DT 360 swap - the planning stages

[George D.]

IIRC there is a special tool to set the timing but a pocked screwdriver or the right size bolt will work the same. I can't quite remember the proces its been a while. Had to do one by ear because the timing indicator was broken and the customer was too cheap to pay for a new one and man was that thing peppy

 

[bike-maker]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRzQkiOP9rI

This is the method I am going by.

Video is of a DT466, but a 360 is the exact same process.

 

[George D.]

Yeah theres two difrent styles the other one you line up the marks on the crank losen the gear and turn the nut untill the timing pin gose threw the gear and a litle flap with a hole in it behind the gear.

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

how hard would it be to make an adapter out of plate? Just find the correct hole alignements, use studs and countersinks, and go to town? I guess the hardest would be getting the idi flywheel and clutch to match the dt motor?

 

[bike-maker]

I've seen guys make their own plates on Cummins swaps.
My current plan is to get a DT flywheel, and just machine it down to the same size as a Cummins flywheel, then drill it so a Cummins pressure plate bolts on to it. On a Cummins swap, the whole clutch out of the Cummins is used - just requires a custom pilot bearing.The Cummins clutch is proven to fit in the ZF5 bellhousing, and there's more options for clutces if I use Cummins parts.
I can use my SAE2 adapter to drill the bolt pattern in the adapter plate for the block, then I need a spare ZF5 to use as a template for drilling the ZF5 bolt pattern into the adapter. After all of that, I'll hang a dial indicator off of the crank flange, bolt the whole thing together, get the crank centered on the input shaft of the transmission, and drill and install the dowels for the tranny.
Then I just have to make the clutch fit and work, and find somewhere to put the starter; it has to go on the driver's side of the engine.

 

[bike-maker]

Some of the other aspects of a DT360 swap:
The DT has a gear driven power steering pump mounted on the pass side of the engine.I'll use this for my power steering/hydroboost which will take a custom line from the power steering pump to the hydro boost booster, or maybe just an extension line that runs from the standard pressure line I have now over to the JIC fitting on the PSP. There is only one return port on the PSP, but it's about 1/2", so I should be able to runn both returns to it with no issues. I'll have to run an auxiliary reservoir for the power steering as the pump on the DT is without one.

I can make my existing throttle cable work

I'll have to add an extra pull cable for the fuel shut off - no electrical required on the DT.

I'll bolt a 3g alternator using the stock mounts I already have.

I'll have to fab mounts for the IDI AC compressor.

I'll try to mount a 53 tooth gear on the harmonic damper and fab a bracket to use the IDI tach sensor.

I'll have to do an electric fan conversion - the DT's water pump is way to high on the engine for a mechanical fan to work.

I want to mount a PSD intercooler in front of my current radiator.

The fuel filter on the DT mounts to the block down low, and will probably be in the way of the engine cross member, so it will need relocated.

The pump on the DT has a plunger style fuel pump on it (just like a Cummins) with the integrated manual priming pump on it.

That's all I can think of for now......but I'm sure there's more.

 

[hesutton]

Looks like you're making progress. I can't wait to see the DT sitting under the hood of your truck.

Heath

 

[bike-maker]

Still not going to happen very soon, but I am working on it.

A few other things I forgot to add; I'm going to run a electric vacuum pump off of a newer Superduty and ditch the belt driven vacuum pump, one less thing to mount on the DT.

I'm planning on a 2" body lift before I even start the swap. The tranny is going to get pushed back 4" or more, this will give me more room to work with in the trans tunnel area. And the DT is tall enough, the body lift will be really helpful in keeping everything fitting under the stock hood.....Even though I'd like to do a cowl induction style hood eventually.

The biggest hurdle will be the motor mounts. I'll probably have to make an entirely new crossmember for the front engine mount; not a big deal except that it will be right in line with the steering box. So I'll probably have to go up and over it. I'm also guessing that I'll need to do a little carving on the big stock engine crossmember. If I have to cut very much off of it, I won't feel safe running the TTB front suspension and will have to upgrade to a Dana 60 - something I want to do eventually anyway, but would be $$ that I will need for all the unexpected costs of a engine swap like this...

 

[George D.]

For the resivor get one off an IH truck fron a junk yard they are made with filters in then also don't run the returns to the pump run them to the resivor thats how they come from the factory and it will alow the fuid to cool befor it goes back to the pump and make the pump last longer

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

hmm I like this so far. I have found a few in the local u-pull it for pretty cheap. Are you sure the zf can handle a mild dt360?

 

[bike-maker]

I think the ZF will hold up fine. There's lots of them behind PSD's making more power than I plan on having.

 

[Brimmstone]

Just a thought but instead of using a zf to mock up with why not use a t-19 bell-housing to get your center lines and dowel pin locations. Same bolt pattern but just a slightly smaller inner area. With the Zf you would have to cut one apart to use it. Center index of a t-19 should be the same center index of a zf. Might just be the pain meds talking but thought I would ask.

 

[bike-maker]

Damn fine idea.
I was going to have to cut a chunk out of the ZF5 bellhousing anyway to clear the starter - it has to mount on the opposite side of the engine as a IDI - but I'd still get a workout with a mirror trying to spot the face of the dial indicator as it spun around.
A T-19 bellhousing would greatly simplify this whole process.

 

[George D.]

The ZF will hold up fine.

 

[pennsylvaniabo]

Some of the other aspects of a DT360 swap:
The DT has a gear driven power steering pump mounted on the pass side of the engine.I'll use this for my power steering/hydroboost which will take a custom line from the power steering pump to the hydro boost booster, or maybe just an extension line that runs from the standard pressure line I have now over to the JIC fitting on the PSP. There is only one return port on the PSP, but it's about 1/2", so I should be able to runn both returns to it with no issues. I'll have to run an auxiliary reservoir for the power steering as the pump on the DT is without one.

I can make my existing throttle cable work

I'll have to add an extra pull cable for the fuel shut off - no electrical required on the DT.

I'll bolt a 3g alternator using the stock mounts I already have.

I'll have to fab mounts for the IDI AC compressor.

I'll try to mount a 53 tooth gear on the harmonic damper and fab a bracket to use the IDI tach sensor.

I'll have to do an electric fan conversion - the DT's water pump is way to high on the engine for a mechanical fan to work.

I want to mount a PSD intercooler in front of my current radiator.

The fuel filter on the DT mounts to the block down low, and will probably be in the way of the engine cross member, so it will need relocated.

The pump on the DT has a plunger style fuel pump on it (just like a Cummins) with the integrated manual priming pump on it.

That's all I can think of for now......but I'm sure there's more.

Is there a place that makes a 53 tooth plates?