Coolant Expansion Tank

IDIoit

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if you still need a recovery tank and washer tank, i have a pristine set, pm me.
 

IDIoit

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separate like the 87-91
i think i still have the combined set for a 89 460 truck too
 

Fixnstuff

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The dealers I deal with. Moss in Sanbernardino and Sunland in Victorville wont even talk if you dont have a vin. Both told me 10yrs or newer only.

I was prepared to contact the management of those dealerships and the owners, if necessary, with some embarrassing legal pressure (which I am very capable of doing because I am the equivalent of a paralegal and spent more than a couple of years in law libraries-(Constitutional Law, Civil Law (law suits) and Criminal Law. I hate law by the way, more specifically the legal system we have but aside from helping other people with legal problems and filing a couple of cases myself, I have written some very effective letters applying some legal pressure that made the recipients immediately change their policies, refund money or whatever. They don't want to risk the consequences.

Ford Dealerships are Franchises, People apply to become a franchise owners (usually people who already have car lots) If applications are accepted the owners have to go through extensive training by Ford Motor Company
Ford Motor Company has substantial control and influence over dealerships and finance nearly all of them, pay for the extensive training of the franchises as well as deliver billions of dollars of cars to them every year essentially on LOAN. Ford would not approve of what you have claimed here so the first step I was preparing to do this morning was to contact these dealerships (Before contacting Ford Motor company) to apply some pressure about their performance as an approved Ford Franchise. They would be able to see whats coming (me contacting Ford Motor Company) and they might consider changing their policies.

I hate injustice of every kind- most often this is violations of a persons legal rights which occurs in nearly every community in this Country on a daily basis- but I saw injustice in what you are claiming too so this morning I was prepared to do what I described above based on what you wrote. So I began to look into it.

To help clear this up:

1) Moss in San Bernardino is not a Ford dealership (that makes all the difference). They do not have a Ford Motor Company trained parts department, Ford Motor Company sales and parts software (which is a Ford Motor Company Network for Ford Dealerships only). Moss probably accesses information about Ford parts from the local Ford Dealership website. I can do that myself online at any Ford Dealership and I've done so about 10 times this year local and in other states, while searching for a VRV. Sometimes I used the make and model of my truck but I foud that if I used a part number or VIN (depending upon what the website requested) it was faster and the part popped up on the screen and for vehicles 20 years old.

As I mentioned, walking into the parts department in person they had no problem at all finding every part down to the screws on my 1987. The last time that part (VRV) was used in a Ford diesel truck was 1997 and since 1988 it has been in diesel trucks that were specially ordered with a C6 transmission which was phased out beginning 1988 but still available by special order. 1997 is 18 years ago. That is more than 10 years ago Chris. The Moss brothers dealership was probably just checking the local Ford Dealership website in San Bernardino and if they don't have a VIN or part number they couldn't get past 10 years on that website. For your information the Ford dealership in San Bernardino is: Fairview Ford Sales at 292 North G Street.

That is a BIG strike one against you, Chris for posting deceptive and misleading information.

2) Sunland Ford in Victorville IS a Ford Dealership. Will I contact them based on what you wrote? No. I've already wasted a couple hours of my time this morning based on what you wrote which was misleading.

So what is the deal with you not having a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number)

For your information the VIN number for your truck is on the Title. You might want to write that down if you want parts information from dealerships and large parts suppliers. AT LEAST you can get part numbers from the dealerships which can then be used as a cross reference for parts suppliers who have aftermarket parts as well as OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts. Incidentally, it is my understanding that after an automotive manufacturer "obsoletes" a part (usually 20 years after last production year - I think is the case with Ford)

From what I understand, the dealership will usually clear their inventory of those 'obsolete' parts and leave the parts locating and supply to other sources (aftermarket). For parts from models newer than 20 years they may not have any parts left at any dealership so they'll be on back-order from their suppliers. Whether or not those suppliers choose to make more parts for Ford is another matter, maybe they will, maybe they wont. Depends on if they have to set up tooling and if there is enough demand to justify that.

The big parts warehouses buy up all of these 'obsoleted' parts and sell them as original OEM parts (which they are) I knew a family that was selling original NEW OEM parts for Ford models from the 1920s through 1940's. They had an impressive collection of old Fords too, including a couple of 'Woodies' from the 1930's.

If you don't have a Title for the truck the VIN number is on a metal plate on the dashboard next to the windshield on the drivers side near the corner. I think it's also in one or two other locations, maybe on the door frame plate. If the VIN numbers have been removed from your truck then I don't know what to tell you.

If you walk in to a dealership parts counter you may have a very different experience - as I mentioned they CAN and DO look up parts for older vehicles and I've done it many times without the VIN number. Having the VIN number makes it very quick and easy for them to accurately find what you are looking for. Over the phone they may be too busy to look it up without a VIN number OR a PART number. If you are at the parts counter in person they are very unlikely to turn you away. Ford Motor Company would not appreciate that behavior and they are the boss at the top.

Sorry this post was so long
 
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Greg5OH

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Hi I need the passenger wiper blade for my 86 f250 please, 19".
..
Yeah buddy im gunna need the vin off that, cant do nothing for ya without it pal.

The dealers I deal with. Moss in Sanbernardino and Sunland in Victorville wont even talk if you dont have a vin. Both told me 10yrs or newer only.
 

chris142

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Why am i misleading when i posted exactly what i was told by both dealers. Moss has a flyer thats on our wall and they claim to be able to get ford parts.i have never been there so i dont know what they all sell.

I started both my calls with make model and year and was told by both dealers that i needed the vin which i supplied then and there.both dealers said its too old to look up parts for
 

Fixnstuff

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...

ETA...

there are a few tricks to my technique.

I. I use scrap tanks from the same model and year vehicle as mine, to help ensure the materials are the same.
2. I believe the tanks are HDPE, which requires heating up the cracks to the melting point to make them weldable. You cannot just drip liquefied material into a crack that hasn't been torch-heated. One solvent available today for cementing HDPE also requires preheating.
3. I don't allow the torch flame to char the plastic very much. I just keep the flame far enough away so the superheated air coming off the flame melts the plastic.
4. I also build up weak areas of a tank, like bolt holes using this method.

I've tried the harbor fright tool, but found it much slower to use than a propane torch. In a pinch, even a Bic lighter will work.

Thank you very much for the above edit to your original post! Very helpful! See my comments on your list further below. #4 reminds me that I have a few broken plastic ears or tabs (where bolts go through) like on the Fan shroud, maybe Black ABS, or Polypropylene, but whatever I'll figure that out and since it is a stress point I'll probably plastic weld it- more incentive to do so after reading your posts. I'll be restoring this truck so it will be nice to have such little things repaired and not have to spend a lot of money on new plastic parts when I could make better use of my very limited money on more important parts.

I used 2 part epoxy to repair a broken black plastic (lower) grill mount, drivers side before I replaced the grill after installing a new transmission cooler - I wanted it fixed THEN, not later And I used Plastic JB Weld. I prepared the surfaces of the break very well so I think it is a good repair.

As for your list, it's good and I have a few comments:

#1) I don't think you need to be concerned about same model and year. I am fairly certain that HDPE is the most widely used plastic in these applications due to its superior chemical resistance to solvents, oils, fuel etc. and also it's strength and low cost. I've looked at I'm sure over 500 images of these tanks (image search: google or other search engines) and whenever the material is mentioned on the respective web pages its HDPE. Looked at tank manufacturers websites too (US Plastics for example) - same thing! Most sites selling replacements are not going to tell you what plastic it's made from because they (don't care?) or they don't want you to fix yours, they want you to buy a new one.

#2) As mentioned, high density polyethylene is resistant to chemicals, solvents etc. because of it's molecular structure and that is why chemical glues and adhesives do not bond well with it (if at all). Heating the HDPE alters that molecular structure enough to allow fusion (plastic welding) and as you pointed out a solvent repair with a patch kit is possible if the HDPE is adequately heated changing the molecular structure enough that a solvent weld patch will bond.

#3) That's a good technique! Those mini Butane torches should be ideal for small crack repairs, bigger torch for bigger repairs and larger patches over the repairs. I'm definitely going to do this using the plumbing torch (maybe buy a mini-butane torch). Remember to clean the repair surface well and it is better to scrape, file or sand the old oxidized surface layer off to get to clean plastic for a better bond. Technically speaking, 'melting' means turning it into a liquid state so to be clear, you just want it to be soft and pliable- it will fuse in that state when pressed together and also the advantage is that the shiny surface areas while in that soft pliable state are actually melted so the fusion should be quite good. IF you can get something behind the crack or defect to support it you can get the area a little bit hotter (not too much) and get more fusion and also you can use a flat tool like a clean putty knife to press on it and smooth it out. Practice a little bit with some HDPE plastic which is probably in your trash can or recycle bin right now.


Let me look at such items I have here in reach: (Below the triangular recycle code on the bottom it will tell you what plastic is used with an abbreviation): Peak Fleet Charge, SILVER color HDPE. (get fancy with colors!) Prestone Brake Fluid YELLOW HDPE (all of the Prestone plastic containers like for anti-freeze are surely HDPE if you like Yellow). Maxwell House Coffee container BLUE HDPE. Folgers Coffee container RED HDPE (get fancy and make flame designs by mixing in some Prestone yellow with Folgers Red but I have brighter red containers than Folgers Coffee. Add some flavor to the flames design with French's Yellow Mustard container it's YELLOW HDPE, Big Jug of Xtra brand Liquid Laundry Detergent, NICE GREEN HDPE (other jug is blue - any liquid laundry detergent jug will do they are probably all HDPE).

I found lots of colorful plastic containers here made from HDPE. 1 gallon water jugs HDPE but it's vry thin- probably milk jugs- I don't drink milk.

I could make a flower garden with all of these colorful plastics!

Clear plastic food containers? Looks like a modified polyethylene but I'm too tired to look up the abbreviation.

What about Resers brand potato salad and macaroni salad containers? Nope! Those are 'PP' Polypropylene for heat welding repairs on polypropylene parts. (not sure yet what parts are polypropylene) I found more polypropylene containers too. Prescription pill bottles from the pharmacy. Those are PP (Polypropylene) and very tough plastic. Yes it can be heat welded, I looked it up but his topic isn't about welding polypropylene and I'm sure there is more to learn about that before giving any advice.

The tank is in my bath tub waiting to be cleaned. I have everything here inside to do the repairs. I think I will be skilled at this repair because of my background (which includes welding fiber mesh reinforced plastic sheet materials with very expensive high temperature heat guns (Leister Triac ST from Switzerland is the hand held but I also used an automated Leisters)

The key here is recognizing the right temperature range (by eye) to get a very good bond which would only require a little bit of practice with some HDPE plastic. Thicker HDPE materials for filler and patching are probably better than thinner ones like water jugs- experiment before the repair.

!!! DON'T BE SCARED !!! :eek: You probably can't mess it up beyond repair of your failed repair unless you mess it up really really bad and have to take it to intensive care at the plastics hospital where plastic surgeons are on call for emergencies.

Sorry this was so long.

Take care and I hope you get a good repair - or find a good tank or alternate tank .
 

Fixnstuff

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Why am i misleading when i posted exactly what i was told by both dealers. Moss has a flyer thats on our wall and they claim to be able to get ford parts.i have never been there so i dont know what they all sell.

I started both my calls with make model and year and was told by both dealers that i needed the vin which i supplied then and there.both dealers said its too old to look up parts for

Maybe through no real fault of your own, you are not communicating well in what you wrote, Chris. In which case I would not fault you for that. And perhaps also with the dealerships.

I walked in to the parts counter about 7 months ago and asked about a fuel line in my 1987 truck, no VIN number no part number, just 'year', 'model' and '6.9L diesel. Within 15 seconds he had the whole image on the screen, everything relating to fuel lines in the engine compartment metal lines return lines o-rings, feed lines, fuel heater, I/P, filter head - the whole works AND he helped me identify EXACTLY what part I wanted to know about. The metal fuel lines were not in stock, or not available he told me that, I don't know about any of the rest because I had to go back and check my truck again to compare with the diagram = Which he printed out for me and it is STILL on the floorboard of my Dodge Caravan.

Would you like me to go out and get it and scan it to post here for you? That would be cool to see what it looks like after being on my floorboard for 7 months. I see it every time I drive the vehicle, I keep it for Sentimental Value.

So that's the story
 

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