Clutch/lucky mod questions

[TWeatherford]

I'm preparing to do the lucky mod on my dual mass, and swap in a kevlar clutch that RLDSL hooked me up with (thanks). I have never dropped a transmission before, nor changed a clutch, so I'm kind of behind the learning curve. Have a few questions, would love it if you all could give any helpful hints or tips you have.

Here is what I think I need to do:
> disconnect driveshafts on both sides of the transfer case. Anything special on how to take em apart?
> remove transfer case.
> unbolt transmission from crossmember, put jack under it, and remove the crossmember. unbolt it from the motor and pull it all apart. I'll get a transmission jack and have some heavy straps to strap the trans down well.
> I guess I will be able to figure out how the clutch and flywheel come apart?
> I'll have to drain the oil before I remove the flyhweel, right?
> remove the flyhweel and do the lucky mod. should I plan on having it resurfaced and balance checked?
> redo seal on adapter to keep oil, diesel etc, from dripping on my new clutch.
> bolt all the new stuff in. new bolts from Ford for the flywheel, or can I use something else. RLDSL suggested I might need an adjustable clutch rod to compensate for the new stuff. my slave cylinder has been creaking, thinking of replacing it too.

I'm sure its easier said than done. Hopefully it will go well. I have about 3 days to do it in.

 

[hesutton]

> disconnect driveshafts on both sides of the transfer case. Anything special on how to take em apart?

Just remove the U-bolts. Watch the caps on the U-joints....don't wanna loose one and the needle bearing that go along with it. Do this on flat ground and scotch the tires in both directions.

> remove transfer case.

After you unbolt the shifter and 4x4 light switch. I dont' think your truck has the speedo cable on the T-case, if so, you need to remove that as well.

..unbolt it from the motor and pull it all apart.

You will need to roll the carpet back from over the shifters and remove the shifters from the T-case. You may want to remove the tranny tunnel panel to give you some more wiggle room. Remove the slave cylinder and shift fork. If your slave cylinder still has the handy rod strap, use it to hold the shaft out of the way when removing/installing it.
You will move the transmission straight back to get the input shaft off the flywheel and out of the clutch. Then lower it down.

> I guess I will be able to figure out how the clutch and flywheel come apart?

The pressure plate bolts to the flywheel and the clutch disk is in between the two.

> I'll have to drain the oil before I remove the flyhweel, right?

You do not have to do this.

should I plan on having it resurfaced and balance checked?

Always have the flywheel resurfaced when doing a clutch job. Also, have them remove the old pilot bearing and install the new one while they are at it.

> redo seal on adapter to keep oil, diesel etc, from dripping on my new clutch.

The tranny adaptor serves no sealing of oil, coolant, diesel. It's just there to adapt your tranny to the block. No need to remove it.

I might need an adjustable clutch rod to compensate for the new stuff. my slave cylinder has been creaking, thinking of replacing it too.

The hydraulic clutch system will adjust itself. If the slave is acting up.....now is a perfect time to replace it. I'd replace the master and hose as well, but that's just me. Bench bleed it with a buddy helping and then install the whole assembly. For me, I found that to be the easiest way.


It is not so bad, it just takes some time and patience and soon your clutch will look like this......

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Heath

 

[Agnem]

I'll add 2 things to that. Put some blocks under the rearmost edge of the oil pan to steady the engine and support any weight that you may cause. Additionally, I find it a good time to take the front seat out, and pull up and remove the carpet. You end up with a clean interior as a result, and it helps with the following.... Remove the stick (2 bolts), and consider removing the top cover of the trans. This really opens up the clearances and makes getting the transmission back on a whole lot easier. Make sure it is in neutral, and carefully lift the top cover streight up. There is a tang with a spring on it in there, and you don't want that to fall in. Cover the top with a rag from that point forward. Duct tape can hold it in place, and you should put tape around your U-joint caps after you have the driveshaft dropped.

 

[TWeatherford]

Well I'm getting geared up for everything. Got the bots and locknuts for the lucky mod, and some odds and ends ordered and should be waiting for me tomorrow morning at NAPA. Two places lined up for flywheel resurfacing, and a transmission jack to rent.

I have heard people say that when putting in a flyhweel, you should get the bolts from Ford because they have a special sealant on them to prevent an oil leak through the threads. I know they are expensive from Ford, what about just using some blue threadlocker and be done with it?

I hope it goes well. Never having done any of it will make it a definite learning curve. I've got three days before it starts cutting into my trip west, but if I get it done right it will be worth a longer wait.

 

[DeepRoots]

I have heard people say that when putting in a flyhweel, you should get the bolts from Ford because they have a special sealant on them to prevent an oil leak through the threads. I know they are expensive from Ford, what about just using some blue threadlocker and be done with it?

huh? really... when I swapped in the zf, I didn't use anything, and it seemed allright, haven't lost any oil.

Drew

 

[RLDSL]

If your old bolts are still there, and intact, just use some blue locktite on them . You need to seal them as the holes are open to the crankcase and oil will seep eventually.

If you need new bolts, most folks here get real **** about getting the dealer bolts, but when I went to the dealer to buy bolts, I was told that they buy ALL of their flywheel bolts at Fastenal.., until I got him on the page so I could get the length for the SMF bolts and he saw that they could charge $14 each for them, then all the sudden he was hiding the screen and trying to sell me a set of bolts
I went to Fastenal and got a set of grade 8 bolts. I would not use hardware store bolts ( i.e. kung fu manufacture ), but the Fastenal grade 8 bolts are US made and properly speced and tested.
Same goes for the pressure plate bolts. those are obsolete from ford.

 

[TWeatherford]

Well got started and feel like things went pretty well. Here's my progress after 2 hours. Thanks for the advice so far, very helpful. Good to know I don't need to spend $14 or something a bolt for bolts I already have.

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Should be all set for progress tomorrow. I'm still a bit unsure as to how to remove the driveshafts. I have U bolts on the one between the transfer case and front axle. The U bolt that attaches on the transfer case end is a freaky looking star shaped deal, but the ubolt where it attaches to the front axle looks to have standard nuts on it, so I'll probably just leave it attached to the transfer case. Now for the main driveshaft, do I need to compress the little clip deal and punch out the middle? I looked and looked and there's nothing else I can see to remove. I just don't want to mess stuff up.

Upon my inspection tonight, it looks like I have an oil leak that might be contributing to my slipping feeling. Some oil, really a very small amount, dripped onto my exhaust right next to the flywheel, and I can see where its been dripping down past the slave cylinder too. It never drips on the ground and I never have had to add, but I'm thinking I'll see if I can track it down. Maybe its the driver side valve cover, but otherwise hopefully some Auto-RX will help me out.

 

[RLDSL]

That star headed bolt takes a torx bit socket, t47 long ( dang it, I wish I'd known you needed it, I'd have sent one ) Get a good one or it'll strip. Snap on has them. They usually keep them on the truck
You may be able to get a long bit a little cheaper than the complete bit socket, so long as you know you have a socket that will fit the bit.

I bet youll find some of that oil / fuel residue has found it's way down there via the space in between the adapter plate and the engine. That's why it's a good idea to put a bead of sealant in between there just for giggles. That way that seam sheds any liquids that find their way to the back of the block instead of letting them drip down into the flywheel area.

 

[Agnem]

Your main drive shaft should also have U-joint caps, just like you found on the front drive shaft at both ends. If your not seeing them, perhaps it is possible that they are covered with grease and dirt. If they are clean, and you still dont see anything, post a picture. Only some 2WD trucks would have a slip yoke in the tailshaft, and those I have never seen on a 4X4.

 

[TWeatherford]

Sounds like I might have something weird here.

This is just behind (toward the rear wheels of the truck) the transfer case. I have an identical one just behind the driveshaft carrier bearing (if thats what its called).

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This is what I have where the driveshaft attaches to the rear axle. If I have to take it off I will use the tool RLDSL suggested.

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And this is what I have just forward of the transfer case. I had a normal 1/2 inch nuts on the ubolts where it attaches to the front axle, so I have that removed, taped up and all. Removed the transmission cross member so I should be able to drop the whole transfer case outta there without taking both ends apart.

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[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

The front shaft has the cardan joint. 12 pt socket will get those 4 bolts off to remove the driveshaft.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but you have a crew cab, so even on a 4x4, there will be a slip shaft for the rear driveshaft as it is supported by a carrier bearing.
Remove the retainer caps at the rear axle, then remove the 2 bolts retaining the carrier bearing. The driveshaft will slide out of the t-case at that point.

 

[Agnem]

Ooo... funky. Never seen that before, but that was the only possibility I could come up with. We just needed the picture of that slip yoke to be sure. Be advised, that depending on how full your transmission is, and any downward (nose up) angle you may have, you may get some ATF running out of that after you pull the slip yoke out.

 

[TWeatherford]

Yeah I was ready for the ATF, only a few drips came out. Once Dad got home with some new Torx sockets I was able to drop the whole driveshaft. Got the transfer case off, as well as the transmission and flywheel. Got everything pulled apart, now I gotta see if I can get it back together right. I'm very comfortable now with the Lucky Mod, it looks like a very sensible, low risk modification. A few questions:

My old clutch looks pretty good to me. It is a 12". The new one is an 11". I don't think this should be any problem, right? This is the old one:

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Here is the new on the flywheel:

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My flywheel surface looks awfully good. Its glass smooth when I run my fingers across it. I'm thinking of saving myself the time and my $75 and just skip resurfacing. Any thoughts?

Another thing is my new pressure plate doesn't exactly match the flywheel. The flyhweel has two dowels that stick up to help align everything. I think I'm going to just bolt the two pressure plates together, make sure all the important holes line up, and then just drill the dowel holes through.

When I put the grade 8 bolts in, I was thinking of having the nuts on the transmission end. Does it really matter?

Thanks so much for all the help, I'm really pleased with how its going.

 

[RLDSL]

Ouch, a 12" dmf, Do the bolt holes for the new pressure plate match up. If not, you'd have to drill and tap some new holes for it.
It would be worth it in the long run since you have it apart. That kevlar lining will way outlast the other and combined with the lucky mod , it will be a long time before you have to go in there again, besides, you cant use a springless disc with the lucky mod . You trfy to use a springless disc with a solid flywheel and something is going to give and it won't be pleasant.

 

[MUDKICKR]

do you really have to use a spring clutch disc with the lucky mod? has anyone tried it with out a spring clutch disc? also if it is required what is the part number of just the clutch disc?