Clutch experts! Need opinion!

unclehoser

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2002 F250 SD, 7.3 Powerstroke, 6-speed ZF:

It's been a while since I was here, but it looks like all the gang is still hangin' out! Good to know!

My clutch has been getting progressively weird...It doesn't slip, but in order to get it to release, I practically have to put my foot through the floorboards. When I start to let it out again, it seems to want to catch just a fraction of an inch above the floor. It's getting harder to put into gear at a stop because of this, and it's getting hard to put it in reverse after coming to a stop.

I don't suspect the hydraulics, since I check the master cylinder level on a regular basis and I'm not losing fluid. The clutch pedal linkage has the Heim joint mod, done by the previous owner, I believe.

Bottom line, guys...Do I need to do a complete clutch job? Seems that if it's a pilot or throwout bearing problem, I might as well just get it all done while it's opened up. If any one has another opinion or suggestion, I'd love to hear it! It's an expensive job, at least labor-wise around here.

One more question: Any opinions on the LuK complete upgrade kit with the aftermarket flywheel, etc.? Any answers appreciated! Thanks...
Dave
 

pelky350

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My luk clutch is doing great on my 7.3 idi, but your symptoms sound very typical of a worn out clutch in need of replacement. How old is it?
 

Skidtech

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As a tech I only install luk on fords. Other clutches work but for some reason fords really like luk.

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unclehoser

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My luk clutch is doing great on my 7.3 idi, but your symptoms sound very typical of a worn out clutch in need of replacement. How old is it?

Unsure of the age. I bought the truck with 204 K on the odometer, and now it's at 217 K. I don't have any idea how long they last, since this is the first one I've owned!

Forgot to mention in the original post that it gets worse as the outside temperature rises...and it's been well over 100 here lately in the AZ desert!
 

Skidtech

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You should get someone to push on the clutch while you watch the slave on the drivers side of tranny and see how far it moves when the clutch is depressed and how far down the pedal goes before it starts to move.

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unclehoser

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You should get someone to push on the clutch while you watch the slave on the drivers side of tranny and see how far it moves when the clutch is depressed and how far down the pedal goes before it starts to move.

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I had considered that, but I imagine I'd need some sort of benchmark as to how far it's SUPPOSED to move! Any advice? Thanks in advance...It might be a while before I get back to the computer...BBQing goin' on! Baby back ribs...<DROOL>
 

Skidtech

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Well it should start to move almost immediately when you touch the pedal and if memory serves, it should move about an inch. If it's moving like it should, it is likely one of 3 things. Worn out pivot, worn out shift fork, or worn out clutch. If it doesn't move like it should, make sure you check out the bushings for the pedal assembly cuz they go bad a lot. Otherwise you have it narrowed down to either bad master cyl or bad slave and if that's the case I would recommend replacement as a set. If it winds up being a master or a slave let me know before you replace cuz I have some tricks for bleeding them.

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79jasper

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Honestly, that's more than likely a hydraulic problem.
Just because fluid level is okay, doesn't mean much. Pull some out with a Turkey baster and put it in a clear container. How's it look?
Similar to brake fluid, clutch fluid does occasionally need flushing. But almost mo one ever does it.
Also, have someone push the clutch while you look at the fork. See how far it moves.
The other bushings in the pedal assembly can wear as well.
While they are very similar, I would like to point out to everyone that this is a 02 7.3 powerstroke with a 6 speed.

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unclehoser

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Honestly, that's more than likely a hydraulic problem.
Just because fluid level is okay, doesn't mean much. Pull some out with a Turkey baster and put it in a clear container. How's it look?
Similar to brake fluid, clutch fluid does occasionally need flushing. But almost mo one ever does it.
Also, have someone push the clutch while you look at the fork. See how far it moves.
The other bushings in the pedal assembly can wear as well.
While they are very similar, I would like to point out to everyone that this is a 02 7.3 powerstroke with a 6 speed.

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Thanks for jumpin' in there, you've given me some great advice in the past! The fluid looks fine, clear as a bell, and not losing any as far as I can see.

This thing has acted the same since I bought it in January, 2017, but not nearly as noticeable. It's just getting to the point where it's really annoying! Like I stated earlier, it seems to get worse as temps rise, and we've seen 105-107 degrees this past month with more heat to follow!

I'm going to try checking out the hydraulics as recommended previously, and work from there. Back to the BBQ...
 

greenskeeper

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I forget what years had the poorly designed clutch fork...if you've got the faulty one it could be bent to where the clutch isn't moving properly. There's a measurement you can take with the slave cylinder out to see if it is bent, should measure around 2.5" if I recall correctly.

Also a complete pre-bled hydraulic assembly is only $67, and it has ALUMINUM cylinders, not that crappy plastic that ford threw in there.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/b...utch+master+and+slave+cylinder+assembly,10290
 

jwalterus

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I'd say it's going to end up being either your hydraulics or the throwout arm is bent.
It's not moving enough to disengage your clutch properly.
My guess is the master/slave combination, I'd try bleeding it first.
 

unclehoser

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Thanks, guys, for all the advice! It's been a busy weekend (3-day...yeah!) but as soon as time allows I'm planning to look at the hydraulics. It's a tight squeeze to crawl under that thing with the running boards and front cowl, and I don't trust jackstands on the EXTREMELY heavy front end. If that sucker decides to come down, I'm a dead man! Need to do that early morning sometime, since past about 10:00 it's getting mighty warm, and I need to recruit the girfriend to stomp the clutch while I'm under there (if her tiny little 5'-2" butt can handle it!).

I did do some research on common problems with the year, and, yes, the clutch release lever has a history of being a pos from the factory. They bend and sometimes even break. Upgraded units are out there on the aftermarket for under $50, so if everything checks out after bleeding the hydraulics, I'll have it replaced, along with at least new throwout and pilot bearings, and have the clutch & flywheel inspected. If all new parts are necessary, I'll just bite the bullet and go for it. I don't know what shape the clutch is in, but it doesn't slip and seems to be really strong. You can kill the engine dead from about 1500 RPM letting it out.

30 years ago I may have attempted it in the driveway, but I just can't seem to do that kind of thing any more on my back, especially with a 235-pound tranny and Harbor Freight jackstands (not to mention 111 degree heat)! I'll pay some fool with a lift to get under there and save myself a lot of pain (and risk).



Thanks, all, once again. It might be awhile before I can get to all this, but I'll let you know how it works out. Right now, it's still driveable!

Cheers!
Dave
 

greenskeeper

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Bleeding isn't going to solve anything, there's no reason for air to have gotten into the system unless something has failed.

The steps I'd take are:

1) measure the distance from the slave cylinder opening to the clutch fork

if within spec

2) order complete clutch hydraulic assembly

I'd wager it's one of those two issues, hopefully for you it's just the $70 hydraulic setup and not the clutch fork
 

unclehoser

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Bleeding isn't going to solve anything, there's no reason for air to have gotten into the system unless something has failed.

The steps I'd take are:

1) measure the distance from the slave cylinder opening to the clutch fork

if within spec

2) order complete clutch hydraulic assembly

I'd wager it's one of those two issues, hopefully for you it's just the $70 hydraulic setup and not the clutch fork

I'm hoping so, too! Problem: as much as I've searched, even in the factory service manual, I can't find that spec for slave cylinder opening to clutch fork! Any clues?

As always, thanks in advance!

Dave
 

IDI87

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I've got the same problem with the truck I got yesterday. But I think mine comes from the shop not bleeding it correctly. Everything was replaced about 4 months ago by the previous owner.
 

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