Cooling System Questions

[03wr250f]

heres a link to my other one... but its not urgent anymore so I moved over to the main page.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?74006-Coolant-Temperature&p=866626#post866626

my last post on that thread.
I would agree with you there. And She did run perfectly fine all the way to my girlfriends house. It fluctrauted between the empty point where it says C and the start of the gauge and then it would work its way back up to being glued at N. I didn't see any problem with that since it ran fine and no leaks. At my girlfirends house it sat for almost 2 hours then I went to fire it up. It was about 60* out. I let it warm up and then turned the heater on while it was still idling. I got cold air. and my truck has no refrigerant in it to have ac.. the whole way home it stayed in bewtween where it has a C and the start of the gauge almost dead set in the middle(it did fluctuate a small amount but I don't know if that means anything at all). When I got home I put my hand on the radiator hoses top and bottom were both as they should be pretty warm. but one of the hoses to the heater core was hot and one was cold...did I lose my heater core
I don't have exhaust gases flowing out of the radiator but right after I start it up with the radiator cap off the fluid level starts rising and in about 60 seconds I have to put the cap on or it will start overflowing.
Did I toast a headgasket? I sure hope not but if I did I need to know so I can get on fixing it. or is that the way it should be. it never did that before but I also had that little check ball valve clogged with formagasket? Sorry for all the questions. A lot of things I have never seen before have been happening and I don't like it when my truck is not correct. Thanks for all the help guys
Im going to bypass my coolant filter on the way home and see if that changes anything as far as the heater core. if not any ideas. Could my waterpump be bad

 

[Wvdirtroad]

I know I can run my truck without it overflowing and the cap off.

 

[crewd]

When I was replacing and flushing my radiator. Yes it will overflow without the cap once the engine is warm ie the thermostat is open. My understanding is the coolant expands as it heats up, this also causes pressure to go up. With the cap on, the coolant increases up to 13 lbs, when this is exceeded then the coolant pushes out into the overflow tank. That's why there is a cold fill line and hot fill line on the overflow tank, to leave room for expansion. When the engine is off and cools down, the volume decreases and draws a vacuum to pull coolant back into the radiator.


Both lines to heater core should be hot. Coolant should flow all the time in the heater core. Maybe clogged.

 

[riotwarrior]

So read this and the other thread and not clear on the problem


Has the CHECK ENGINE light come on?

Haz it boiled over and puked out rad overflow onto ground?

Do you even know what temp you are running have uou installed the aftermarket guage?

Do uou knkw if the clutch fa is operating correctly?

Do uou still ha e fan shroud installed?

What is it uou need to figure out?

 

[03wr250f]

no the light has not come on.
no it has not boiled over
haven't gotten the aftermarket gauge yet
pretty sure the fan works properly It did before I installed new parts. didn't hear it kick in but it has not in my opionion needed to.
yes the shroud is in correctly.
I have two questions that I am wondering about until I can get the gauge in.
1 why would my coolant filter clog up so fast.
and is there a way to see if I have an air bubble in the system or a good way to get rid of one?
I will post more questions once I have the gauge in and monitoring the temp more accurately.