changed fuel filter now truck wont start.

gandalf

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Yes, that's the drain. Whether the leak can be fixed/stopped now depends on how they made it. While you have that thing off look to see where the seal is. Play with it a bit to see whether it can be sealed, even with that part broken. I would guess, though, that you're probably going to have to find a new unit. I'd go to your local Pick and Pull for something like that. Or, somebody here might have a spare they'd be willing to part with.
 

theguruat12

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I'm actually not sure about that. I BELIEVE that the valve is integral with the bowl, the only separate part if memoury serves right is the water in fuel sensor that screws in. So, yes, I THINK it is an all-or-nothing deal as far as buying the valve separately.

It looks like this fellow sells the bowl, the price is pretty steep, you'd have to email him to make sure it's the same bowl: http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/filter.htm
 
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Pick up the fuel filter that eliminates the bottom cast piece (either the one that is threaded for the sensor or not, your choice), and call it done. Napa sells them, as does anyone who sells WIX filters.

Mike
 

94250turbo

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Pick up the fuel filter that eliminates the bottom cast piece (either the one that is threaded for the sensor or not, your choice), and call it done. Napa sells them, as does anyone who sells WIX filters.
Mike

If I do that would there be any downfall to not having the bottom part? Could you possibly get me a napa part# thanks man.
 

94250turbo

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For future reference when I want to bleed the system do I use the shrader valve on the bottom of the filter housing or the tire looking valve near the top of the filter?
 
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Wix 33617. I think for napa you add another 3 in front. 33417 has no sensor port. 33617 does have it


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Yep. Been running the 'no sensor' option on mine for over a year. No issues, though I think next time I'll pony up for the one that takes the sensor.

Mike
 

kc0stp

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For future reference when I want to bleed the system do I use the shrader valve on the bottom of the filter housing or the tire looking valve near the top of the filter?

The tire looking valve near the top IS the Schrader valve, the one on the bottom is just a drain port.
 

94250turbo

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I got my truck on the battery charger right now. All the cranking before I found out my drain valve was broke killed the batteries. It seems like its taking forever to charge too. Anyway all the cranking I was doing while the filter *** draining itself (which I didn't know at the time) will this make the truck really hard to start now because the filter drained itself? Will I have to do a bunch more cranking over?
 

theguruat12

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Yep. You have to fill the fuel filter again. Do yourself a favor and install an electric lift pump. There's a great thread on it in the tech section and it's fairly inexpensive. Really saves the load on your batteries and starter.
 

94250turbo

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Yep. You have to fill the fuel filter again. Do yourself a favor and install an electric lift pump. There's a great thread on it in the tech section and it's fairly inexpensive. Really saves the load on your batteries and starter.

Yea I already filled it and everything is ready to go except the batteries. Sucks to think im gonna have to crank the crap out of it again lol.
 

theguruat12

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Yea I already filled it and everything is ready to go except the batteries. Sucks to think im gonna have to crank the crap out of it again lol.

If it's filled you might get lucky. I know for mine before I installed my electric pump I only had to crank for maybe 15 seconds before it caught, provided I had no air intrusion. With the air intrusion it was a different matter....
 

94250turbo

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Apparently my batteries are toast I let it charge over night and was only able to get it to crank over a couple times before the battery was dead. I don't understand how this could happen because they were fine before I drained them.
 

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