6BT manifolds are close in size to the DT manifolds. The DT manifolds bolt holes are (from end to end) only 1/4" longer. With some patience and a drill, you could get the Cummins manifold to work on a DT, I think.
I'm assuming the Cummins manifold is a T3 pedestal and the International manifold is a T4 pedestal. Is this correct?
After removing the exhaust manifold, I took a look at the exhaust valves. This what cylinder 1, 2, 5 and 6 looked like:
You must be registered for see images attach
Wet valve stems! That's not good. I am not going to sink a few K of $ into this engine to have it start blowing smoke and burning oil (more than it does by nature). It looks like I'm going to need to pull this head off to have some work done to it. I'm thinking fresh valve seals, heavier valve springs and anything else that needs attention. I'd say I'm surprised, but I'm not. For what I paid for this, I fully expected to run into some issues.
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Just got a text from Ron. The exhaust manifold is what came on it from the factory. He had just flipped it upside down.
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
Yeah it's a factory manifold with a t4 flange. I had mine high heat powder coated. My friend had his Cummins done with the same coating years ago and it still looks new.
And after a little futzing around, here's how it looks now:
I know it's not a huge step, but it's the first time since I've owned it that it looks like it did when it came out of the bus (minus the water pump and air pump). Progress is being made!
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I know it's not a huge step, but it's the first time since I've owned it that it looks like it did when it came out of the bus (minus the water pump and air pump). Progress is being made!
Regarding the AC lines, my 85 was the same and was dealer installed AC. The AC under the dash was a separate unit from the heater and I removed it. My dash didn't have factory AC vents above the glovebox. A panel with vents had been cut in and all that is gone now. It looks like your dash has the vents. I can't tell from the picture. Non AC trucks had manual only heater controls I think as I had no vacuum lines to anything in that area.
Edit: I just looked at my dash (I replaced mine with an AC dash) and the area between the vents is the same color as the rest of the dash. Yours has a black panel, the same as the one I removed.
Edit: I just looked at my dash (I replaced mine with an AC dash) and the area between the vents is the same color as the rest of the dash. Yours has a black panel, the same as the one I removed.
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Much appreciated, Tom.
The way the lines are run in the engine bay just didn't look factory to me.
The way the lines are run in the engine bay just didn't look factory to me.
Not too much to update, but I did get this off eBay:
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Looks like the DT manifold will outflow the Cummins by a good bit. Looking forward to pics of you pulling the head off as well as shortening the water pump. Maybe if shortening the pump doesn't work you could examine the possibility of making an adapter to put a commonly available but more compact pump on there.
