IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
So is this where your coolant leak is at?Unfortunately we discovered a head gasket leak at the right rear corner of the head. Sigh. It's always something.
So is this where your coolant leak is at?Unfortunately we discovered a head gasket leak at the right rear corner of the head. Sigh. It's always something.
Yup. Drivers side all the way at the right rear corner. Finally found it with the right lightSo is this where your coolant leak is at?
Farmer Rock already said that he'd buy it in the "so what did you do with your truck today?" thread.Or sell her with a leaky head gasket and take the hit.
That's what my pop who maintains diesels on a farm said to try. I'm dubious, won't the bolts have stretched too much to hold? I mean I'm still gonna do it just curiousPull the valve covers off and retorque the heads
Dude that's an amazing write up thanks! That's exactly what my bolts look like, dry exhaust side and oily elsewhere. I'm used to working on Chevys and Volvo with torque to yield. Thanks again.I did this a couple years ago, had very small leaks on both rear heads. You'll be amazed how loose some of those bolts will be.
These head bolts are not angle-torque(or stretch-to-yield, aka stretch bolts) like pretty much every head bolt used in modern engines. Because of this it was standard practice to re-torque them after some amount of miles, I think about 30k but could have been 50k.
You'll need a 1/2" tripple-square socket, also called a 12-point but they are apparently different enough to matter.
Since you shouldn't use a torque wrench for loosening bolts, I highly recommend getting 2 of the sockets. One for the breaker bar and one for the torque wrench. I about drove myself crazy swapping that stupid socket back and forth. This added a lot of wasted time to the job.
Back off ONE bolt at least 90* first, then torque it to the spec. We break it loose first to free up the threads for torquing. I would use the OEM first pass bolt pattern since we know some of your bolts are quite loose. Check out @genscripter website for torque specs and pattern.
https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/turbo/7-3-idi-cylinder-head-head-gasket-and-arp-stud-installation/
I found on my engine the bolts that were closest to the exhaust were dry and crusty and all the other bolts were oily. This drastically changes the clamping force on the head because of the friction in the threads. I should have cleaned the crusty stuff off and chased the threads and added some 30 weight oil to the threads but I didn't, as I was ignorant of that stuff at the time.
Happy wrenching!
I did this a couple years ago, had very small leaks on both rear heads. You'll be amazed how loose some of those bolts will be.
These head bolts are not angle-torque(or stretch-to-yield, aka stretch bolts) like pretty much every head bolt used in modern engines. Because of this it was standard practice to re-torque them after some amount of miles, I think about 30k but could have been 50k.
You'll need a 1/2" tripple-square socket, also called a 12-point but they are apparently different enough to matter.
Since you shouldn't use a torque wrench for loosening bolts, I highly recommend getting 2 of the sockets. One for the breaker bar and one for the torque wrench. I about drove myself crazy swapping that stupid socket back and forth. This added a lot of wasted time to the job.
Back off ONE bolt at least 90* first, then torque it to the spec. We break it loose first to free up the threads for torquing. I would use the OEM first pass bolt pattern since we know some of your bolts are quite loose. Check out @genscripter website for torque specs and pattern.
https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/turbo/7-3-idi-cylinder-head-head-gasket-and-arp-stud-installation/
I found on my engine the bolts that were closest to the exhaust were dry and crusty and all the other bolts were oily. This drastically changes the clamping force on the head because of the friction in the threads. I should have cleaned the crusty stuff off and chased the threads and added some 30 weight oil to the threads but I didn't, as I was ignorant of that stuff at the time.
Happy wrenching!