diesel run away tonight while going down the road

[warhog]

The shop has always treated me well in the past, so I continued to give them my work, and the benefit of the doubt. My problem is, I was never the pushy customer. I'd wait patiently til they got a free bay in between scheduled repairs, etc. I think they took advantage of that now and half assed it. It starts fine in the garage, so i've been parking it in there but at work, it gives me a rough time, and i usually let it warm up a good 20-30 min just to be sure. Once the holidays are over, i'm bringing it in. It ****** me off the block heater doesn't work either, which, isn't there fault i bought it myself and they just installed it...but now i gotta drain all the coolant out to replace it? sigh. I do have to say, when it's running, it runs great. I just took it on a six hour drive to check out a new house over the weekend and it did great. Made it down and up some so called "roads" better than I thought it would too.

I did order it six new sneaks for xmas . Pretty excited about that. Should be here by the end of the week, and no that shop won't be installing them lol.

 

[79jasper]

Did you get a chance to look where that fuel is leaking from?

 

[warhog]

Looked as though it was leaking from the fuel lines connecting to the IP. I dabbed it up and a few days later it was wet all underneath there and felt like fuel. I also got a minor oil leak from the dip stick, and a minor coolant leak from a heater hose (just seepage, and some residue on my belt). Alternator **** the bed yesterday going down the highway, so what better time to drop the rig off to be looked at, ha. My new tires got delivered today, so once I get the truck back, i'll get them mounted and be one happy camper!

Another odd thing, when merging on the highway, or even passing someone on a two lane road with some foot in the pedal, it would smoke like a chimney out the exhaust. I would be more understanding if I was dragging a load, but this was empty, and not up any inclines. I know all the "cool kids" like that sort of thing, but I don't.

 

[79jasper]

Did you replace the fuel line olives?

 

[warhog]

Are you asking if i replaced them now, to remedy the issue, or if i replaced them ever? No to either of the questions though lol. Engine was a "running complete drop in" so anything related should be new or reman no?...i'll let the shop deal with it. I just like to have some basic ideas before giving it to them so i don't get ****** around.

 

[warhog]

ALSO. Earlier in this thread, someone posted some useful information about what could cause the runaway..talking about the different throttle springs and how nothing could over come them except the cruise control...I've been trying to see something however. I get impatient to keep staring at the pedal, but it sounds/seems like the high idle solenoid holds the pedal down when warming the engine up. Everytime i try to watch, i'd hear what sounds like the pedal release when the high idle shut off. Nothing important, but just got me thinking about the different things that could stick or become faulty in terms of the throttle running away. shrug

 

[79jasper]

Well when dealing with bigger shops and company's, "should've been done" usually means hasn't been done. And like I said before, I bet the pump was turned up before you got it. Could be a turbo cal pump.

 

[79jasper]

ALSO. Earlier in this thread, someone posted some useful information about what could cause the runaway..talking about the different throttle springs and how nothing could over come them except the cruise control...I've been trying to see something however. I get impatient to keep staring at the pedal, but it sounds/seems like the high idle solenoid holds the pedal down when warming the engine up. Everytime i try to watch, i'd hear what sounds like the pedal release when the high idle shut off. Nothing important, but just got me thinking about the different things that could stick or become faulty in terms of the throttle running away. shrug

Are you asking if the high-idle can cause it to runaway?? If so, the answer is no. It can only extend so far and that's it. None of the other things you mentioned could make it runaway either. Could definitely cause it to stick or get stuck. But nothing over redline, and you would still be able to kill it with the key. And yes, it holds down the pedal like maybe a quarter inch or so.

 

[warhog]

nah wasn't thinking it would cause the run away. But just thinking about how it worked since someone here was explaining nothing but the driver and cruise contol can overcome the springs to pull the pedal down....i just get bored sitting in the truck waiting for it to warm up and get to thinking about things lol

 

[79jasper]

nah wasn't thinking it would cause the run away. But just thinking about how it worked since someone here was explaining nothing but the driver and cruise contol can overcome the springs to pull the pedal down....i just get bored sitting in the truck waiting for it to warm up and get to thinking about things lol

Ah I see. It usually can't overcome the spring pressure. Maybe if the solenoid was new and the springs were weak. That's why you have to push the peddle down to set it. At least all of them I've seen were like that.

 

[George D.]

Thats franklin for you when the way they rebuild engines is so top secret they don't even know what they are doing. I think our record is 4 franklins befor we got one that would run. Hopefully they get your hard start figured out it sounds like air intrusion but then parking it in the garage shouldn't help it start.

 

[warhog]

Thats franklin for you

Who is franklin?

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[f-two-fiddy]

If you've got fuel leaking, then you've got air intrusion. When the fuel pressure drops, the air will come into where ever the fuel was leaking from. On the 6.9 there is an olive at the fuel supply line/return line junction. I'd imagine that when the engine swap was done, the fuel supply line was tampered with enough to allow the olive to leak.

 

[92F350CC]

I'd get the timing check on it. Hard starting, smoke and bad fuel mileage sound like retarded timing to me. If the timing was set properly and it now reads way low, it could be the advance piston is sticking in the IP, could be the fuel pressure regulator not working in the IP either. You could try a liter/quart of Dextron ATF in full fuel tank. But you shouldn't have to do that. That is supposed to be a new IP right?

Retarded timing...perhaps retarded installer too.

 

[warhog]

Yes a reman IP, along with anything else engine wise minus the alternator an stuff. The thing about the timing that i'm not sure on though...When it's fairly warm out (40 degrees plus) even if it's been sitting, i turn the key and it cranks for MAYBE a full second and it's running. I mean, quicker than any car i've driven. You might as well push a button it's that fast.